GEC's Layout Progress

[Green_Elite_Cab]

In an effort to avoid stalling (still waiting on sides, still need to get to the hobby shop for decoders), I've picked up my other earlier project, Conrail #7499, an ex-LV GP18. Sure enough, I open that little P2k parts bag, and stuff goes missing (or maybe was never there) immediately!

I'm not sure how, but apparently some stuff flicked to floor. Fortunately, the only parts I'm missing are a coupler cut bar and a few grab irons. Thankfully, I have spares from my CNJ GP7 project, since the lighting cabinet modification makes the long hood grab irons surplus.

speaking of which, I should probably work on that one too. There are a few odds and ends to complete before I begin painting that engine. It would be nice to get the CNJ GP7s done for this year's show season as well, but given the difficulty finding the appropriate paints for the NJ DOT paint scheme, I'm not sure I want to rush it.

Not got much to say, but that I always find stuff you post inspiring, so don't get disheartened. The modelling mojo comes and goes.

Thank you! It certainly seems to. I think I just need to get back to some easier stuff, and just not let myself get so overwhelmed.

The layout is looking great.

I wish! I'm till thinking about taking it down, but then I'm not sure I'll be able to replace it with something better.

[Green_Elite_Cab]

Hooray, stuff got done!

PRR B1 Switcher

I finally wrapped up my B1 switcher, which was something I was really nervous about. The locomotive had no easy way of being wired for DCC at first glance, since the frame was also important for holding the motor, and the motor passed the current through its own frame. The solution? Isolate a commutator brush and solder a motor control wire right to it. Thanks to Bruce at Sattler's hobby shop for that tip!

I packed a TCS T1-LED decoder into it, which was useful because the limiting resistors are built in, reducing the amount of wiring in the tiny boxcab. I also made copious use of shrink tubing to cover every exposed wire and solder joint, so that there was no chance of the components shorting by touching the frame or body shell anywhere. The LEDs are ULTRA bright, but look incandescent. A single LED acts like a flashlight in the dark, so I might have to dim these lights (how does Rule 17 work on a double ended locomotive?). This will definitely light up the night scene at the club's passenger station.

The only thing I could have done better was maybe put some black paper or something between the decoder wires and the side windows. In the future, if I can get some microscope cover slips, I may install glass windows. I wonder what inside the cab of a B1 looks like? I tried to take a peak at the RR Museum of PA (where the loan survivor is located) but I couldn't see. If it isn't to much trouble, a detailed cab might be interesting!







Posing with the last B1 at the Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania. If only I were a little taller!



Ex-LV Conrail #7499

This one is also almost done. If I'm lucky, I'll get a decoder into it this week. I'm actually further along than the photos suggest. The windows, headlights and numberboards are installed, the paint is touched up, and all that remains to do is to install the windshield wipers (waiting for the paint to dry before I put them near the windows), add numbers to the number boards, and weather it appropriately. I might solvaset some of the Conrail decals, and seal it with dullcote, but I get nervous since painting is my weakspot. At the very least I better clean it before I seal any dust in!

Quick Question- Do i need to install resistors in old P2K models for the headlights? these are still bulbs, not LEDs.

In any event, I decided to paint the patches free hand. I figured with the decal strips on the model, it would be to risky, even if sealed, to try and mask them off. In the end though I think it worked out.

I used Tru-Color LV Cornell red as the base coat. This is a brighter red like in the LV's later years. I used Polly scale LV Cornell red for the patches. This is a duller, darker paint, which is very similar to the prototype's appearance. While I attempted to follow the photos, I took a little bit of license with the patches, letting more of the LV lettering bleed through than in the prototype.

In reality, its probably pretty difficult to perfectly match the bleed through on a patch, so I'm not gonna get to worked up over it. If rivet counting is bad, paint chip counting is beyond insanity.









Not the best shot, but I also dabbed Cornell Red on the rear logo to simulate the "chipping away" of the old LV diamond. I still need to paint the edgs of the patch so that there isn't any unpatched black, but I misplaced my finer tip brush.




Still close examinations of some photos reveal that you could still see the old roadnumber, 305, bleeding through the patch paint behind the Conrail numbers. To help it along, I carefully used an exacto blade to scrape away the dried paint so that the old number was a little more clear.



