Help matching CSAO ballast color
#1
Hi guys, I could do with some help in matching ballast color for my 2007 CSAO south New Jersey proto-freelance layout.

I have some Arizona Rock CSX/Southern Pacific/Wabash ballast but I think it's too salt and pepper. To my eyes the target color is darker, more even with a slight blue tone.

Here is a very neat and tidy example photo of what I'm aiming for as a base -

[Image: freight234.jpg]

However most of my track will be overgrown and less tidy -

[Image: 100-0062_IMG.jpg]


[Image: 100-0051_IMG.jpg]

I had planned on mixing Arizona Rock Earth with the ballast and applying static grass over that. But is till need the base ballast.

I'd like to stick with Arizona Rock products but it's a challenge to match colors without photos and even then it's different when applied on a layout than in a bag.

Can anyone help?

Warm regards,

Steve.
UK Engineering fan, from the tiny artistically engineered to the huge and powerful
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#2
Our ballast varies in color from week to week. It gets dirty and that dulls the color. I prefer to start with limestone sand as I think it looks like real limestone ballast, because it is. I use blue windshield washer fluid to dilute white glue (50-50)to hold it down and that adds blue to the color. A lot of branch line track today still has the black cinder ballast showing through the light coating of stone ballast. I used a black sandblasting medium to represent the cinders and in places scattered some limestone to look like work had been done in modern times.
On the main line in my area they appear to be using crushed granite. It too accumulates dirt and the color darkens. When new ballast is installed and worked it mixes with the old and gives it a salt and pepper type appearance, but it is shades of grey, not black and white.
The color won't be a big issue with well weathered track and the weeds. Most branchlines here get minimal maintenance. The Kiski Junction track to Bagdad Pa had not had any major work done between 1965 and 1995. The neighbor boy (3 years old) told us the "Blue" engine would go up the 4 mile line and would not come back for 2 days. When I saw the track for the first time I couldn't believe they even serviced the line. The crew told me they derailed every trip no matter how careful they were.
Charlie
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#3
Thanks Charlie, interesting tip with the washer fluid. I might see what they does to what I have. I have black cinders and a mid gray yard mix. If I can get the ballast I have to work that's good.
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#4
One trick I used years ago on another layout was to find a road that had been spread with slag or limestone and on the curves there would be a mix of small "stone" and dust. I gathered that up and washed it and sifted it to make ballast. I don't know if that opportunity presents itself to you in the UK. We have splatter screens that are used over skillets to keep grease from splashing that I find are just the right size for HO ballast.

I will take a look at some of my slides to see if any show the difference in the ballast on the Kiski.
Charlie
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#5
Engfan:
The colour of the windshield washer fluid is a key to what temperature it will work at. I think blue is -40. Green goes down farther. Pink solidifies about one degree below freezing.
I don't think it affects the colour of the ballast.
David
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.
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#6
Steve, the colors depend on the photos and your screen of course but here they are. I hope they help. The guy with the shovel in his hand is a former volunteer, now an engineer with the New Castle (Pa) Industrial Railroad.                    
Charlie
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#7
Great photos Charlie, many thanks for sharing those. Where were those photos taken? You are right about camera and screen used, they can make a big difference. I have two screens at work, one makes gray look pink and the other blue. If I want to view something as near to correct as I can I use my Mac at home or my iPad.

Those photos show more variety in the color of stone used and the amount of earth or bits of rotted tie mixed in. I think I might experiment with mixing some earth pigment in to see what I can get.

Phil from Arizona Rock replied to an email I sent with the near and tidy ballast photo and has suggested a mix of ballast products he sells. So that's another alternative.

Living in London it's hard to find natural products on the ground so I am quite reliant on commercial products but I don't like the nut shell and paper based ballast materials.

Steve.
UK Engineering fan, from the tiny artistically engineered to the huge and powerful
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#8
Reminds me I really must distress my ties more!
UK Engineering fan, from the tiny artistically engineered to the huge and powerful
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#9
Steve, those were all taken at the Kiski Junction Railroad in Schenley, Pa. These were early on within the first 3 years I ran it. On 5.2 miles we replaced 12000 feet of rail and 7000 ties over 10 years. My volunteers also built a 750 foot siding and installed a switch with no heavy equipment. A great bunch of guys. Many of the 7000 ties and some of the rail were done the same way.

Keep in mind you need a good tie every 5 to be legal to transport hazmat or passengers at 10MPH (See <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://utu.org/worksite/PDFs/safetylawsummary/TrackStandards.pdf">http://utu.org/worksite/PDFs/safetylaws ... ndards.pdf</a><!-- m -->) Great reading and believe me track does not have to look real good to be safe for the speed it is classified.
Charlie
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#10
Thanks Charlie
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#11
Steve, for your enjoyment, a cab ride to Bagdad Pa over the newly formed Kiski Junction Railroad. (we serviced Allegheny Ludlum there) At this point 1100 new ties have been installed and some new ballast. The line was still in need of a lot of brush cutting.
In the UK knot weed is considered hazardous and must be buried at least 15 meters when removed according to one of the sites I was on. Goldth It was a never ending battle
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://youtu.be/QvjNlsxZjeA">http://youtu.be/QvjNlsxZjeA</a><!-- m -->
Charlie
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#12
And I did enjoy that! I've tried many times with friends who work on the RR but never managed to bag a cab ride:-(
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#13
Not really the colour I was after but here are some photos of my piece of test track where I have been trying out a few methods of weathering ties and rail. It needs more work but I'm quite pleased with it so far. I will be distressing the ties more with a blade, creating more variety in the tie colors, spacing ties out more, adding rail bars, adding oil stains etc. I will experiment more with rusty rail and tie plates for the less used parts of the layout.

Any comments and advice appreciated.


Athearn Genesis GP40-2 creeping into view...

[Image: imagejpg1_zps0e2ed6fd.jpg]

Happy with the basic color of the ties. Yes I know I have stray ballast particles, it's not actually cemented yet.

[Image: imagejpg4_zpscecf9d9d.jpg]
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#14
Steve, that looks terrific. If you can cant I tie every now and again so it isn't 90 degrees with the rail it will be prototypical too. Even some with one end missing entirely will work, but so far that is great. Cheers Cheers
Charlie
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#15
Charlie B Wrote:Steve, that looks terrific. If you can cant I tie every now and again so it isn't 90 degrees with the rail it will be prototypical too. Even some with one end missing entirely will work, but so far that is great. Cheers Cheers
Charlie


Thanks. Yes exactly what I have planned.
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