GEC's Layout Progress - Printable Version

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Re: GEC's Layout Progress - Russ Bellinis - 07-21-2011

GEC, I just saw the post on the Sw9 a few post up this thread. You don't need to remove the entire number to change one digit. Check out Matt Snell's article in the July issue of Model Railroad Hobbyist titled "Speed Bashing." You could use his really fine sand paper method to remove 1 digit and not disturb the paint. You won't find the fine sand paper you need at any big box store, but you need to go to a paint store that specializes in supplying the auto body shops in your area. They carry sand papers with grits all the up to 4000, maybe even higher for use in color sanding fresh paint. I think Matt used 1500 on the model featured in the article, you might try an even finer grit to remove the single digit without damaging the paint underneath.


Re: GEC's Layout Progress - Green_Elite_Cab - 07-21-2011

Russ Bellinis Wrote:GEC, I just saw the post on the Sw9 a few post up this thread. You don't need to remove the entire number to change one digit. Check out Matt Snell's article in the July issue of Model Railroad Hobbyist titled "Speed Bashing." You could use his really fine sand paper method to remove 1 digit and not disturb the paint. You won't find the fine sand paper you need at any big box store, but you need to go to a paint store that specializes in supplying the auto body shops in your area. They carry sand papers with grits all the up to 4000, maybe even higher for use in color sanding fresh paint. I think Matt used 1500 on the model featured in the article, you might try an even finer grit to remove the single digit without damaging the paint underneath.

thanks russ!

The only problem is that P2K's numbering is much thicker and larger than that of the Microscale decal set. I've had this problem alot recently (such as with the E33s I've recently completed).

Besides, to model the sw1200 (either as is or as the 9340), I'd have to do additional kit bashing. Converting it into SW9 # 8991 seems easier, and that specific unit operated in the area i model.


Re: GEC's Layout Progress - Lester Perry - 07-21-2011

What I have done in similar situations is to mask across the cab at the bottom of the window. lightly sand the numbers to smooth them. mask the rest of the model at the corners and paint over the numbers. No primer and just enough blue to cover. If you have good match on paint color perfect not needed, you will be pleasantly surprised with the result.


Re: GEC's Layout Progress - Green_Elite_Cab - 07-21-2011

Lester Perry Wrote:What I have done in similar situations is to mask across the cab at the bottom of the window. lightly sand the numbers to smooth them. mask the rest of the model at the corners and paint over the numbers. No primer and just enough blue to cover. If you have good match on paint color perfect not needed, you will be pleasantly surprised with the result.

Thats what i did on my E33. I knew the eraser method wouldn't work because there were to many details and rivets that would be obliterated that way. Instead, I carefully and tediously sanded around the edges of rivets until they were gone enough that i could paint over them. I also used Tamiya paint thinner to soften it up a little.

[Image: p6290520.jpg]

MoutaingoatGreg taught me another technique, using Solvaset and an eraser, that also smoothly removed the Penn Central logos off my GG1 without effecting the finish (and so removing any worry that i wouldn't have the right shade of Brunswick Green). You can tell by the photo above that nothing is really left of the Penn Central logo. There is kind of a ghost of it, but you have to hold it in the light to see it. once weathered, it will be invisible forever.

[Image: p7010552.jpg]

[Image: p7010553.jpg]


Speaking of invisible, anyone have good suggestions for weathering Brunswick Green? the 4840 took on a grayish look, and i'm not sure how to repeat that.

How would you guys weather this?

[Image: 5743.1072284660.jpg]


Re: GEC's Layout Progress - e-paw - 07-21-2011

To get that look You may try thin washes of grimy black applied with an air brush.     This set of train masters was weathered that way. Although not quite as severe as your "G" and in Steam power black not Brunswick green, That technique will give you a similar "gray haze" result with a few more coats of grimy black.


Re: GEC's Layout Progress - ocalicreek - 07-21-2011

Cheers

Or try a coat of Dullcote or other appropriate matte finish, followed by very light dustings of grimy gray chalk. Just mask over any parts to remain shiny...if any, as may be the case with those grimy engines in your photo! The initial dullcote provides an even 'toothy' surface for the chalk to grab and subsequent coats will seal and adhere well. Just let the dullcote dry fully between chalk applications in order to see if the color is really what you want.