Broadside view. One important thing to do is ALWAYS check the photos. As it turns out, the "CR" patch on either side were positioned differently. On the engineer's side, the CR patch is under the rear dynamic brake blister, and is spaced out so that the C and the R are on different panels. On the other side, the CR patch is under the forward radiator grill, and more typically spaced.



From my slide collection




Ex-CNJ NJDOT #4105

My GP40P is also approaching completion. I didn't take any photos, but I added the rear warning stripes, and some EMD builder plate decals. I still need to add the cab and rear numberboards (these are open holes on the brass model), and do a few more things to it. The warning stripes were a paint, since it turned out they were not exactly right-angle chevrons, but they weren't 60 degree either. It really does seem like these engines all had different striping patterns. One wonders if the CNJ people just slapped on stencils any which way that looked right!

I also began wiring it for DCC, though I am having difficulty. The model is actually directly wired from the truck wipers to the motor, and does not appear to get any of its current through the frame. The motor is mounted onto the frame with for brass screws, and the motor supports are themselves brass but did not seem to electrically connect to the motor terminals. When I saw this, I figured DCC would be easy! the model ran just fine on DC, but then I haven't tested it again on DC since disassembling it for painting.

What seems to be happening, is that current is getting through the frame and getting into the motor. It is NOT enough to short the locomotive out. However, when the decoder (A TCS T1) is installed, it hums, it does not respond, and it reads back garbage. When the motor is removed from the frame, but still hooked up, it runs totally fine (no perceptible damage to the decoder). I tested the decoder in an Athearn GP35 to be safe, and all the lights and functions on the decoder still work.

The issue now is finding a way to isolate the motor. Ideally, I'd like to use plastic screws and washers, but the small screws that mount the motor don't seem like a standard size. A quick and dirty way of doing it may be to use a hot glue gun with some plastic pins, and glue it to the mounts so that they don't touch, but this seems messy and perhaps a tad unprofessional. On the other hand, it might help reduce the noise, but then this model doesn't run very loud to start with.

If I could get this locomotive running this week, I could run my Jersey Builder Consist for the NMRA open house and public open houses later this year, so I really feel under pressure to finish this one up! I haven't patched my Jersey Builder coached from NJ DOT yet (still have those GN goats!), but this won't be a problem for long.

Broadway Limited Diner

The NKP Car Co sides came in! Unfortunately, they lack the details of the original walthers ones. They are also a little short, but they still fit in close enough, so this shouldn't be noticeable. I might be able to add the vents to the bottom corners with some Train Station Products Budd Roof Vents, cut to size, but I am not sure how I would go about installing them.

The "best looking" choice would be to cut a square hole into the sides to install the vents, BUT these sides are nickel plated steel. I suspect this would be incredibly risky, since mistakes would not be easily concealed.

The "next best" choice would be to make the vents, but sand them down as thin as possible, and then cut grooves into them to fit over the slab sides. This would be a lot of work, but its relatively safer. I will probably go this route.

The only other disappointment, is that because the sides are steel, I cannot modify the Diner car to Amtrak Specifications. Amtrak made the two center windows (across from the waiter station) much smaller. On the Walthers model, this was easy to do with styrene and putty, but the steel sides do not lend themselves to easy modification. In particular, they have "etched' on window gaskets. I have no idea how I would remove this gasket without damaging the rest of the side. The only advantage here, is that this area would be covered by Amtrak Stripes, so it may be possible to CAREFULLY file away the gaskets and fill the area with styrene and putty, then polish smooth.

However, this leaves the issue of recreating the window gasket. In the past, I have repaired small sections of window gasket with Tamiya Two-Part putty. I would mix it together, then roll it between my fingers until it was the size of an eraser shaving, which was great for patching small flutes or gaskets, but I've never done half a window, and I've have to do that twice.

The question becomes, is it worth it? I already had issues with the original sides, and I got lucky with this "second chance". Maybe I should quit counting rivets and hope no one notices! I'll probably be happier with a close enough car, than two sets of damaged sides. I'll at least go for the corner vents, since making them and trying to fit them won't harm the sides at all. I can add them at any time.

In the prototype photo below, you can see the vent on the bottom right. Towards the center of the car, you can see the smaller windows. This was not the original PRR configuration (represented by both the Walthers and NKP Car co sides), but I don't know if Amtrak did this, or Penn Central. Unsurprisingly though, this was a variation not modeled by any manufacturer, as we all know PRR is king.




