A second start for my "White Swan" reefers

[Schraddel]

Great idea to place the car onto the RIP track!

Lutz

[modelsof1900]

Thanks tetters, thanks Gus!

Tetters, I have made a few shots and photomontages to think about your idea/question.
First two pictures shown the present condition of models in comparison to other models.



An old 36' MDC reefer is right pictured and an 36' ATLAS reefer of their present old time reefer serie on left side. How you can see are the dimensions of ATLAS model a bit beside of reality, only they are well colored and lettered.



Second picture shows a floor level line in equal height on both cars - and so was my plan to build my models. Result is an well oversized model. Doc Wayne has written a value for the height of these cars in a former post and I have calculated that my model is well built, I think. So good, so far!

But now, your idea or question, tetters - and not a bad idea! I have made a few modifications at one of cars and I'm surprised. But look! (Meantime the roof sheating is added, too.)





I removed a brass cover from the original MDC coupler box and did set the body similarly deeper, around 1 mm or 0.04' and this is the result (right). I think it looks better and your question, Tetters, was come by the deep hanging coupler boxes, I think.
And now both "White Swans" in comparison with the other models.





The 'lowered car' with the dark door hinges can be clearly seen. This is particularly noticeable in the more trimmed wheel sets, I think - and the right model sits in contrast "on the wheels".
However I'm not sure in moment if I should rebuild all my models? Is this looking more realistic now?
If you like to compare the picture of the catalog here then you should say 'Yes'. But this is a picture that was made by a graphic artist. The body sits deep on trucks.
Do you have same impression showing this picture from original car with Carstens lettering?

And a fast addition - the direct comparison: lowered and original.


I'm very interested to read your arguments. Please write your ideas and thoughts. Thank you very much for your help!

And Lutz, I will not say you where the RIP track can be found.

[tetters]

I like both of them Bernhard. I don't think you could go wrong with either version of the model.

My question was more of a response to the picture you posted with what looked to me a modification you were making to make the coupler pocket sit deeper in the car body itself. That being said, based on the photograph and the even the artist's rendering of the car, I'd opt for the look that allows the car body to sit lower.

However, don't let my opinion force you to change your models. Like I said, they are fantastic either way.

[doctorwayne]

Bernhard, in looking at the photo of the real car and referring to my earlier estimation of the car's height, I judge that the top 3.5" of the car's wheels are hidden from view (in the prototype photo) by the lower edge of the car's siding. Since that photograph appears to have been taken with the camera at a point slightly higher than half of the car's overall height, the amount of wheel-top hidden by the siding would be somewhat less when viewed from a lower position. For that reason, I think that the lowered car is closer to the height of the prototype.


Wayne

[modelsof1900]

Doc, hello and thank you for your answer and the well-reasoned recommendation to switch to the lowered car.
I spoke with my friend who painted and decaled all models and at end two models will go to his inventory. He also favors this lowered models, especially because of the improved view of the coupling box. I must say that I have not seen this possibility of improvement before mounting the angles before. But I was surprised how good it looks now without the cover on the coupling box. We say 'Kill two flies with one swatter' - not so good in Englisch 'Kill two birds with one stone'. In this case I hope to get really good looking models.
Thanks again!

[modelsof1900]

First all cars are lowered - and they look good!

Next step - roof design, wooden roof sheathing is added already to all models. I must say that I must 'design' the roof because there no pictures or drawings are available.
First check ...


... with an aged and weathered roofwalk on a "new" roof sheathing - and two different ice hatches from Tichy parts in foreground and a simple part of old plastic kits. But I think that an so aged roofwalk and a good looking sheathing on roof including car sides can not be the solution.
Second attempt - all like new ...


... a roofwalk from "fresh planed" planks (Kappler wood strips) together with two ice hatches at each end mounted on platforms should be a very acceptable solution for thes cars. What do you think?
Of course all typical parts for roofwalk must be added, end supports, nails for fixing the planks or corner grab irons and a few more things etc. More pictures will follow again.

[jwb]

I would leave off the platform around the hatches. That is a somewhat later feature that often goes with a metal roof.

[modelsof1900]

JBW, you ae right.
The tichy ice hatches are very good modeled and so I would like to prefer the use if them. But I should check to change them to simple hatches without platform, maybe is that the better solution and fits better to the old wood roofs. Thanks for yout hint!

[doctorwayne]

Looking at the photo of the real car, it's difficult to tell where the hatches (hatch?) are/is actually located. The one which is visible at the left looks to me as if it's located on the far side of the car, and if so, it seems to be sitting fairly high. I'm not sure what's going on at the right end - there doesn't appear to be a hatch at all.

Wayne

[modelsof1900]

Doc, thank you very much for your thoughts about my project. But each answer will help to make the models a bit better.
Tomorrow I will get the fine drill bits in order to nail the planks of roofwalk onto the roof. And then I can start the next attempt with ice hatches. Pictures will follow.

[modelsof1900]

The roofwalks are glued on roof supports and what I would like to have - the free view under the planks.


Drilling holes for the supports of roofwalk ends using a drill jig.


Inserting four bolts with square heads ...


... and adding the supports - and ready are the supported roofwalk ends.


Ok, it was a bit more work than I have written here in two phrases. All bolts are inserted in pre-drilled holes and fixed by a drop of AC and it is fixed until end of car's life, I hope.

Fixing of planks has started.
Thin, very thin wire pieces are placed in pre-drilled holes, nailed with a very small hammer like real nails and grinded down on the ground. All.


The small problem - there are 110 "nails" per car and that five times. I think that the next post will follow in a month or so?

But first comes my question - again one. Or more.
In next picture I have sketched a few alternatives for plank laying of a roofwalk.


I nowhere did found pictures or drawings of divided planks of wooden roofwalks. I'm sure that never planks were laid in full car length. But how they were divided and were laid on the roof?
All cuts at one position how I have sketched in sample 1?
Or mixed with planks of varying lengths - Sketches 2 to 4?
What is your opinion? Do you know pictures of such samples or do you know other sources where I can get a few more info?
I would be lucky about your answers and ideas. Thank for your help!

[faraway]

Bernhard, the end and the support of the roof walks makes the difference. Simply outstanding!

[modelsof1900]

Reinhard, thanks!

[doctorwayne]

Bernhard, there are some roof photos HERE, HERE, HERE, and HERE. Simply click on the images to get an enlargement.

Most of the ones I've built have the outer strips done alike, while the middle strip uses different lengths so that none of the joints of adjacent boards align. That, however, is based more on my sense of what would be likely than anything which I've seen in photos.

You continue to outdo your previous efforts with every new build, and the bolt detail and fastening of the roofwalk end-braces looks like the strongest way to make that vulnerable connection. And the nails for the roofwalk boards....well, that's really gilding the lily.
While I do understand your passion for building in wood, I wonder about its use on these cars. The nails do address the issue of joining dissimilar materials, but I still would have opted for styrene. It can be made to look like unpainted wood (as were many roofwalks) and even moreso than real wood, as the woodgrain of most model-making wood does not scale-down all that well. Of course, that's the opinion of one who stopped using wood once I discovered styrene.

These cars, along with all of your other beautifully-done cars which have gone before, certainly cement your reputation as a master carbuilder.


Wayne

[e-paw]

What he said.....

These cars, along with all of your other beautifully-done cars which have gone before, certainly cement your reputation as a master carbuilder.