An engine servicing facility for the JGL
#31
Gary....That's a GREAT looking piece of work...!!! I'll look forward to seeing your progress and how it'll turn out...
I really like the look of your brick n' mortar work...Could you elaborate a little on the method you followed to get such good-looking walls..?? Thumbsup
Gus (LC&P).
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#32
I use pre-mixed drywall taping compound, which, I think, is similar to spackle - I apply it with a rag over my finger tip, let it dry, then wipe off the excess with a clean, dry rag.
[album]574[/album]

[album]578[/album]

I later found that this type of mortar can be weathered with a wash, without removing the material. I used PollyScale paint, well-thinned with water, and with a couple drops of dish detergent added, then applied it with a 3/4" brush at the top of the wall, followed by a quick and light swipe down the wall with the same brush. If you work it or use the brush too much, the mortar will be removed. Let the structure sit upright, with the paint washing down the wall, and remove any excess where it collects around details or at the base of the wall. The brush or a corner of a paper towel works well for this.
[album]575[/album]

[album]579[/album]

Gary, here's a partial view of the inside of the TH&B's Chatham Street roundhouse. Except for 4' or 5' around the bottom of the walls which was painted dark grey, the rest - walls, ceiling, and all posts and beams, was white. This was a brick roundhouse, inside and out, with wooden posts, beams and trusses supporting the roof.
[album]577[/album]

Wayne
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#33
Gus, much as Docwayne stated, I apply the spackle with my finger. I didn't use a rag, just my bare finger. You simply rub it in, spreading it out. I did wipe my finger clean on a rag occasionally. It comes off the brick tops incredibly easily. It fills the mortar lines with almost no effort. Areas such as the tiny pic above, with internal corners and multiple brick courses, tend to get a bit of spackle in them you can not remove with your finger, I used a small bit of styrene strip and occasionally the tip of an Exacto blade. I let it dry overnight and sprayed it with dullcoat in preperation of weathering, I was concerned with the spackle coming out, as Docwayne also wrote about. I haven't weathered mine yet, I will do so when I receive the cinder block sheet and can complete the model.

Wayne, thanks for the interior photo. I hadn't thought about the posts and beams, I will paint them white as well.

Gary
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#34
Really amazing work, Gary!! Looks fantastic!! And fun!! Thumbsup Thumbsup Thumbsup Thumbsup Thumbsup
I only know what I know, and I don't understand very much of it, either.
Member: AEA, American Legion, Lions Club International
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#35
Gary, have you searched Flikr's Library of Congress photos ? <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/library_of_congress/2178394729/in/set-72157603671370361/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/library_of ... 671370361/</a><!-- m --> is an example - think I used "Locomotive" as a search term in the 'LOC' 1930's & 40's - includes some RARE early Kodachromes. Bob C.
James Thurber - "It is better to know some of the questions than all of the answers."
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#36
Speaking of the Library of Conrgess, there's also the excellent HABS HAER site.

http://memory.loc.gov/ammem/collections/habs_haer/

Just type "roundhouse" into the search window and prepare to spend an hour or so browsing.

cheers
Val
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#37
I am very impressed and speechless.
Les
Les
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#38
WOW.....I think......WOW!
Torrington, Ct.
NARA Member #87
I went to my Happy Place, but it was closed for renovations.
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#39
I don't think there were interior walls in most roundhouses. I think they just had posts between the tracks to support the ceiling. There would really be no reason to divide the roundhouse into individual bays, and the walls would just make the inside more crowded. They might not have done heavy repairs in the round house, but any steam engine without roller bearings would need to have every bearing greased every time it came in off the road. From what I have heard, and I don't know if I have received the correct information on this, but a large steam engine could take 8 hours to complete a simple lube, inspection, refueling, topping off water, and sand before it would be ready to go back out on the road. The refueling, water, and sand filling would be done on an outside track adjacent to the round house, but all of the lubing, inspection, etc. would have been done in the round house. If heavier duty work was needed as a result of the inspection, the engine would then be moved to the back shop.

I think locomotives were also backed in to the roundhouse so that a minimum of smoke and soot would actually enter the roundhouse, but I may be mistaken on that count. The obvious exception to locomotives being backed in would be the Southern Pacific cab forwards since in reality they were designed to run "backwards."
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#40
Hi Russ, my mention of interior walls was meant to refer to just the inside surface of the exterior walls, not walls between stalls. I agree there would not be any! I believe steamers were just about always brought into a roundhouse in a forward direction, mainly so there would be more space available to work on them, look at how close the tenders are in any photos you find with locos inside the roundhouse. Yet there is a good deal of space at the other end. I agree lubing would be perhaps the most important work done in the roundhouse. Does anyone know of models of grease guns and air compressors, etc?

Thanks Les and 88, and thank you Val and Bob for the links, will check them out after the game today (tomorrow!)
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#41
Russ Bellinis Wrote:I think locomotives were also backed in to the roundhouse so that a minimum of smoke and soot would actually enter the roundhouse, but I may be mistaken on that count. The obvious exception to locomotives being backed in would be the Southern Pacific cab forwards since in reality they were designed to run "backwards."
Steam Locomotives were pulled in forward. There was a large ductwork for lack of a better term. That hung from the ceiling for the exhaust to exit the building Note there is a smoke stack for each track in most cases.
Les
Les
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#42
Very Impressive work Gary!! Keep up the great work, i like what you and Wayne have done with the mortar joints, i will definitely have to give that a shot Thumbsup

Looking forward to more pics Misngth
Josh Mader

Maders Trains
Offering everyday low prices for the Model Railroad World
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#43
Very nice work indeed. I would also think that giving the entire wall a painting of concrete paint then a wipe with a rag would also give some nice mortar, then a black wash to tone it down.
Lynn

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Great White North
Ontario,Canada
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#44
Maybe some more ideas, Gary...Yeah, I know, it's PRR ... but...this should be the photo gallery portion of the site - scroll or click down to "Roundhouse"...note the unusual smoke duct system, etc. <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://crestlineprr.com/PhotoGallery.html#rh">http://crestlineprr.com/PhotoGallery.html#rh</a><!-- m --> Enjoy. Bob C.
James Thurber - "It is better to know some of the questions than all of the answers."
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#45
It's REALLY great to see that you're making progress on the JGL! I'll be eagerly following this thread. Popcornbeer
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