A flood of Blue Box and MDC

Through donations, I acquired a large number of Athearn and MDC kits. This included a few flat cars, condolas and hoppers, but a great deal of boxcars. Most only need metal wheels, a few need new couplers. Only one was too damaged to build (a reefer with extended coupler pockets broken off).

I'm glad to have these, as many are "Off" road names of shortlines and minor railroads. Most of my rolling stock is marked for north eastern "Class One" roads, which in its own way, gets very boring. While its fun to collect the specific prototype Conrail boxcars and hoppers, its nice to have some other colors to break up the monotony.

I only managed to photograph a few on the layout, the others were quick shots with my phone, which is still uploading. I'll have to take better pictures later!

[shortliner]

GEC - that first one is a strange looking wee beastie - it almost looks as though it was rebuilt from a wrecked freight motor that started out in life with two sets of traction bogies under it, one at each end, mounted under a longer deck

[Green_Elite_Cab]

GEC - that first one is a strange looking wee beastie - it almost looks as though it was rebuilt from a wrecked freight motor that started out in life with two sets of traction bogies under it, one at each end, mounted under a longer deck

You are close; the locomotives were never wrecked. The original 28 motors were built during 1926 in a variety of configurations, but were semi-permanently coupled into 14 pairs. The BB1 was a prototype set up for AC catenary, the BB2 was a DC powered third rail motor for coach-yard operations around Sunnyside yard and New York Penn Station in New York City, and the BB3 was an AC freight motor for the Long Island Railroad, a PRR subsidiary.

In 1934, an additional 14 locomotives were purchased, but as B1 "single units" set up for AC catenary, since by this point the main "legs" of the PRR electrified routes (today's Northeast Corridor and Harrisburg Lines). Around this time, the pairs were all split and reclassified B1. The BB2s were also converted to AC power during this time.

This is why there is a "deck" on only one end, since the other end was close-coupled to the second unit, back to back.


These locomotive spent almost the entirety of their existence in coach yards, specifically Sunny Side in New York, 30th Street in Philadelphia, and Harrisburg. On rare occasions these engines would travel out onto the mainline with MoW trains. However, their necessity greatly diminished as time wore on. With the rise of the diesel switcher, the smoke abatement issues associated with steam switchers no longer were an issue. As passenger traffic declined in the 1950s and 60s, there was less work for these increasingly anachronistic mini-motors. Diesel switcher increasingly displaced them. Reportedly, they were withdrawn from Harrisburg coach yard duties due to public complaints about their loud blower fans. Penn Central retired the last one from the Sunnyside Yard in the mid 1970s.

I'll have to hit the books when I get home to check the specific history of 4751, but I think it was the last B1 in operation when it was retired and scrapped. The model is painted as it would have appeared in the late 1960s, in preparation for the Penn Central merger.

[kamerad47]

I used some black electric tape in the engine cradle & drilled a hole in some plastic to make some washers to iso the motor !!

[Green_Elite_Cab]

Extra facts just cause:

It turns out that PRR 4751 was formerly BB2 3912. It was built in June 1926 by the PRR's Juniata shops, using Westinghouse electrical equipment, and was set up for third rail DC work. It developed 570 HP individually. It was split from its partner 3913 in 1933 and classified as a B1. The locomotive was renumbered to 4751 in October 1966 in anticipation of the Penn Central merger. It was retired sometime in 1975, after 49 years of operation.

I used some black electric tape in the engine cradle & drilled a hole in some plastic to make some washers to iso the motor !!

I'll have to take photos, but if only it were that easy. In this case, the motor is "suspended' over an semi-hollow fuel tank. Isolating in that fashion may not be enough.

I wonder how hard it would be to find the right size screws in plastic? Thats the only way I see this plan working.

[kamerad47]

May be try a small piece of shrink tube on the screw were it goes through the fame ????? :?:

[Green_Elite_Cab]

Some More progress, though I lack photos.


Conrail GP18 #7499

Though I'm sure I can find some more things to do with it, I think I can call #7499 finished (except the horn). DCC and lighting is fully installed, all the cracked P2k gears but one (which seems uncracked) are replaced, all the grab irons and most minor details intalled, number board decals applied, etc.

With any luck, I'll be running it tonight on the club layout. I'm glad this engine is finally "operational", considering how slow my hobby progress has been lately. Even though its patched, its still the only thing in LV paint at our club, so I am sure it will stand out.

