Full Version: Sumpter 250's 2014 Summer Scratchbuild Challenge
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Tyson Rayles Wrote:Just how big are HO scale lobster anyway? Misngth
The carapace length is measured from the rear of the eye socket to the rear of the carapace on a line parallel to the center line of the bodyshell . Currently that minimum length ( in the State of Maine ) is 3-1/4" ( The carapace, is the main body, and does not include the tail ) The maximum legal length is 5", so the overall length, tip of the tail to tips of the claws, would be between about 11"-13"...... or, in HO scale, .126"- 1.49" ( 1/8" - 3/32" approximately )
[attachment=18140] The Carapace cannot be shorter than the opening in that "gage"

I hadn't done that research yet, so glad you asked, now I know just what size "holes" the Tulle needs to have, to adequately contain / retain an HO scale Lobster Wink Icon_lol 357 357 357 357 For me, at least, a lot of the fun of building models is "doing the research".
Had to do some serious "looking" through the "stash", but found some Tulle That should be perfect for the netting, as it appears to have been made in a diagonal pattern, with about a scale 3" wide opening.
"Love it when a plan comes together" Wink Big Grin Big Grin
Here's a shot of the "Lobster-man's" shack, dock, sloop, and some lobster pots ( traps ), with the Lobster Fisherman himself, standing on the dock. At the end of a day's fishing, the live lobster are transferred from a "wet tank" on the sloop, to the pound.
I'm "of the intention" that when the pound build is finished, I'll start rigging the sloop.
[attachment=18150]
Right behind the "young lady", waving from the bow of that passing boat, at the end of that dock, I'll rig a vertical ladder down, into the water, that will provide access to the floating "Pound".

AF350 wrote " As far as netting, If you have the patience and the time maybe a scratch build item Icon_lol Only half joking as I may have an idea how to pull that off with some long track nails, some brownish tan thread and a scrap of wood "
Compared the Tulle I found in my "stash" with the "surgical silk thread" I use for standing rigging on ship models. The smallest diameter Thread I have is 6-0 Deknatel, and even that is too "heavy"....and.... would make some "rather large" knots.
Looks like, for better or for worse, the Tulle is going to be what ends up being used.

Wishing to me much luck, Wink as needing it ?, I will :o Wink Big Grin
I have a DVD on British model railroads, one of the layouts is a sea side terminal and there is a structure whose sole purpose is to hang fishing nets to dry as the layout was set before man made materials were available.
Guess I shouldn't have worried about using the Tulle, it hardly shows in the photos:


[attachment=18200]The access ladder is in place, and the "Pound", is done, and glued down.


[attachment=18199]The trees and bridges in the background are my "old" three module set.
The "hole" if the face panel is for the "Standoff" that holds the " Don't come any closer rope "


[attachment=18198]This overhead shot shows the whole "Lobsterman's Complex".
One last major thing to finish here - - - rigging the Lobster Sloop !! ( I'll document the progress of that chore here, as a "Kit Bash Scratch Build continuation". )
The "Sloop" started out as a Lindberg "Brig Of War" kit. All that remains of the original kit is the hull ( modified ), and cut off at the waterline. Everything else seen on the sloop is scratch built.
CONTIUNATION: Lobster sloop:
Rigged the Bobstay ( end of bowsprit to the stem just above the waterline ), the Fore stay, main sheet, and Topping Lift ( end of main boom, through block on the main mast, and down to a belaying pin on the port rail ).
Cut, furled, and installed jib, and mainsail. Need to install one more block for the throat halliard, and then that, and the peak halliard can be rigged.
While it is hard to see in this photo, the jib, and mainsail were cut from a single ply of facial tissue. The 'sails' were sprayed with water, and then a steel ruler was used to 'furl" them, starting at the bottom of the sail, and moving the ruler up in a direction opposite to that of the sail being lowered. After the main was attached to the boom, and the jib laid in on bowsprit, both got a soaking of water/white glue mix, and left to harden.
[attachment=18255] This sloop is 56' sparred length ( tip of bowsprit to the end of the main boom ) About 8-3/4".
Everything is looking good Pete, but I can't figure out how to tell if those boats are narrow or standard gauge. Eek
Tyson Rayles Wrote:Everything is looking good Pete, but I can't figure out how to tell if those boats are narrow or standard gauge. Eek

Icon_lol Icon_lol Icon_lol Icon_lol Icon_lol Icon_lol Icon_lol Icon_lol

To the best of my knowledge.......the only "narrow gauge BOAT" is a "racing shell", or a canoe. 357 357 357 357

Actually, most "work boats" are broad beamed enough to be called "Wide Gauge". Icon_twisted Icon_lol
Sumpter250 Wrote:...To the best of my knowledge.......the only "narrow gauge BOAT" is a "racing shell", or a canoe. 357 357 357 357

Actually, most "work boats" are broad beamed enough to be called "Wide Gauge". Icon_twisted Icon_lol

To the best of my knowledge, (I'm not that good in history 35 ), I would think some of those hollowed-out trees that some tribes used both here and abroad would qualify as narrow gauge. Getting a tree more than 3' in diameter would be hard to find, even back in those days. Icon_lol
BTW the tulle looks good and is very noticeable in the pics, how does it look in "real life" ?
Don, most of the "hollowed out trees" were probably wider that a racing shell.
Mike, The Tulle shows just a bit better in "real life".
This will be the last picture I'll post in this thread. It shows the finished lobster pound with the finished lobsterman's sloop.
[attachment=18327]
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