NW 58th St., Miami
#61
Jim, Josh, to know that you derive some inspiration from my step-by-step makes it really worthwhile to do it.

Wayne, I love those ugly ducklings and I think some of them make very nice and interesting models.

I do brace my styrene models with styrene strips just the way you mentioned and I will brace the bottom of the walls of my ugly duckling when everything else is finished. I don’t want to get the braces in my way while detailing the structure. Until then, the 1/8" cardboard roof will keep the walls in shape and with the structure being only about 8" x 7", the roof is definitely strong enough to prevent sagging. When I built Sentry Industries, which is about 2" long, I used another method for the first time. Before I started to build it, I had made a mock-up from .080" cardboard. The dimensions of the mock-up were about right, so I decided to build my styrene structure around it. I only added a second layer of 1/8" cardboard to the roof to gain some height. The roof is absolutely bullet proof now Goldth. To glue the styrene walls one by one to the cardboard mock-up made building the structure a lot easier (especially the curved rear) and resulted in a very sturdy model. Here is a shot of the interior of Sentry.

[Image: m64.jpg]
Kurt
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#62
Amazing what can be does with styrene. We have one guy down at the club that does bridges from 3" to 48" in styrene and its simply amazing.
Lynn

New Adventure <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://bigbluetrains.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=9245">viewtopic.php?f=46&t=9245</a><!-- l -->

Great White North
Ontario,Canada
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#63
cnw1961 Wrote:I do brace my styrene models with styrene strips just the way you mentioned and I will brace the bottom of the walls of my ugly duckling when everything else is finished. I don’t want to get the braces in my way while detailing the structure. Until then, the 1/8" cardboard roof will keep the walls in shape and with the structure being only about 8" x 7", the roof is definitely strong enough to prevent sagging. When I built Sentry Industries, which is about 2" long, I used another method for the first time. Before I started to build it, I had made a mock-up from .080" cardboard. The dimensions of the mock-up were about right, so I decided to build my styrene structure around it. I only added a second layer of 1/8" cardboard to the roof to gain some height. The roof is absolutely bullet proof now Goldth. To glue the styrene walls one by one to the cardboard mock-up, made building the structure a lot easier (especially the curved rear) and resulted in a very sturdy model. Here is a shot of the interior of Sentry.

Sorry, Kurt, I can't imagine why I would think that you neglected the bracing Wallbang : your methods, techniques, and workmanship are always excellent. It's always a pleasure to watch a master at work, and there's always something for all of us viewers to learn. Please keep it coming.

Wayne
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#64
Lynn, it is really amazing what you can do with styrene. Do you have any pics of those bridges?

Wayne, I did not mention bracing explicitly when I built Sentry and with the structure I am currently building, I planned to do the bracing as one of the last steps. So you could easily get the notion I was neglecting it. Anyway, though it sometimes may look like I knew what I am doing, I am far from making no mistakes, so I really appreciate your help. When you posted your reply, I was still trying to decide how to brace my building. On one of my former projects I used cardboard, which worked very well.

[Image: m65.jpg]

But now that you mentioned styrene strips, it is settled that I use them Big Grin .
Kurt
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#65
You might all find this of interest, passed to me by my mate, Chris Gilbert - take a look around
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&q=&layer=c&cbll=25.81594,-80.258783&cbp=11,13.932318638712331,,0,5&ie=UTF8&om=1&panoid=wYuJBqKvdJM6VRqW2ob7QA&ll=25.811057,-80.252595&spn=0.013792,0.055618&z=15">http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&q ... 55618&z=15</a><!-- m -->

Note that you have to move by road. and if you want to see part of what was on Lances original, try
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=25.79765,-80.231652&spn=0.006636,0.008647&t=h&z=17&g=2214+NW+22nd+Ave,+Miami,+FL+33142&layer=c&cbll=25.797698,-80.231596&panoid=XsRgr9LTBKLbAzdWFe6dag&cbp=12,86.66970148199903,,0,4.7758911591171165">http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ie=UT ... 1591171165</a><!-- m -->

I guess this bit of East Rail doesn't see a lot of traffic any more!
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&q=&layer=c&cbll=25.829892,-80.25325&cbp=11,271.15891478390955,,0,5&ie=UTF8&om=1&panoid=J1S5G0isVT7xUoGnDDTFGw&ll=25.829696,-80.257037&spn=0.003312,0.008519&t=h&z=17">http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&q ... 9&t=h&z=17</a><!-- m -->

