Full Version: Athearn SD40-2 conversion
You're currently viewing a stripped down version of our content. View the full version with proper formatting.
Pages: 1 2
I have just aquired the above loco and its not DCC friendly. It can be done I know,but i'd like to fit a more modern Mashima. There are kits available to do this, but are there any tips or wrinkles for the job?
Good luck on your project! Thumbsup
I'll be using an A-Line kit for the conversion and apparently it has a cradle for the motor to sit in. However,under the fuel tank are 4 white plugs. Are these what holds the Athearn motor in? Do I just pull the motor out or what. I read an earlier post about converting one these to DCC,but there didn't seem to be any reference to these plugs. Thank you.
Catweasel Wrote:I'll be using an A-Line kit for the conversion and apparently it has a cradle for the motor to sit in. However,under the fuel tank are 4 white plugs. Are these what holds the Athearn motor in? Do I just pull the motor out or what. I read an earlier post about converting one these to DCC,but there didn't seem to be any reference to these plugs. Thank you.

Where did you get the A-Line kit?
Catweasel Wrote:I'll be using an A-Line kit for the conversion and apparently it has a cradle for the motor to sit in. However,under the fuel tank are 4 white plugs. Are these what holds the Athearn motor in? Do I just pull the motor out or what. I read an earlier post about converting one these to DCC,but there didn't seem to be any reference to these plugs. Thank you.

Those "plugs" are just the retaining lugs of the two piece motor mounts.

Push them up through the holes with a blint tool.

You may wish to save them for another loco, they tend to crack wth age.

Dan M.
postman Wrote:
Catweasel Wrote:I'll be using an A-Line kit for the conversion and apparently it has a cradle for the motor to sit in. However,under the fuel tank are 4 white plugs. Are these what holds the Athearn motor in? Do I just pull the motor out or what. I read an earlier post about converting one these to DCC,but there didn't seem to be any reference to these plugs. Thank you.

Where did you get the A-Line kit?

I found the kit on a favourite auction site. .com, not .co.uk so it'll have to travel to get to me. Apparently it's new old stock.
Well, I've now got the SD402 stripped down,ready for the new parts to arrive. Only one of the trucks,in case things go pear shaped, I've got a reference to look at. New wheels (Athearn), new motor, and I'm going to hard wire the trucks so,in effect,I'll isolate the frame. I don't know how old this loco is, maybe someone on here can help? It's got plastic sideframes, I think iron wheels and no sign of any lighting being fitted. The body is held on by 4 pips on the frame Couplings are frame mounted. White rubber motor mounts.
Catweasel Wrote:Well, I've now got the SD402 stripped down,ready for the new parts to arrive. Only one of the trucks,in case things go pear shaped, I've got a reference to look at. New wheels (Athearn), new motor, and I'm going to hard wire the trucks so,in effect,I'll isolate the frame. I don't know how old this loco is, maybe someone on here can help? It's got plastic sideframes, I think iron wheels and no sign of any lighting being fitted. The body is held on by 4 pips on the frame Couplings are frame mounted. White rubber motor mounts.

For assembly diagrams and possible date clues try;

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://hoseeker.net/athearn.htm">http://hoseeker.net/athearn.htm</a><!-- m -->

I clip off the truck contacts at the 90 degree bend and use (flag type) spade connectors, which fit perfectly, so I can remove the trucks easily for servicing.

Dan M.
Thanks for that mate. I've actually got the parts sheet that came with the loco. Thanks for tip re. Connectors as well. I did intend to solder,but that would make maintenance easier.
Ok,

if you are going to work on an Athearn loco, I suggest have a read of this article, it will give you some additional tips etc to make the thing run better.

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.mcor-nmra.org/Publications/Articles/Athearn_TuneUp.php">http://www.mcor-nmra.org/Publications/A ... TuneUp.php</a><!-- m -->

There's more such pages is you surf around.

I've Done a similar conversion once with a GP38 locomotive.
Used a similar repowering kit. You might find issues fitting the flywheels etc onto the new motor shaft. I found that they were a little too loose fitting.
I solved that by carefully wrapping a little bit of electrical insulation tape on the motor shafts, adding a small drop of super glue, and then press the flywheels on.

The cradle I fitted with thin double sided tape, and the same for the motor to the cradle, that also works to isolate it from the frame, a must for DCC.

Some other generic tune ups can be found on youtube, for example this one. You don't have to do all of it, but it's just one other method.
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFxTNI-HILc">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFxTNI-HILc</a><!-- m -->

One remark, are you sure your SD40-2 is a 'bluebox', or is it a somewhat newer, but similar 'RTR' . The RTR can be recognised by plastic handrails, and it will also have 'normal' polished wheels. The older bluebook uses sintered wheels that are a bit grey in appearance, and will have metal wire handrails and stanchions. Other than that, the construction is similar to some of the RTD locomotives . (Newer RTR have even more enhancements under the hood).



Koos
Don't have the Athearn to hand, (it's in my room), but wheels definitely have a grey,grainy look to them. The motor was held in by white rubber plugs. Thanks for tip re. flywheels. I'll watch out for that. The kit at the moment is in the San Fransisco area according to the tracking. I'm looking forward to getting it up and running. Interesting tip there re. pickups. Although I'm changing the wheels, I think I'll take that one on board. Thanks.
Just got the A-line Re-powering kit for the SD40-2. Flywheels,as noted in a previous post by Torikoos, did slide on the motor shafts very easily. I would have preferred a slightly tighter fit, but a drop of Loctite 603 has secured them firmly. The motor is a little bit long for the frame it seems,but a touch of a grinding wheel should sort that out.I may remake the driveshafts as well. The wheels I've got (Athearn 40") drop straight into the trucks,but before I close them up I'll fit Phosphor bronze wipers. Shouldn't take too long to put it together. Once I've got it running on DC I'll then put a Loksound chip in it. My SD40-2 hasn't got lights fitted. I suspect the the prvious owner may have removed them. I want to fit LED's however. Can any one advise as to the best way to achieve this? Happy days.
Catweasel Wrote:Just got the A-line Re-powering kit for the SD40-2. Flywheels,as noted in a previous post by Torikoos, did slide on the motor shafts very easily. I would have preferred a slightly tighter fit, but a drop of Loctite 603 has secured them firmly. The motor is a little bit long for the frame it seems,but a touch of a grinding wheel should sort that out.I may remake the driveshafts as well. The wheels I've got (Athearn 40") drop straight into the trucks,but before I close them up I'll fit Phosphor bronze wipers. Shouldn't take too long to put it together. Once I've got it running on DC I'll then put a Loksound chip in it. My SD40-2 hasn't got lights fitted. I suspect the the prvious owner may have removed them. I want to fit LED's however. Can any one advise as to the best way to achieve this? Happy days.

Like projects like this. Any photos docummenting this build?
I'll see what I can do for you mate.
[Image: 005_zpsnj81ytf3.jpg]

This shows the area ground out to take the Mashima.

[Image: 002_zpso4ktf3gq.jpg]

Mashima sitting snugly down in the frame. I'm using servo tape to hold it in place
Hopefully,it will absorb some motor noise.

[Image: 004_zpssrsp3cwy.jpg]

The new wheels are on the left. Belts and braces, these will have the p/b wiper running
against the backs.

Quality of photo's isn't the best,for which I apologise.
Pages: 1 2