Hey all. Ive been out of the hobby for about 4 or 5 years now, and got bit hard by the bug again. Im wanting to get in to HO scale urban railroading, modelling the modern-era, and mostly small short-line railroading with a big focus on operations.

The thing is... Im not really sure where to start? Does anybody have some advice on where to start?

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Hello and welcome to the forum.
You haven't been out too long so things should not be changed much. What do you have for room to build? What do you still have from the last time you were in the hobby. Do you plan on DC or DCC. The group will need some iformation in order to guide you.

Regards
Charlie

Start by making a list of "Givens and Druthers". It is a John Armstrong concept that is useful in initial planning. Basically "givens" are things that either can't be changed or won't be changed, like room size or modeling scale (HO, N etc). Generally era ( 50's, 80's etc) and railroad (UP, ATSF, or freelance) are also considered givens. "Druthers" are a wishlist of items you would like to include like a particular industry, a location, or operating system (DC or DCC). There can be many others in both categories. Google "Givens and Druthers" and read some of the resulting pages. One of them is right here on this forum"

http://bigbluetrains.com/forum/viewtopic...f=46&t=468

Give us some additional information when you are done for more feedback from forum members.
Willie

exohead

Kalmbach published a book called "Building City Scenery" I cannot find it in their current listings but they are on Amazon and Ebay. The book is a little dated, but gives some good basic understanding of how to get the Urban look on layout.

In my opinion the ultimate city modeling is the Cities Edge layout by Vic Smith, it is more of a really large diorama, but has a lot of great modeling ideas.
http://www.gothamcitysub.com/pages/vic1.htm

So, after thinking a bit, here's what I came up with:

Givens:
- Must be free-standing, and cannot puncture the wall
- A separate island or anything with 360-degrees of access is absolutely not possible
- I can only reach 16-20" with the ability to actually do anything
- It needs to be put together in a way that it could be taken apart and moved if necessary, preferably in sections no longer than 4'.
- HO Scale
- Room dimensions are about 10x12. Of that, I have usable wall space of 10' x 12' x 2' that would be workable. I don't really have the ability to draw you a diagram, but it's a U-shaped space where the 12' side is the bottom part of the U. There is a window on one side that needs to have clearance for its curtain, as well as plastic for winterization (which means I need to be able to work around the layout to put the plastic up).
- Modern-era

Druthers:
- Small diesel switching engines. I have always liked seeing older industrial and switching engines soldiering on in the modern era, and there are a lot of really interesting little industrial diesels that would be a lot of fun to model.
- Urban setting, though not quite a city. Somewhere between suburb and city.
- Emphasis is closer to switching than it is to mainline running. If I had to pick, I'd pick switching.
- Emphasis is on track and operation, with the scene being realistic in the context of the trains.
- DCC would be preferred. My experience is with DC, but I never quite grew out of the single loop of track with some sidings stage and never quite grasped cap control concepts for straight DC, so DCC would probably be the better way to go.
- I much prefer smaller industries with a variety of traffic.

Charlie, to answer your questions, I really don't have any idea what all I still have, since most of my belongings are currently with my parents, which is a long drive away.

mountaingoatgreg, I do in fact have that book! I recently bought it on Amazon and it came. It's a fantastic one (I have a second copy, still packed up at my parents'). I've gotten a lot of interesting ideas from it so far. I really like his Union Freight layout module. I was also a big fan of MR's Beer Line project layout, and always dreamed of being able to build a line similar to it when I was a kid.

Welcome.



Looks like you're off to a good start. Two parts that I noticed right off the bat is 1. You'll need a budget, 2. Do you want to model something local.

Tomustang,

Yeah, Im working on the budget. For now Im just working on re-polishing old skills.

I dont really mind one way or the other as far as how local it is to me. I definitely want to model the midwest, though.