Conrail SW1200 #9340

I finally bit the bullet and renumbered #9344 to #9340. I had sort of wanted to do that in the first place, but one of the minor "annoyances" of being in a model railroad club is that everyone has the same stock numbers! So far as I can tell, no one has offered a model of #9340 "as-is", so I should be set.

However, the real trick I learned this time, was to "wet sand" the numbers! I tried my normal approach of Solvaset and "hi-polymer" eraser to remove the road numbers on the cab sides. However, the result was that the paint wore away around the numbers before the numbers did! On the other side, I tried using really fine wet sand paper (like the kind I use to polish plastic car sides). While I did wear it down in a few places, the results were better than on the other side.

Fortunately, the Floquil Conrail blue I have was close enough paint wise.

At least now I can bring my SW1200 down to the club and use it freely!

Conrail GP35 # 3640

While I was on my modeling roll, I painted up one of my Undec GP35s I purchased from bdw9535. It is now in the Reading Company's all-green scheme, though only the end striping decals are applied. I'm hoping I can get the model fully painted and assembled before the end of November, so that I can use it for our club open-houses. With any luck, it will consist well with my existing Conrail 4-axle road switchers.

Right now, the main question I have is about the roof. On the last Reading Company scheme, they actually painted road-numbers on the roof! The real question, is what Conrail decided to do about these numbers. the real #3640 is still with us, and there are photos of its restoration:

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://forums.railfan.net/forums.cgi?board=Reading;action=display;num=1173123328;start=440">http://forums.railfan.net/forums.cgi?bo ... ;start=440</a><!-- m -->

though the "ghost" of the road numbers remain, its not clear if they were ever patched. Judging from the close up photos though, it seems like the blue was painted right over the numbers. I don't see a spec of black! I might shoot the RCTHS an email, though they do say they don't have the staff to answer individual modelling questions.

I might bring the decal sheet with me to the club tonight and try to keep working on this model. There are a few Reading fans at the club that might be able to help.

Staten Island Rapid Transit ME-1

I also began work on my Staten Island Rapid Transit ME-1 car. These are the older 1920-1960s era cars. I've settled on the B&O blue inspired paint scheme, rather than the original Pullman Green. Unfortunately the problem is in the paint once again. I was tempted to paint the car in the same C&O Enchantment Blue that I painted my CNJ GP40P in (after all, this was all from the same era where the B&O, C&O, and associated lines, started to look identical).

Still, the SIRT was a thoroughly B&O operation, even if it was isolated from the rest of the B&O railroad.

I started by removing the molded on "end-gates" and molded on grab irons. These looked pretty bad and can probably be replaced with something I scratchbuild. With any luck, someone makes HO subway end gates! I was mostly successful, though I may have taken off too much on one side. I will try to fix this with Tamiya putty, but I think this will be a minor blemish in the grand scheme of things, as the end gates will partially cover this area.

I did attempt to paint this car as well, though the Pollyscale C&O paint didn't "stick". I suspect I thinned it too much, but regardless, I wiped it clean and decided to rethink my choice in paint colors. I do have some B&O Royal blue, but it is somewhat purplish. I might just spray it that way anyway, and see how it looks.

[acelaphillies]

Conrail SW1200 #9340

I finally bit the bullet and renumbered #9344 to #9340. I had sort of wanted to do that in the first place, but one of the minor "annoyances" of being in a model railroad club is that everyone has the same stock numbers! So far as I can tell, no one has offered a model of #9340 "as-is", so I should be set.

However, the real trick I learned this time, was to "wet sand" the numbers! I tried my normal approach of Solvaset and "hi-polymer" eraser to remove the road numbers on the cab sides. However, the result was that the paint wore away around the numbers before the numbers did! On the other side, I tried using really fine wet sand paper (like the kind I use to polish plastic car sides). While I did wear it down in a few places, the results were better than on the other side.

Fortunately, the Floquil Conrail blue I have was close enough paint wise.

At least now I can bring my SW1200 down to the club and use it freely!

I have also tried Solvaset and Scotch tape to remove factory lettering. I have heard that it works for some people, especially on Athearn stuff. However, when I tried to remove the Acela logos on my HHP-8 I would up taking off some paint. It seems like there are a handful of methods that all work ok but not great. Maybe I will try out the wet sanding approach. Factory numbered locos are nice and easy, but they do have limitations.