Galen


Re: GEC's Layout Progress - Green_Elite_Cab - 07-23-2011

Well, Things snowballed. I went to the hobby shop, bought that three way turnout (ouch on the wallet, but it had to be done), as well as an additional Atlas #4 switch to lead into it from the mainline, and caboose industries ground throws for the Atlas switches on my layout (to replace those massive switch machines).

When i got home, i started trying to rebuild my crossover. That just lead to frustration, so i got to work on removing the tracks from my yard. Pretty soon, i had made a big mess on my hands. I have almost NEVER vacuumed the layout. Ever. Maybe once or twice, but only in small areas. I just decided to remove everything off the layout, brush up and loose scenic material that i could use again, and vacuum the whole thing.

Other than ripping up a section of roadway, everything went smoothly.

I finally got back to that pesky crossover, and just ripped out the offending switch, replacing it with a brand new one. I also McGuyvered a temporary rail joiner out of a track nail. Because of the way the switches fit together, i can't fit in a rail joiner, and i still need to add a "common rail" wire for the outer loop.

Because the layout is nearly apart, I'm planning on replacing all remaining mainline Sectional track with flex track, and rewiring everything so that all sections get electricity. This will hopefully put an end to all losses of power and shifted track joint issues. I'm probably also going to rebuild the highway bridges that cross the layout, making them thicker so that they can realistically span my new yard. Those highway bridges are in rough shape anyway, they can use some work.

I've also begun work on a HEP Generator car made from a former UP 44 seat coach. Amtrak put these behind GG1s so that they could operate with Amfleets (GG1s, E60CPs [steam-heat versions], and FL9s lack HEP capabilites.) These are distinguishable from regular coaches by screened windows and flush ends.

Demolition!

[Image: p7220673.jpg]

[Image: p7220677.jpg]

Vacuuming up 6 years worth of junk. Took some of the road with me, but thats ok, it was lumpy anyway.

[Image: p7220692.jpg]

Rebuilt that dang crossover. If anyone needs to make an Impulse buy, get an Atlas AEM7. they are great track testers! The number boards are always on as long as theirs track power. If they flicker, you know somethings up. I also ran my SD9 with a few cars through the crossover at various speeds to make sure it was trouble free. Looks good so far!

[Image: p7220688.jpg]

McGuyvered electrical connector. I was very carefull to make sure the switch did not shift out of position while doing this.

[Image: p7220691.jpg]

New Switches

[Image: p7220694.jpg]

Mainlines still work, for now! A Conrail work train surveys the desolate surroundings. Weren't there buildings here? One Mini-project i did was to replace the Bowser windows with Laser-cut windows by AMB in the N5C caboose. Unfortuneately, my steps got lost in a club derailment, so i need to find new caboose steps. Gonna have to make an email to Bowser about that!

[Image: p7220696.jpg]

Meanwhile, something horrible is about to happen to an old Rivarossi car.

[Image: p7190664.jpg]

Basically, the sides need to be totally smooth so that the brass car sides fit flush. Since the sides will be covered in brass (the ends in sheet styrene), i wasn't to concerned about what sort of grit sand paper i used. Sorry Illinois Central fans! Its not pictured, but i eventually butchered the sides, Removing the window frames and making the open areas higher so that "new" windows on the brass car side were unobstructed.

[Image: p7190668.jpg]

The sides are temporarily taped on while i decide how to represent the Generator car

[Image: p7190669.jpg]

That's it for now! I leave you with a prototype photo of the Generator car behind a loaned NJ-DOT GG1.

[Image: pictures%5C62695%5Cnjt%20gg1%204881%20ed...2-1979.jpg]


Re: GEC's Layout Progress - Amtrak X995 - 07-24-2011

hi

Green_Elite_Cab Wrote:That's it for now! I leave you with a prototype photo of the Generator car behind a loaned NJ-DOT GG1.