to Big Blue
From your list of "Givens", Modular would be the best way to go 48" X 20" (( 48" X 24" if you could stretch your reach just a bit )) modules, Perhaps a major rail line at one end, to pick up "inbound", and drop off "outbound" traffic.
The modules could have their own "legs", or, they could rest on an open bench-work, base.
I belong to a modular group, and my modules use a "simple open bench-work", that consists of four 6', " 2X4 I beams" ( 1" X 2" top and bottom, with a 4" vertical web made of 1/4" plywood, ), and four leg assemblies that the I beams bolt to.
It had to be portable.[attachment=24427]
The "curtain" hides the bench-work, but you can see the bottoms of the leg assemblies, with the "Leveling adjustment bolts".
not all floors are level and even. The beauty of this "Bench-work/leg assembly" is that it can be moved to a new location, adjusted to "level", and the modules, just sit on top...........easily moved, and readjusted for the new environment. :mrgreen:
The module behind the center one has its own leg assemblies. These are 2" X 2" , 34" long, the bench-work legs are 30"long.
I used the bench-work, to reduce from eight, to six, leg assemblies....two less things to carry the I beams have "joiner plates' that bolt two each, of the four I beams, together at the webs, to make the 12' long base.
The modules are clamped together, where their ends meet.
This shot, taken at the last train show, clearly shows the I beams and their "joiner plates"
[attachment=24426]
The "Three" have a trailer that they transport in, the center "back module" goes in the car.

That looks really good! Do you happen to have a diagram on the style of benchwork you used for that? That definitely might be the best way for me to do this.

I actually just picked up a structure kit, some tools and paints, and stuff to put it together today so I have something to do. I'll definitely take some pictures of it, then!

exohead Wrote:I actually just picked up a structure kit, some tools and paints, and stuff to put it together today so I have something to do. I'll definitely take some pictures of it, then!

Woopie. A start has been made. The threshold has been crossed. Keep us posted on your progress.
There are some youtube movies on building modules. you might check them out for tips. There might even be a modular club in your area that you would be interested in. You are now good to go.
Charlie

exohead Wrote:Do you happen to have a diagram on the style of benchwork you used for that? That definitely might be the best way for me to do this.

I do not have a diagram, or clear photos, of the bare module frames, so........
The basic frame, or "foundation" is built with 1" X 2" pine:
2 pieces 46" long, for the front and back.
5 pieces, two 30" for the ends, and three at 28" to go between the front and back ( the 48" X 30" is the "outside dimensions of my finished module frames )
Because I set up with a modular group, I have to have the End / Divider,and Back, Boards ( these are cut from 1/2" plywood if you use these, the front and back 1" x 2" boards, are cut to 47", and they sit between the plywood end boards), where my set mates with another's. For a home layout you could treat the end boards as you choose.
The 5 Pieces / or 3, and two end boards provide footing for the risers that carry the sub-roadbed for the track. The risers and end boards can be built in different heights, if you want grades, again, because I had to comply with the group specs,
I have no grades, but you can simply use varying height risers to create them.
The End Boards can also protect your scenery at the module ends, and provide a solid support and perfect height alignment with the next module's scenery. The scenery itself starts with Aluminum Gutter Screen, stapled to End Boards, and /or "profile Boards". The screen is heavy enough to hold its shape well, so you can form your "terrain" with it, and then cover it with paper towels, dunked in plaster. once dry, additional plaster can be brushed on, or built up to create rock formations. Additional supports can be built into the frame, to provide a foundation for bridge abutments.
where building are intended to be, support "tables" can be attached to the module frame. I have found that the gutter screen, with the hardened plaster, makes a solid enough foundation for most any building, but, flat and level is better done with a support table added , and the screen cut out where the "table " surface is.
Hope that helps.

The local modular club builds 2'x4' (mostly) with some 2x6, as well as odd sizes and bridges and duck-unders.

Modules are mostly built according to member "Railway Bob's" method:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://railwaybobsmodulebuildingtips.blogspot.ca/2010/01/how-i-build-my-model-railroad-modules.html">http://railwaybobsmodulebuildingtips.bl ... dules.html</a><!-- m -->

You can alter this method to use 1/2" ply cut into strips, or to have the legs permanently attached, a narrower or wider size, etc, etc. For example, if you run across in front of the window, you might want to make a module that can easily be taken out to install winterizing film, and which will leave enough room for curtains to hang properly.

The photo gallery at <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.hotrak.ca">http://www.hotrak.ca</a><!-- m --> will show you what's possible in this sort of real estate. Of course if this is going to stay at home, then the standards to make them connect to any other module can be disregarded.

Andrew

Thank you all so much for the help. I looked at some of the links for the modular stuff and I think that will definitely work the best for me. I think the next step, other than working on small projects, will be to come up with a layout plan and start looking around for something. I poked around and remembered MR's Beer Line project layout from '09 that would actually fit my available space perfectly. I'm not personally a Milwaukee modeller, but I think I would be able to make something usable out of it if I used that track plan.

The Union Freight module design in "Building City Scenery" would be a pretty good place to start, too.