A second start for my "White Swan" reefers
#46
Doc, thank you very much for your compliment!
Cheers, Bernd

Please visit also my website www.us-modelsof1900.de.
You can read some more about my model projects and interests in my chronicle of facebook.
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#47
doctorwayne Wrote:Beautiful craftsmanship, Bernhard. I'm really looking forward to seeing the completed cars.

Wayne

Cheers I couldn't agree more. !! You set the bar awfully high for us mere mortals...
Gus (LC&P).
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#48
This is one of the cases where a paint finish is obvious to get a perfect model but it hides a lot of the craftsmanship. May be Bernhard will keep one with a clear finish only.
At the center of Hamburg close to the Jungfernstieg street was a model railroad shop with brass models when I was a little boy. They cost more than my dad made in a week and they were an unreachable dream for me. I am still not sure if I like brass steam models in a perfect black paint finish or with a clear satin finish only.
Reinhard
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#49
Gus and Reinhard, thanks, also!
And to build the models is all not a problem. What you need is a little perseverance to build one or the other part in several iterations.
Here a small sample.

[Image: whiteswan_067kp.jpg]

These small parts for fixing the adjusting lever of ice hatches are small angels made from plastic angel strips. I reduced the size from 1 by 1 mm (.040' x .040') to half of size and I reduced also the thickness of material. Each time I glued very short ends on roof and after fixing I cut of them to the wished length, I think shorter than one millimeter. And after I cut of the edges and wide again to get the small end shape. (I work permanently using magnifying lenses which I can set in front of my eyeglasses.)
Later - my friend Joerg, he is the painter for these models, came to visit me and he asked - 'Who needs such small parts? My colour covers that all!' I hope not! But I think from time to time - Should I do such fine detailing or can I forgot these (small) parts?
(But I love these modeling, so I think that I build them again with the next models.)
Cheers, Bernd

Please visit also my website www.us-modelsof1900.de.
You can read some more about my model projects and interests in my chronicle of facebook.
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#50
modelsof1900 Wrote:Should I do such fine detailing or can I forgot these (small) parts?
Gidday Bernhard, Are you modelling for yourself, or others? I wonder if detail that fine is worth it from the context that, without your camera wofk and the arrow pointing to the angles, the Great Unwashed (and to be fair I could fall into that category), would actually notice! I've done a couple of rough and ready replacements of moulded grab irons with wire ones, and a couple of kitbashs that others haven't even noticed, but I know what I've done and while praise from my peers is nice, it's my fun and satisfaction that is most important. Besides without getting ideas above my station I have to wonder if I have moved on from my peers.

modelsof1900 Wrote:(But I love these modeling, ....
You've answered your own question. Please keep on enjoying yourself, and astounding, and inspiring me while you're at it. Worship Cheers
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
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#51
Jabear is right...Self-satisfaction is why we take our modeling to whatever level we choose...
If others like it, that's good...If not, it's their loss....
Gus (LC&P).
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#52
Maybe that you remember on my "White Swan" reefer project, one that was interrupted a very long time because I must wait on lost wax brass parts.

[Image: whiteswan-tuerverriegelung_02.jpg]

This door lock mechanism were constructed by a friend and a professional model maker printed this master after dates of my friend.

[Image: whiteswan-tuerverriegelung-3d_2k.jpg]

However that was back in April last year.
The problem was to cast the brass parts. One of the fine hand grips (on picture the connections between the shafts) was not filled by molten brass and it needed three or four new attempts with changed and new printed pattern until the parts were successfully molded.
This is the result now.

[Image: whiteswan-tuerverriegelung_04k.jpg]

And so looks the first experimantal installed door lock mechanism mounted on a reefer door.