There are lots of tracks tucked away
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&q=&layer=c&cbll=25.834466,-80.256625&cbp=11,55.832175202593135,,0,5&ie=UTF8&om=1&panoid=yOosj2azgHZh27bg37nE-w&t=h&ll=25.835519,-80.256575&spn=0.003312,0.008519&z=17">http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&q ... 08519&z=17</a><!-- m -->

You could play in here for hours
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&q=&layer=c&cbll=25.841397,-80.254082&cbp=11,81.84091365033333,,0,5&ie=UTF8&om=1&panoid=qcRSlv77q67ygEH40eaURg&t=h&ll=25.841516,-80.254086&spn=0.001656,0.004259&z=18">http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&q ... 04259&z=18</a><!-- m -->
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#66
Shortliner, thank you for the links. I spent hours "wandering" around the East Rail district and the Downtown spur with Google street view and the bird’s eye view of Live Search Maps to find structures to model and get the feeling for this area. For my layout I combined some scenes I found. Though a lot of the companies are no longer served by rail anymore, for the sake of operations, on my layout they all will have rail service. All in all, my layout is not really prototypical, it is a kind of "rearranged reality" that I am modeling Goldth .
Kurt
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#67
After sanding the walls, the joints will no longer be visible once the structure will have been painted. I use a sanding block or wrap my sanding paper around a piece of wood when I sand the walls to avoid rounding the corners. After sanding the walls I could apply the last details, only an air conditioner is still to be put on the wall with the rolling door, but I will do that after painting the structure, and painting will have to wait until the weather ...etc., etc.

So here are some pictures of the finished structure.

[Image: m66.jpg]

I did not apply any details to the rear wall, as it will face to the rear of the layout (what a coincidence Goldth), I only built in a rolling door to justify rail service.

[Image: m67.jpg]

I hope we do not have an electrician on this forum, he will go crazy when looking at the wiring on the corner of my building. For what I could see in the blurry picture of Google street view, it looked very much like a spaghetti bowl to me, impossible to unravel. So I did some creative wiring .....

[Image: m68.jpg]

The last picture shows the front side of my structure (which is the left side of the prototype) exactly as you can see it in the prototype pic in the first post of my step-by-step. I did not get it 100% right, but I think I got close enough.

[Image: m69.jpg]
Kurt
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#68
I'm continually impressed with how well your buildings come out!
- Dan
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#69
!!!...FANATBULMAZING...!!! Worship Worship Worship
Gus (LC&P).
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#70
cnw1961 Wrote:So here are some pictures of the finished structure.

Worship

Bookmarked thread. Thank you for showing how you do this!

Grin,
Stein
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#71
Dangit Kurt, that buildings is beautiful, and its not even painted yet!!! Thumbsup Thumbsup Thumbsup

What did you use for the wiring work on the walls? Thats a neat detail and it really looks great!!
Josh Mader

Maders Trains
Offering everyday low prices for the Model Railroad World
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#72
With the details you are adding (electrical conduits and junction boxes, doorknobs, etc) and the excellent weathering of your rolling stock, this layout is going to be almost creepy realistic Eek . I don't mean that in a bad way - but if you were modeling some place I had been before, I'd surely have flashbacks Icon_lol
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Kevin
Check out my Shapeways creations!
3-d printed items in HO/HOn3 and more!
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.shapeways.com/shops/kevin-s-model-train-detail-parts">https://www.shapeways.com/shops/kevin-s ... tail-parts</a><!-- m -->
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#73
[Image: m50.jpg]
[Image: m69.jpg]

Yeah...I think you nailed it. Thumbsup

Nicely done bro! Can't wait to see it painted. Goldth
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#74
Trucklover Wrote:Dangit Kurt, that buildings is beautiful, and its not even painted yet!!! Thumbsup Thumbsup Thumbsup

What did you use for the wiring work on the walls? Thats a neat detail and it really looks great!!

Josh, go back to page 4 about 1/2 way down the page.
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#75
Russ Bellinis Wrote:
Trucklover Wrote:Dangit Kurt, that buildings is beautiful, and its not even painted yet!!! Thumbsup Thumbsup Thumbsup

What did you use for the wiring work on the walls? Thats a neat detail and it really looks great!!

Josh, go back to page 4 about 1/2 way down the page.

Thank you Russ Misngth I thought Kurt might have mentioned that before and i missed it lol
Josh Mader

Maders Trains
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