Action at the roundhouse

[cn nutbar]

Hello---another shot of "Beeg Boy"

[Steamtrains]

Whilst I'm heaping praise on modelers right now (I'm in a generous mood... ), I'll give his share to the good Doctor....
Number 4193 is a work of art....

[cn nutbar]

Hello Gus---thanks for acknowledging Doctor Wayne,he definetly deserves all the credit for creating this beautiful locomotive---here's a few more shots highlighting his outstanding workmanship

[modelsof1900]

Nutbar,
I know that I repeat my opinion. However I must say it again.
Excellent model work and excellent photograhies! Modeling of finest art!
And setting all in scene exact after reality!
Which higher attributs can I use yet for a correct description? It is a dream when I see what my engine model need to get for detailing - and I love to build ordinary model cars.

[cn nutbar]

Take a bow Doctor Wayne

[cn nutbar]

Here's Beeg Boy's little brother

[Steamtrains]

Ok....I'm signing off from visiting this thread. Otherwise I might be driven to grab my half-built Mike and throw it in the trash bin....

Just kiddin'.... This thread is a wealth of information, and I pick up a couple of pointers everytime I take a peek...

Keep those pics a' coming...

P.D. I got a bottle of "blackener" to darken the valve gear. But since it's all built, I'm wondering if it might attack the plastic crosshead. Should I maybe paint instead of blackening them..?? What paint color does D.W. use on his locos..??

[doctorwayne]

Gus, those commercial blackeners are totally safe on plastic, although they do like the metal parts to be free of grease, oil, and oxidation. After you get the desired degree of blackening, you may need to rinse away any residue with water, as some continue to "work" until all chemical reaction has ceased. Apply lubrication once dry.
For painting locos, both superstructure and running gear, I use either Floquil or Pollyscale paints, mixed to whatever colours I think look appropriate. The surface should be clean, and for siderods, valve gear, etc., free of lubricant. I usually brush-paint the latter initially, then follow-up with some airbrushing. After the paint is dry (but not hardened), I run the mechanism to allow it to remove any paint which may have gotten into places it shouldn't, then follow up with a judiciously-applied lube job using appropriate plastic compatible oil.

Wayne

[cn nutbar]

A night time shot at the roundhouse

[cn nutbar]

Another 2-10-2,this time T-4-A #4300

[cn nutbar]

Lowbanks departure

[MasonJar]

I got a bottle of "blackener" to darken the valve gear. But since it's all built, I'm wondering if it might attack the plastic crosshead. Should I maybe paint instead of blackening them..?? What paint color does D.W. use on his locos..??

Gus, those commercial blackeners are totally safe on plastic, although they do like the metal parts to be free of grease, oil, and oxidation. After you get the desired degree of blackening, you may need to rinse away any residue with water, as some continue to "work" until all chemical reaction has ceased. Apply lubrication once dry.

You can also use something called "NeoLube". It's a graphite lubricant that clings to metal. I have used it to blacken (well, "grey-en") and lubricate the siderods of a couple of steamers. Very effective, and all in one step (good for lazy people like me...! ). One drawback: don't get it on the driver tires, or your pulling power goes to zero as the wheels just spin and spin... Don't ask how I know

Andrew

[Steamtrains]

.. ..

Sorry...I couldn't help it....

[cn nutbar]

S-3-A #3734

[cn nutbar]

U-3-A Northern #6309