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+--- Thread: CNJ 4-8-0 (/showthread.php?tid=1785)
Re: CNJ 4-8-0 - doctorwayne - 09-30-2009
You can also make a rivet (of sorts): I'm doing some cosmetic work on a friend's loco, and, during a test run, it lost a rivet from the crosshead connection to the main rod. I drilled out the parts to accept the next largest size of wire (.019" in this case), then drilled a .012" hole in the end face of a length of .019" brass wire. I then punched out two 3/32" discs from a sheet of .005" brass shim stock, drilling an .012" hole in the centre of each. After cleaning all parts with some 800 grit sand paper, I applied a little paste flux (GERN brand, of course
), inserted the .012" wire through one disc and into the hole in the .019" rod. A quick touch with a soldering iron secured the three parts together. The .012" wire was then cut flush with the face of the disc and the .019" wire was cut to its approximate finished length.Using calipers, I determined the length actually needed for the "rivet", trimming it to its final length, then drilling the end face to accept another short length of .012" wire. The partially assemble piece was then inserted through the proper holes from the rear, where it was held in place with a wad of wet tissue wedged between the drivers and the rear of the crosshead. I applied a miniscule amount of oil to the exposed sides of the .019" rod, (to prevent solder from sticking to it) then inserted a fluxed piece of .012" wire into the hole in the end, installed the remaining disc, and gave it a quick touch with the soldering iron. A cut-off disc snicked-off any protruding wire, and the engine was ready for service.
You can also make true rivets in a somewhat similar fashion. Select a suitable wire size (one that's a good fit in the existing holes), or drill out the existing hole to accommodate the next largest wire size available. Drill into the centre of the end face of the wire, using a drill that's about .006" or .007" smaller than the wire. This will leave three or four thousandths of material around the perimeter of the hole. Cut into the end in an "X" pattern to make it easy to flare over the ends after the rivet is in place, or, if the parts are not yet in place on the loco, you can use a punch to effect the flare, foregoing the "X" cut. In either case, the flared end should be the one not readily visible under normal viewing. However, before the rivet is installed, punch-out a suitable "cap" for the opposite end of the rivet, and solder it in place, then install the rivet from the outside face, and flare over the opposite end. Jim's suggestion of using paper to maintain clearances is a good one, too.
Wayne
Re: CNJ 4-8-0 - Sumpter250 - 09-30-2009
doctorwayne Wrote:You can also make a rivet (of sorts):
You can also make true rivets in a somewhat similar fashion. Jim's suggestion of using paper to maintain clearances is a good one, too. Wayne
That, gives a whole new dimension to the phrase, "rivet counting" But then, I should talk.....I don't know too many people who would work an eye splice in fine sewing thread, or, better yet, fly tying thread!.......which I'm about to do a lot of, rigging three sailing vessels for the new modules.
Re: CNJ 4-8-0 - doctorwayne - 09-30-2009
Sumpter250 Wrote:doctorwayne Wrote:You can also make a rivet (of sorts):
You can also make true rivets in a somewhat similar fashion. Jim's suggestion of using paper to maintain clearances is a good one, too. Wayne
But then, I should talk.....I don't know too many people who would work an eye splice in fine sewing thread, or, better yet, fly tying thread!.......which I'm about to do a lot of, rigging three sailing vessels for the new modules.
This is all covered under the heading "Givens & Druthers": it's a given that most model railroaders are nuts
to some degree, and that we'd druther not worry about it. 
Wayne
Re: CNJ 4-8-0 - Russ Bellinis - 09-30-2009
Sumpter250 Wrote:doctorwayne Wrote:You can also make a rivet (of sorts):
You can also make true rivets in a somewhat similar fashion. Jim's suggestion of using paper to maintain clearances is a good one, too. Wayne
But then, I should talk.....I don't know too many people who would work an eye splice in fine sewing thread, or, better yet, fly tying thread!.......which I'm about to do a lot of, rigging three sailing vessels for the new modules.
I have enough trouble making an eye splice in rope scaled at 12 inches to the foot, no way would I try to do an eye splice in fine sewing thread!
CNJ 4-8-0 - e-paw - 10-01-2009
Stopped in at a hobby shop on the way home and picked up some rivets. I also managed to fix the broken link.
It all went together well as you can see.just some more pics of the almost completed model.
Re: CNJ 4-8-0 - tetters - 10-01-2009
Looks like there is a big rocket booster on the back of that thing.
Re: CNJ 4-8-0 - Puddlejumper - 10-01-2009
Wow!! Outstanding!!
CNJ 4-8-0 - e-paw - 10-01-2009
Some earlier mid build pics provided to me by Toptrain. Thanks pop.
Re: CNJ 4-8-0 - Wayne R - 10-01-2009
You locomotive is looking great and that is a super job on the valve gear.
When I had to fix the valve gear on my CNR 2-8-0 it was the one thing that I was not looking forward to. The thought of having to deal with those tiny rivets scared me. Needless to say with some carefull work I was able to make the repair with no problems. 
Wayne Reid
Re: CNJ 4-8-0 - Empirebuilder - 10-02-2009
Thats one outstanding job you've done,I just love the 4-8-0 wheel arrangment and being a GN. fan was lucky enough to come across a GN. Class G3 12 wheeler that mates up well with my consolidation.
The only thing 4-8-0 no.744 and 2-8-0 1182 lack now is Tsunami sound decoder's so they can run regularly on our DCC layout.
Again that CNJ camelback a beaut' I'm sure your going to enjoy showing it off and rightly so....
Re: CNJ 4-8-0 - Sumpter250 - 10-02-2009
The valve gear is superb!
as is the rest of the build. That, is a good looking loco!
Re: CNJ 4-8-0 - ocalicreek - 10-03-2009
Valve gear is one of those, "Okay, here we go up another floor" kind of steps in modeling, IMO. Yours has turned out great! Now...are you going to attach any kind of reach rod or power reverse? (This is what's got my Shifter stymied at the moment).
Galen
Oh, and while I'm a huge fan of the N&W 4-8-0's, didn't SP have some? I think one of theirs is still in a museum or park somewhere. Glad Strasburg has theirs lettered properly.
Re: CNJ 4-8-0 - toptrain - 10-03-2009
Here is e-paw at the Fallen Flags get together today. The two people to his right are also Big Blue members. Steve, I had a nice day POP.
the CNJ 4-8-0 at the Fallen Flags
Re: CNJ 4-8-0 - Puddlejumper - 10-03-2009
Very nice 4-8-0!! I love this project!
How about pix of that CR Express C32-8?
dave
Re: CNJ 4-8-0 - P5se Camelback - 05-11-2010
Yeah! Camelbacks! Gotta love 'em!!!
Super Job, there E-paw!
Where can I find "the Beginning?" :?: What did you start with? I'm intrigued! I'm a sucker for another camelback! I've been thinking about a 4-4-2 Camelback Atlantic Inspection Loco to keep the kitbashed 4-4-0 American (Tyco General-based) Inspection Loco company in the "head shed." The American has a smallish, early Wooten firebox, but an Atlantic could have a proper wide radial-topped Wooten firebox. So ... what did you start with? :?: :?: biL