Sumpter 250's duff challenge

[ray_m]

Nice work Pete.
You're making better progress than I am.

[Sumpter250]

I thought I posted this a few days ago, but apparently it didn't post -
I had to replace the pins on my 2-8-0 due to wear - I cut the pins as close to the counterweights as possible, drilled through the pin and counterweight and inserted a brass tube of the same diameter and epoxied in place. I then cut the brass tube the right length, and tapped for a 00-90 hex head screw. So far, it has worked great, and much better than the original pins.

:o ( sound of tires screeching to a shuddering halt ) :o
That could be a valuable piece of information for anyone who has and runs the MDC loco kits.
engage brain, and think 8-)
OK, but you didn't have to add an "eccentric crank" ( no, not a crabby old codger like me ) to the pin, to drive the valve gear. I did use 00-90 hex head screws to attach the drive rods to the crossheads, I never really cared for the original means of attachment.
The eccentric crank, with a small washer behind it, will hold the side rod,and the drive rod in place, on the pin. I can secure the eccentric cranks to the pins, once they are aligned correctly, with a touch of solder. A touch of "locktite" on the pin's threads will keep them secure in the counterweights.
I still would like to know where I could find that 0.023" ( the dia. of the MDC pin ) Brass tubing. I could find numerous uses for it.

[nachoman]

Looks like I used 0.062" tubing (1/16"). The pins on my counterweights were 0.052". I may have had to enlarge the holes in the side rods some, but I think there was enough slop it all fit just fine. I think I may have posted photos of the repair on the old site about 5 years ago.

[Sumpter250]

Just last night I was rooting around in the "junk Brass bin" and came across a short piece of 1/16" brass Tubing. I was surprised, because I still have no memory of its existence. :o
The crank pin in Cal-Scale # 190-384 "eccentrics" is the same diameter, and just a bit too long, but has the 0-80 threads already cut. I have two sets, so will use them for this project. The eccentric is a bit large for this size driver, so I will have to "scratch" four of them.
** Note to self ** On the next try, use the drill press to drill the counterweights. :oops: :oops: It's more accurately perpendicular that drilling by hand. :o **

[e-paw]

That's some great work you did there Sumpter. I love the articulates almost as much as I like Camels... I am watching this thread carefully because I think my next center-cab will use this drive.........    

[Sumpter250]

A "Camelback 2-6-6-2" 8-) :?: OK, you've got my attention.


Started on the main engine running gear, now that the front engine is working well. and have run into a bind in the rod motion. It's not the "usual thing", and I am suspecting there might be some small frame imperfection that is "compounding" the problem - - - - It's "play time" :o :oops: - - - I have to have both these units running smoothly, each step of the assembly process, or the loco won't run


This is beginning to sound like one of those "History Channel-High-Drama-If-I-Move-this-pebble-The-Whole-thing-will-Collapse-Moments"
:o :o I've been "contaminated by Schlock TV" !!! :oops: :oops:

[Tyson Rayles]

You will figure it out Pete, nothing gets past you!

[Sumpter250]

You will figure it out Pete, nothing gets past you!

Well, there are some things, like any "overtaking vehicles with flashing red lights and sirens - - - - - and time."

Yeah I will figure it out. Step one, is answering the age old question - - - -WHY ???
Once I know why, I can fix it.

[Sumpter250]

OK part of the "WHY ?", is that there is more than "one problem".
Fix the obvious one, the next one becomes "obvious" etc.,etc., etc., Ad Infinitum, ad Nauseum.
It is getting better, it will actually coast down a steep grade, but it looks like I might have a wheel center that' just a bit off, there's a lot of "wobble" in the main engines motion, that I don't have in the lead engine. I have to remember that I am working with "leftover parts", so there are bound to be a few setbacks here and there.
I'm still waiting on the new gearboxes, but there's enough to keep me busy during the wait. I need the gearboxes, to position the drive shaft, and then figure out just where, and at what angle to mount the motor in the tender.

[Sumpter250]

Finally, the mechanisms of both the main, and front engines are approaching "smooth operation". I'm still looking for a couple of minor binds, but they should be a bit easier to deal with now. Once all that business is finished, it will be time to start on the valve gear ( :o here we go again ??? :o )
Got a few minor details done on the tender, and am about to build the "sled" for the motor, that will mount in the tender tank.
One very happy situation, where this loco is being built by "the shipyard", I can pick and choose what, where, why, and how, for all the details. The only rule is " it has to at least look as if it had been done in prototype, so the "Hoover vacuum cleaner" attached to the top of the stack to improve draft, will be one of those ideas not modeled.

[Sumpter250]

Some progress;
The gearboxes are still not in yet, have to check with the Hobby Shop later today.
Sand lines for the main engine are in place, and the water lines from the injectors to the top feed check valve are done.
Also got the walkways attached, and the lead engine sandbox is "under construction"
   
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Two more details were built and installed in the cab. The Throttle Lever Assembly, and the Johnson Bar. I couldn't find appropriate castings for either of these, so, consulted, The Locomotive Cyclopedia 1941, for details, and constructed both.
   
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The tender got some attention. the foot boards, brake wheel, and railings on the tank body, are done.
The tank "end cap", is slightly skewed in this photo...it will be attached to the motor mount, once that is built, so the motor can be slid out of the tank for "maintenance". That whole assembly will be held in place with a screw up through the bottom of the tank.
   
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Most likely, the valve gear rods, hangers, etc., will be the next things to be fabricated. Once all the "mechanics" are done and installed, I can add the pilot and trailing trucks, and the pivot plate between the main and front engines.
The drive shafts will run forward from the motor, connected with cup and ball universal joints, and run along the center line of the frames, at just about the cab floor height. That's why there is a gap in the cab floor, seen in the second photo.

Oh, Yes, that is the former Uintah #50, Sumpter Valley Railway #250 ( United, Brass ), in the background.

[nachoman]

Very cool!

[Tyson Rayles]

[ezdays]

This challenge seems to bring out the best. You put the bar really high.

[Sumpter250]

This challenge seems to bring out the best. You put the bar really high.

Actually, I put the ' Bar ' , between the coaches and the observation car.

It's Winter, therefore "Cabin Fever" is setting in ! :o :o

Mike, back at you !