[Tyson Rayles]

4751 is a real cutie!

[Green_Elite_Cab]

I have also tried Solvaset and Scotch tape to remove factory lettering. I have heard that it works for some people, especially on Athearn stuff. However, when I tried to remove the Acela logos on my HHP-8 I would up taking off some paint. It seems like there are a handful of methods that all work ok but not great. Maybe I will try out the wet sanding approach. Factory numbered locos are nice and easy, but they do have limitations.

Bachmann's pad printing is the worst. It helped that on my Conrail E33, the plastic is also Conrail blue! I know of a few people who have attempted to remove those logos, and they get stuck with a "ghost" every time! Leave it to Bachmann to make our lives harder.

I wonder if they could be sanded off and polished easily? That metallic finish is just the worst to modify.

Technically, they were originally delivered this way, so I won't touch them. My HHP8 is a yard queen anyway. I think I tried to put DCC in it once, but I don't remember how that worked out, all I know is that it sits on my shelf to this day. I remember it ran VERY slow, hardly fast enough for the corridor! I might have to remove the board and hard wire the decoder directly.

Considering the prototypes are all stored now, I might pick up one more road number, just to have it.

Some old shots. These are from 2011, and its probably the last time I even photographed this unit intentionally!

4751 is a real cutie!

It has become real popular at my club. Its strong and fast for such a small engine. Definitely worth every penny!

[acelaphillies]

Yeah, the Conrail blue made it easy for you! I think for the Bachmann HHP-8 platinum mist is not an exact match, so I would have to blend it in with the rest of the body. Maybe I will try the polishing technique though.

Yes, they were definitely delivered with the logos, so you are good to go. For my era though (2011), they definitely need to go! One time I contacted Bachmann about the possibility of doing a run without the Acela logos, but obviously nothing materialized out of it. On a side note, I think their dark blue on those units may be too dark as well. Oh well.

Mine is definitely slower than the Atlas AEM-7. I think Kyle on the MLRR looked into the issue, but I don't remember the exact solution. Right now mine is currently apart. One of these days I want to try weathering it.

If you are looking for another HHP-8, I think some sites are trying to get rid of them. I remember seeing a good deal on TrainWorld not too long ago.

Nice pics! The second picture looks like a cool golden hour shot.

[Green_Elite_Cab]

I keep meaning to post an update, but I either held off for pictures, or I forgot to hit post

Ex-Reading Conrail 3640

Well, The first of the of the two Undec GP35s I bought from BDW9535 is now painted up as Reading 3640. Unfortunately I have not taken any pictures. I only left off a few Reading decals that did not appear to be present during the Conrail years while it was patched. Otherwise, its complete.

One hurdle, was that of the 4 numberboards on the engine, only one of them matched the Microscale decal sheet! Fortunately, I have a nearly infinite supply of NJ Transit decals, and it turns out this was exactly the font and size I needed! This isn't really all that surprising though, considering NJ Transit's font and styling was probably taken from Conrail during this time period.

Then engineer's side numberboard matches the Reading decal sheet, while the rest match NJ Transit.



Curiously, the numberboard decals that come with the microscale Conrail sheets never ever seem to actually match the numbers on any of the prototypes I model, except for a small handful of GPs and some switchers. This doesn't appear to be necessarily a result of Conrail being a "patchwork" of railroads. I am curious how they arrived at the decision to print those decals at those sizes and fonts.

NJ DOT GP7 5681 and others

I'm hoping that at some point in the near future, I can begin to paint this model. I think I have the body shell to the point where I am satisfied, and I believe a found a paint color that is close enough to what I am looking for (tru-color US Navy Blue). I would like it if I could find a blue that was slightly darker, or better yet, matched the Atlas U34CH NJ DOT blue, but I might have to settle for this color, otherwise this GP7 (and my E8s) won't ever get done.

In the meantime, Highball Graphics appears to sell Conrail numbers in Red Font, perfect for the NJ DOT GP7s. I'll send them a message first, but hopefully I can order them up and get them soon. I probably won't have these painted right away anyhow.

Hopefully, if this all works out right, I can get my E8s painted and ready to go. I've been holding off on them for a long time, and now its time to see if I can mask the curve on that nose!