[Image: whiteswan-tuerverriegelung_06k.jpg]

[Image: whiteswan-tuerverriegelung_08k.jpg]

[Image: whiteswan-tuerverriegelung_09k.jpg]

I think that will be well usable. Have you seen the small padlock for securing the hand grip?
The shaft has same diameter as plastic parts made by Grandt Line also when it looks a bit thick.
Now I can continue with preparations of all other cars and then they will go to my friend for painting - without door locks.
They will be mounted after painting together with grab irons and some more superdetailing parts.
Cheers, Bernd

Please visit also my website www.us-modelsof1900.de.
You can read some more about my model projects and interests in my chronicle of facebook.
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#53
Bernhard, your details are breath taking.
Reinhard
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#54
I agree: a work of art. Worship

Wayne
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#55
Reinhard, Doc, thank you very much!
Cheers, Bernd

Please visit also my website www.us-modelsof1900.de.
You can read some more about my model projects and interests in my chronicle of facebook.
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#56
Impressive museum-quality custom pieces. Your dedication to detail inspire deep respect, particularly recasting an already nice resin part into brass.

Matt
Proudly modelling Quebec Railway Light & Power Company since 1997.

Hedley-Junction Club Layout: http://www.hedley-junction.blogspot.com/

Erie 149th Street Harlem Station http://www.harlem-station.blogspot.com/
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#57
I had to think really hard but I’m sure that I’ve never used the word “exquisite” before to describe modelling, so this is a first. Worship
Cheers, the Bear. Smile
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
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#58
Matt, Bear, thank you very much to you also!

Matt, there was another background for using brass for these door lock mechanisms.
My first idea was to use 3D-printing technology for these door look mechanism and I asked a professional model builder for printing - 10 pieces. However that would be a lot of money because he works on a very expensive printer with a very fine printing resolution. So we decided to print one piece only and after to use this as master for the brass mold. Unfortunately there were a lot of problems with the fine structures until he received a usable result. At end he modified the printing file some times, printed three or four new masters until we have obtained the brass parts in a good quality.
However I was very lucky with decision for using brass as material because the long shaft does not sit directly on door wings but the shaft is mounted with a bit distance away from backside. With this the parts are many more sturdy as plastic and this should be an advantage.
Unfortunately I had to strengthen the thickness of shaft from wished and well looking and 0.4 mm diameter (0.015") to 0.5 mm (0.02") and so I have relative thick shafts now. However nobody wanted to make attempts using this finer dimension - not realizable!
Cheers, Bernd

Please visit also my website www.us-modelsof1900.de.
You can read some more about my model projects and interests in my chronicle of facebook.
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#59
modelsof1900 Wrote:Matt, Bear, thank you very much to you also!

Matt, there was another background for using brass for these door lock mechanisms.
My first idea was to use 3D-printing technology for these door look mechanism and I asked a professional model builder for printing - 10 pieces. However that would be a lot of money because he works on a very expensive printer with a very fine printing resolution. So we decided to print one piece only and after to use this as master for the brass mold. Unfortunately there were a lot of problems with the fine structures until he received a usable result. At end he modified the printing file some times, printed three or four new masters until we have obtained the brass parts in a good quality.
However I was very lucky with decision for using brass as material because the long shaft does not sit directly on door wings but the shaft is mounted with a bit distance away from backside. With this the parts are many more sturdy as plastic and this should be an advantage.
Unfortunately I had to strengthen the thickness of shaft from wished and well looking and 0.4 mm diameter (0.015") to 0.5 mm (0.02") and so I have relative thick shafts now. However nobody wanted to make attempts using this finer dimension - not realizable!

I understand the economics behind professional printing. That was the best decision. I wouldn't trust printed material strenght for such a delicate part.

A 9mm (real life) discrepancies seems to be quite acceptable! Thumbsup

Matt
Proudly modelling Quebec Railway Light & Power Company since 1997.

Hedley-Junction Club Layout: http://www.hedley-junction.blogspot.com/

Erie 149th Street Harlem Station http://www.harlem-station.blogspot.com/
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#60
Matt,
thanks and sorry for the late answer.
However I will like to write about these details and the discrepancies.
No, I'm not absolutely lucky about these "fat" shafts, 9 mm is a plus of 25% to that what I would like to have. And so I reflect to make some changes, also if this will be a lot work. I will write abaut this if the ideas are grown and work has started. I know that this will be a very difficult work because I plan to drill a lot of holes into parts which are not many larger as holes self. I hope very much that I can master this work.
Cheers, Bernd

Please visit also my website www.us-modelsof1900.de.
You can read some more about my model projects and interests in my chronicle of facebook.
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