[Image: pictures%5C62695%5Cnjt%20gg1%204881%20ed...2-1979.jpg]

perhaps this helps
AMTRAK 685 750KW/HEP ST LOUIS 1953 AMT 1291, 1300; USA 89637 / BLT AS KITCHEN CAR
AMTRAK 686 750KW/HEP ST LOUIS 1953 AMT 1292, 1304; USA 89657/BLT AS A KITCHEN CAR
AMTRAK 687 750KW/HEP ST LOUIS 1953 AMT 1293, 1305; USA 89661 / BLT AS KITCHEN CAR
AMTRAK 688 750KW/HEP ST LOUIS 1953 AMT 1294, 1306; USA 89670 / BLT AS KITCHEN CAR
AMTRAK 689 750KW/HEP ST LOUIS 1953 AMT 1295, 1307; USA 89625 / BLT AS KITCHEN CAR
AMTRAK 690 750KW/HEP P-S 1942 AMT 1297; AUTOLINER (UP) 300 / BUILT AS A COACH
AMTRAK 691 750KW/HEP P-S 1942 AMT 1298; AUTOLINER (UP) 301 / BUILT AS A COACH
AMTRAK 692 750KW/HEP P-S 1942 AMT 1299; AUTOLINER (UP) 302 / BUILT AS A COACH
AMTRAK 693 500KW/HEP ACF 1947 PC 9151--BUILT FROM BAGGAGE CAR NYC 9151
AMTRAK 694 500KW/HEP ACF 1947 PC 9166--BUILT FROM BAGGAGE CAR NYC 9166
AMTRAK 695 500KW/HEP ACF 1947 PC 9170--BUILT FROM BAGGAGE CAR NYC 9170
AMTRAK 696 500KW/HEP ACF 1947 PC 9165--BUILT FROM BAGGAGE CAR NYC 9165

and
http://www.hebners.net/amtrak/amtHEP.html

i think, you startet out with the uncommon hep cars, they used together with the GG1. Most pictures i found, they show the baggage or the ex-citchen cars.

Such a car we need, too, butno time yet to biult one (all car and loco re-builts i disregarded for the layout....)


Re: GEC's Layout Progress - Green_Elite_Cab - 07-24-2011

Amtrak X995 Wrote:hi

perhaps this helps
AMTRAK 685 750KW/HEP ST LOUIS 1953 AMT 1291, 1300; USA 89637 / BLT AS KITCHEN CAR
AMTRAK 686 750KW/HEP ST LOUIS 1953 AMT 1292, 1304; USA 89657/BLT AS A KITCHEN CAR
AMTRAK 687 750KW/HEP ST LOUIS 1953 AMT 1293, 1305; USA 89661 / BLT AS KITCHEN CAR
AMTRAK 688 750KW/HEP ST LOUIS 1953 AMT 1294, 1306; USA 89670 / BLT AS KITCHEN CAR
AMTRAK 689 750KW/HEP ST LOUIS 1953 AMT 1295, 1307; USA 89625 / BLT AS KITCHEN CAR
AMTRAK 690 750KW/HEP P-S 1942 AMT 1297; AUTOLINER (UP) 300 / BUILT AS A COACH
AMTRAK 691 750KW/HEP P-S 1942 AMT 1298; AUTOLINER (UP) 301 / BUILT AS A COACH
AMTRAK 692 750KW/HEP P-S 1942 AMT 1299; AUTOLINER (UP) 302 / BUILT AS A COACH
AMTRAK 693 500KW/HEP ACF 1947 PC 9151--BUILT FROM BAGGAGE CAR NYC 9151
AMTRAK 694 500KW/HEP ACF 1947 PC 9166--BUILT FROM BAGGAGE CAR NYC 9166
AMTRAK 695 500KW/HEP ACF 1947 PC 9170--BUILT FROM BAGGAGE CAR NYC 9170
AMTRAK 696 500KW/HEP ACF 1947 PC 9165--BUILT FROM BAGGAGE CAR NYC 9165

and
http://www.hebners.net/amtrak/amtHEP.html

i think, you startet out with the uncommon hep cars, they used together with the GG1. Most pictures i found, they show the baggage or the ex-citchen cars.

Such a car we need, too, butno time yet to biult one (all car and loco re-builts i disregarded for the layout....)

Thanks for the roster Info. Its becoming difficult to track down exactly which cars are what, especially with those PC cars, i didn't know which they where (I have an Amtrak roster book but it lists the HEP cars in the 1200 series and doesn't separate them from the other Baggage cars).

That said, I do indeed have a 50' Baggage car kit (built by Train Station Products), which would be the former US Army Kitchen cars listed above. The problem with this kit is that it is $50 for the kit, and you don't get all the parts you need to finish the model.