At the very least, it would be nice to get the GP7 running because its unique, and it would look good pulling the Rapid CNJ/NJ DOT cars.

Birthday stuff

My girlfriend picked me up a new Conrail boxcar, and a very shiny, Phase II Amtrak Metroliner! Normally, the Phase II paint scheme wouldn't be prototypical for the Metroliners sold by Walthers (They received this scheme as they were rebuilt, and the model does not lend itself to easy conversion). However, Snack-bar coach #868 was repainted into the Phase II scheme after its Phase I Amtrak stripes became tattered.

As a result, its the only unrebuilt Metroliner in the "last" scheme. Indeed, only Coach #820, recieve a partial paint job in the form of a "phase II" Amtrak "face", with Penn Central stripes maintained on the side. Unfortunately, no decals exist for this, but I may attempt to paint this myself, provided i can find the appropriate decals.

So far, so good!



EL/NJ DOT Push Pull Set

While at the Garden State RPM, I found a few nice items (including a few extra flat cars and trailers). The one "deal" I found though, was a three car set of NJ DOT commuter cars. Technically speaking, these cars are unrealistic. They are Comet II models painted as the original Comet Push-pull cars bought for the Erie Lackawanna by the NJ DOT. Unfortunately, the Comet Is are particularly distinctive, with low doors and an unusual cab car end. These are pretty much only stand ins in shape and style only.

Still, I didn't pay a whole lot for them, they run well, and they match my U-boat, so I won't complain. Its an attractive enough set and reliable for the money!

The cars didn't show up well in any photos, but here is the train flanked by an SP Daylight and Milwaukee Road Hiawatha at our Club layout. When every passenger train on the layout is a fancy name train, the few commuter cars really stand out!

[acelaphillies]

Looking good there! That Metroliner sure looks nice! When you say there are no decals available, I assume you mean for the face? There are decals if you wanted to repaint the side stripes: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=87-1383&Store_Code=MD&search=metroliner+penn&offset=&filter_cat=&PowerSearch_Begin_Only=&sort=&range_low=&range_high=">http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/mer ... ange_high=</a><!-- m -->

Looking at pictures of NJDOT E8's that definitely is a pretty good curve on the nose! But hey, just be glad you don't have to paint a Southern Ry. unit! Sometimes when I am painting curves, I like to cut my masking tape into small sections. You can only bend tape so much, but if you put enough small pieces next to each other, it will make a curve. After all, a circle is just an infinite amount of tiny points. Idk, maybe try it out if you are looking for ideas. It has worked for me.

Last time you updated we got to talking about the HHP-8. I tried using your polishing method, but to no avail . I was using like 2500+ grit too! It was impossible to get the blue of the logos without messing up the silver. Oh well. I wound up just completely taking off the logos and will try to find a silver that matches to repaint it.

[Green_Elite_Cab]

Looking good there! That Metroliner sure looks nice! When you say there are no decals available, I assume you mean for the face? There are decals if you wanted to repaint the side stripes: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=87-1383&Store_Code=MD&search=metroliner+penn&offset=&filter_cat=&PowerSearch_Begin_Only=&sort=&range_low=&range_high=">http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/mer ... ange_high=</a><!-- m -->

Yes, I have that set. It would just be much easier to only do the face, since if I went that route, I'd have to find a chrome paint close enough the Walthers metal finish, paint over the strips and repaint the underbody, and the end caps. Either way, its not a pretty project.

Looking at pictures of NJDOT E8's that definitely is a pretty good curve on the nose! But hey, just be glad you don't have to paint a Southern Ry. unit! Sometimes when I am painting curves, I like to cut my masking tape into small sections. You can only bend tape so much, but if you put enough small pieces next to each other, it will make a curve. After all, a circle is just an infinite amount of tiny points. Idk, maybe try it out if you are looking for ideas. It has worked for me.

I did that when I did a Metro North GP40 for someone, but I wasn't 100% happy with it. What I might try to do, is find a similar decal, print it out, and cut the masking tape based on that.

Last time you updated we got to talking about the HHP-8. I tried using your polishing method, but to no avail . I was using like 2500+ grit too! It was impossible to get the blue of the logos without messing up the silver. Oh well. I wound up just completely taking off the logos and will try to find a silver that matches to repaint it.

Yeah, its a pain in the butt with the Bachmann units. its the sort of thing you really have to do really slowly.