Posting this across a couple of forums hoping to get some quick and good advice:

Okay so I have been playing with a scratchbuilt cab on a Bachmann Mike to do a freelanced back date on it. I have now made 2 attempts to apply an .015 wrap of styrene that I studiously embossed with rivets. The initial application looks good but after a few minutes the solvent cement starts to attack the .015 causing wrinkles and bubbles. Second attempt I used less solvent but with the same result. I was using Testors liquid cement as in my experience it tends to be the least potent of the ones I have worked with (plastructs and ambroid being the other liquids I generally use).

I have now had to re-sand the roof of my cab twice and I am not sure if my nerves or the cab roof will take another failed application. I know some of you apply styrene wraps to scratch built tenders with success so what am I doing wrong? the cab took a few hours of messing to get the roof line right and it looks amazing except for the missing rivet details.....

I do not want to give up on this!

HELP!

I have done the same, and have had the same issues. I don't remember what thickness styrene I used, but I recall using testors liquid cement (in the square bottle), putting a few drops on, and then spreading it out to a thin layer before applying the overlay. In some cases, it did not hold the overlay real tight and I had to re-glue the corners, using small drops of glue applied with a straight pin. The trick I found to keep it from warping is to use the glue sparingly, and spread it thin before applying the overlay. It still warped some, and like you I had to redo some areas. The styrene does not take rivets nearly as well as thin brass, so next time i do something like this, I may do a brass overlay and secure it to the body with CA or some kind of contact cement. In the water car below, the overlay is all styrene, except the corners, which are brass.

nice work Kevin. On my second attempt I did much as you outlined and had adhesion problems around the edges. I went back and carefully wicked in more cement and the edges started to deform about 10 minutes later. Starting to think I may have to go with Archer textured rivet decals.... but I have to beleive I can do this as others have before me. What glue did you use for your wrap?

bob_suruncle Wrote:nice work Kevin. On my second attempt I did much as you outlined and had adhesion problems around the edges. I went back and carefully wicked in more cement and the edges started to deform about 10 minutes later. Starting to think I may have to go with Archer textured rivet decals.... but I have to beleive I can do this as others have before me. What glue did you use for your wrap?

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I always use a testors (model master?) glue that comes in a squarish bottle with a thin metal spout coming out of one corner. It isn't water thin, and it isn't gel either. Doctor Wayne uses laquer thinner applied with a small brush. I have never heard of the Archer rivet decals, but embossing all those rivets can be a PITA - especially when you are almost done and mess one up and have to start over

Here is the link Kevin: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html">http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html</a><!-- m -->

They look really nice but Like I said the Archer rivets are a last resort for me.... If others can do the lamination wrap then so can I.

Interesting. I may try those rivet decals next time. Kinda pricy, though!

I think I would try the thin brass shim stock as Nachoman suggested.

the best I've done is by using acrylic medium as a adhesive, thin coat on both over lay and base material hold tight by wrapping item unless flat then just laid book on it . i used a air brush for application.
Jim

How about Super Glue? The gel, not the liquid.
When I did the GERN Flux Roaster, I used the gel type CA glue, to encase the printer cartridges in .020" styrene.

eightyeightfan1 Wrote:How about Super Glue? The gel, not the liquid.
When I did the GERN Flux Roaster, I used the gel type CA glue, to encase the printer cartridges in .020" styrene.

That is a good suggestion. My experience with super glues is that after a few years, the bonds lose strength. On a surface that has a large area (such as a rivet overlay) this may not be an issue. But, if you are going to go the super glue route, you might as well use thin brass for the overlay. Brass makes cleaner rivets and is thinner. Gluing thin brass to plastic with super glue would be no less strong than gluing plastic to plastic

The problem with liquid cement for thin styrene overlays, is that it can't evaporate quickly enough, and has a much longer time to "act" on the sheet.
The major problem I had was the liquid cement would cause the rivets to "melt back into the sheet". Adding body putty to the back of the punched rivets stopped that from happening.
I'm thinking that clamping the "rivet sheet" in place, and applying liquid cement, sparingly, along the edges might be the better way to go.

When I added a riveted overlay on the tender of Beeg Boy, I used .010" styrene, and, as Kevin mentioned, used lacquer thinner to cement it in place. Using a suitably-sized brush, I applied a light coat of thinner to the rivet overlay, and a slightly heavier coat to the surface to which it was to be attached. Let it sit for a few seconds to allow the plastic to soften somewhat and to allow the excess solvent to evaporate, then position the overlay where you want it, starting at one end and pressing it into place as you work out any entrapped air bubbles. There should be no need to clamp it.
While ca will also hold it in place, I find that the solvent bond is much stronger and is unlikely to ever fail, whereas ca seems to deteriorate over time. You could also use contact cement, although you'd need to get the applications very thin and very even. Be sure to allow the full time indicated on the instructions before applying the overlay, as this allows the excess solvents to evaporate fully. Bonding, of course, is instant, and there's no way to remove or re-position the overlay without destroying it.
If you're unsure about the lacquer thinner technique, make up a small piece of riveted overlay and apply it to a piece of heavier styrene - this will help you to see how much to apply so that the thinner doesn't continue to "work" after the sheet is applied, and yet remains wet enough for an effective bond.

Wayne

Success!! It would seem I was using too much cement. I was advised to use a soft paintbrush rather than the brush in the testors bottle and it worked! I was able to apply the roof wrap and then got all ambitious and applied the laminations to the sides of the cab as well and then the smoke deflector. Didnt have time to set up proper lighting but here is the progress shot. Now I just have to frame up the windows and add some trim

Crap... image was too big... we really should have that looked at.

Nice work!

Quote:It would seem I was using too much cement.

That, would definitely cause the problem you first described!
The final results look good!