Also, good photographs of the roof of the 50' types are nearly impossible to get. From what I've seen in quick glimpses on my DVDs, there is an open square housing roughly a quarter of the length of the car in from each side. I can only assume these are exhaust area,s but there are few pictures clear enough for me to see what they are, and my 3D image software has failed to help me accurately measure this exhaust area.

The other problem is, regular 50' baggage cars are also very common (not all got rebuilt into HEP cars). Though I originally planned to build this into a HEP car, I might not, and I may build it as the intended baggage car. If I can find one more 50' baggage car kit, then I'll probably convert that into a HEP car.

For future reference, the proper Brass Car Side for the HEP car is the "UP Challenger 44 Seat Coach". Might be putting off the car building, but I would order the sides now anyway. It appears that the company phases the sides in and out. Get them while they are available.


Re: GEC's Layout Progress - Green_Elite_Cab - 07-26-2011

I've temporarily tacked down my new yard. I've decided to forgo the "engine" track, which would cut back just like it did on the old yard. there would only be room for maybe one long locomotive there, since the yard office needs to be moved over to the throat of the yard with room for parking and the highway bridge just ahead of the yard throat (which is removed for now).

The only reason its temporarily down is because i need more cork roadbed, and I just slide these pieces in. I might use scraps of old cork from the old yard to fill in underneath the switchers, rather than try to buy cork pads. The big exception being if there is a solid "Yard pad", in which case I'd be all aboard for that. It would let me more easily model the muddy flat conditions of northern new jersey yards.

The mainline around it is also removed, to be replaced with flex track.

[Image: p7250703.jpg]

I do like the way it curves, and i've found that the curves are broad enough that most locomotives an couple and uncouple even at the most extreme points (except for my very longest locomotives like my E33)

[Image: p7250701.jpg]

There is DEFINITELY more space. Pictured are TWO complete trains plus a few more cars, and there is still room to spare. I'll cut the track down when i get all the other cork in.

[Image: p7250700.jpg]

Now that looks a little more exciting than it used to!

[Image: p7250698.jpg]


Re: GEC's Layout Progress - e-paw - 07-26-2011

Good stuff. Your yard is coming along A lot better than mine, It's just a bunch of lines drawn on top of the foam. Nope


Re: GEC's Layout Progress - Green_Elite_Cab - 07-26-2011

I'm sure it will materialize fairly quickly when you get to work on it! I just plunked this stuff down to get it done quickly.

I do like the way it flows though... It almost makes me want to tear down the layout completely, and start new, but i'm not prepared to do that just yet!


Re: GEC's Layout Progress - Green_Elite_Cab - 08-04-2011

Good news and bad news, I got accepted to the College i wanted (Jefferson School of Health Professions, Bio-sciences program), but its an intense year round (as in i'll still be there this time next year) program, so I'm not sure how long I'll be able to keep the modeling up. I plan to get the layout running perfect before September, so i can at least run things.


Well, the yard was finished a few days ago, and now the entire inner oval is flex track. Just need to get three more lengths of flex track to finish the 22" curves. This means that i can run trains on the inside loop. I haven't tested it yet, but it should work. If it doesn't, I'll start soldering wires to every section. I'll probably use this oppertunity to rewire the layout. If the track was bad, the wiring is literally everywhere. the only reason it is not a rats nest it because I had barely left any slack, so wires make dead-straight lines to the terminals on the track and the "Selector" panels from when the layout was Block wired for DC.


One of the big things that i don't know if I'll be able to replace is the large highway viaduct that I had originally spanned the layout with. I liked this viaduct, but it will NOT span the yard, the supports just can't fit without spacing them to far.

the Rix highways need support, as they will start wiggling apart if you don't adequately support them (every scale 50' or so). The way around this is to build a thicker viaduct, but that would require rebuilding, or just scratch building the whole thing. I'm not sure I'm in a good position to build such a structure just yet, but we'll see. I'm thinking about replacing some spots with modern bill boards, so that the view "across" the layout is still impeded. Otherwise, the gap between the Bralick building (big gray structure) and magic Pan is to great, and the other tracks obvious.


Re: GEC's Layout Progress - faraway - 08-04-2011

Green_Elite_Cab Wrote:...I got accepted to the College i wanted ....
Hurray!! Get the priorities right and do not worry about model railroading Thumbsup


Re: GEC's Layout Progress - Ralph - 08-05-2011

Congratulations and best wishes!
Ralph