Full Version: Getting Narrow M... ähh... Gauged
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Another project that will make a great addition to your stable. I really enjoy your work.

i started disassembling the loco:
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Motor was removed and i found more oddities. Eek
- bevelled soldered trailing truck
- dubious looking solder points between main frame and rear frame extension
- on certain places blobs of tin-solder
- on other places nearly the absence thereof

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A look inside the boilershell. Here too erratic allocation of tin-solder. Note the fissure between cab front and sidewall. Nope 

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This is the brand label.
Note cracks on the soldering joints between rear transverse and cab floor (or the wimpy rest thereof) Crazy

Welcome Band
To another brass hardship case.
This is only for Dickbrettbohrer.


after a careful examination i figured out here is nothing done with some bending to straighten out the cab.
So the decision fell to remove the cab and retrotfit iit straight.

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First the injectors on both sides were removed. 
The cab is partly submerged under water for cooling purposes while soldering with a torch. A delicate affair to unsolder only those soldering joints you want and leave the rest intact.

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Then the firebox sides and the partial cab floor on both sides were unsoldered.

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At least the cab was separated from the boilershell. Some collateral damage during the brass butchering was unavoidable.


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The separated parts from another angle of view.

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Now i can start the rebuilding process. At first the cab floor was resoldered straight and angular (this was a one of the colateral damages).
Halfway submerged for cooling the soldering points which should not be unsoldered.

That half-way submerged option is a useful technique for soldering (or unsoldering) joints when using a torch, as brass can transfer heat quite quickly.

When I built this cast brass cab, from Kemtron, I tinned all of the mating surfaces, then assembled it by wrapping soft iron wire around it to hold it together.
I then used a plumber's propane-type torch to heat all of the joints, in-turn, then, once it had cooled, removed the wire.  The cab roof was not soldered in place, but was modified to snap into place, to allow access for adding window "glass", or maybe a couple of plastic crew members....



now the rebuilding process can be started:

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At first all remains of the old soldering tin were removed by the means of a fast rotating silicone grinding wheel. The excessive soldering blobs inside the boiler too.
First attempts to fit the cab onto the boiler square failed. Usually the front wall of the cab will slide over the boiler jacket. This could be done here only under severe pressure and then there was great danger the cab tilted forward. If forced to the proper square seat, the whole shell becomes too short. Nope
Then the task of a root cause analysis why cab and shell can't be fitted fitted angular together.
At least boiler and cab were fitting best together when they were placed edge-to-edge. But this allows only for a fragile soldering joint Waiting 

Thinking ... Huh

Then Icon_idea :
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A auxilary device by the means of a piece of brass sheet. This allows the placing edge-to-edge and also enables a strong soldering connection.

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The rear transverse traverse was fitted properly and square.

At least the wages of fear a'ka (Le Salaire de la peur; French Film 1953):
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Ultimately the cab sits square!

I can't put into words how impressive this is. I wish I could speak your language so nothing would be lost in the translation. Really a wonderful job. 
I agree with Charlie...that's some  great work, Lutz, and your solution for attaching the cab solidly is what I would have envisioned, too.  Nice neat work. Worship Worship Worship 


as the shell of the loco is square now, let's re-attach the details:

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I made a new tube out of 0.8mm brass wire for the compressor as the old one was too short.
- The governor was carefully drilled out for the new diameter and fitted.
- The generator was freed from the sprue and remounted. (They pinched the sprue only coarse and did not neaten the cut)
- starter valve reattached
- Injector and feedwater tubes soldered, this time straight and angular

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- starter valve on engineer's side remounted; here it is still askew and has to be squared out
- New tubes under the running board made out of 0.5mm brass wire (the old ones were worn out)
- remounting of the injector here too

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A look into the hollow nothing.

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At least the question for an replacement motor.
- The black can motor is a China made coreless coil motor
- The silver one is also China made and of the hyped square type of automotive origin.

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At first i demounted the running gear.
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it is time to write this thread a little further. Fortunately Don and the admins were able to eliminate the signs.
The running gear was stripped down to the bare frame nearly:

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A little big killjoy in the terms of a bent crosshead guide is visible now. This causes irregular running and because it is not directly visible you are searching a long time until: Curse

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And of course pilot and cow catcher were bent down. The usually suspects.

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With big carefulness the cowcatcher and Pilot were straightened. The cow catcher is made old school manner out of many individual parts. So soldering here is not an option until absolute necessary because it is broken.

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At the rear end there were cracks in the soldered joints between the rearmost transverse traverse. This was resoldered with a torch.


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Fitted new softer springs from NWSL.

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The gearbox get it's torque lever.
Then i reassembled the running gear and tested it by pushing onto a glass plate and track. It was running smooth without any binds.

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The other end of the lever was attached here. Drill and tap and the screw.

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The new motor was fixed by glueing into place. Universals by NWSL.

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The pilot was spring loaded by an self made coil spring. The trailing truck got the same treatment.

The come test running ...  Eek  Icon_cry   Icon_rolleyes 
No Messr. United this is not the way gearboxes should run.
In backwards direchtion it moves under own power, but a very loud gnarling noise. That was the good news
In forward direction it blocked itself. That is the bad news.
Why?  Waiting

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The gearbox was removed again and examined carfully.
Bugs found:
- there was not a correct mesh between worm and worm gear
- cause: the half bores for the driver's axle were not in line
- one has the correct depth for correct mesh
- the other one not Curse
- as said before Messr. United, this is not the quality level we are accustomed from you

Now a thouroughly and cautious filing by me followed to establish the correct mesh with these mod. 0.3 gears.

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The running gear was reassembles again.

And now it runs like it should:

your work is wonderful. I think you could make a Rolex run smoother. 
This is a real inspiration to see how you dive into the mechanics and make things work. 

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When the running test was sucessful passed, the loco was assembled and i made some more check photos.
On both photos the rear end of the loco is stuck in the air.

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Because of the new motor, there is much more space in the cab now. I will later built a cab interior here.

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Front end view as it appears now.

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Put some folded lead sheets as additional ballast weight into the rear end of the boiler. As result the loco is now leveled horizontal.

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Pick ups were made after the pattern of the earlier done K-27.

As usual, very nice workmanship. Applause Applause Applause

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