Ten-Wheelers for the Grand Valley....
#16
WOW. You make those cylinder modifications look easy. That has always been one area I haven't touched.

I like following your steam locomotive modifications. Your locos always appear to have more detail than mine, and I find myself looking at yours for details that I am missing. Of course, I am modeling an era when locos had fewer appliances, but I think if I added things like brake shoes on the drivers and ropes for the bells and whistle, they would look much better.
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Kevin
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#17
A little bit of an update, as the two Ten Wheelers now have their pilot decks and front steps, along with deck-mounted air tanks:

[Image: Ten-WheelersfortheGrandValley022.jpg]

[Image: Ten-WheelersfortheGrandValley028.jpg]

Wayne
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#18
My comments echo Kevin's:
1) amazed that the boiler fits
2) impressed with the cylinder modifications

I look forward to seeing how you detail them.
Michael
My primary goal is a large Oahu Railway layout in On3
My secondary interests are modeling the Denver, South Park, & Pacific in On3 and NKP in HO
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#19
Progress is slow on these two locos, but I've finally got most of the feedwater piping in place. I've also replaced the locomotive's brake cylinders for the drivers - they broke off while other work was being performed. These are cast metal parts, and snapped off where the mounting pin enters the loco's frame. I managed to drill-out what was left of the larger mounting pegs, then created new mounting pins from wire.

[Image: 100_5495.jpg]


The lifting injectors (black plastic) are from Bachmann's Consolidation (I bought a bunch of cabs to use on all my Grand Valley locos, and they come with the boiler casting, too). This provides lots of extra detail parts, although I decided to use top feed check valves on these two locos. Those parts are from PSC. I used brass wire for the line from the injectors to the check valve, connecting to the injectors with a short section of reamed-out brass tubing, while all of the brass-to-brass connections are soldered.

[Image: 100_5502.jpg]

As was done on my Consolidations and re-worked Moguls, I added the actuating rods for the injectors using phosphor-bronze wire:

[Image: 100_5503.jpg]


By adding a styrene spacer strip on the boiler-side of the backhead from the Bachmann 10-Wheeler's original boiler, I was able to include it on these locos. The spacer allows it to clear the rear of the motor. To facilitate dis-assembly, the backhead is cemented to the cab floor. One of the more difficult tasks during this kind of re-build is ensuring that all work is solidly done, yet still allows dis-assembly - In this case, it's simply to allow the cab window "glass" to be added after the loco is painted. Beyond that, cab and boiler will be removeable as a unit.
Also visible below is one of the lead blocks where the fireman's seatbox would normally be located - these help to counterbalance the weight of the cast metal boiler and the lead-filled air tanks.

[Image: 100_5504.jpg]

The next task will be the air system, including the compressor, cooling coils and piping, and the other air tanks.

Wayne
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#20
Yeah! Is that a X'mas present for us!

Always a pleasure to follow your kitbashes. I really like how you reuse parts and piece them together with brass and other material.

Matt
Proudly modelling Quebec Railway Light & Power Company since 1997.

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#21
Really impressive ! Worship
Mike

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#22
Amazing stuff as always! Thumbsup
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#23
Great stuff Doc. With Christmas right around the corner I haven't had time to do any work on my trains, so I'm living vicariously through your work.
 My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew  
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#24
Thanks for the encouraging words, guys. Work continues, but slowly, so no new pictures just yet. Wink

e-paw Wrote:.........I'm living vicariously through your work.


Hah! That's life in the slow lane for sure. Misngth Misngth

Wayne
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#25
Hallo Doc,

I'm surprised each time new, what you start for complex projects on base of very simple built base models. Congratulation for each new model and here especially for a new engine!
I'm surprised each time for the combination of different materials for modifying and adding to more or less cheap models - and each time with great success, with great know-how and craftsmanship. Wish you much success and I must say that I am a bit jealous of your beautiful locomotive models, all together! I own a small number of brass models but they need all more or less modifications and only two or three are usable for running on a layout. I love to build and modify cars however to revise engines? That means for me every time a great overcoming. All the more I love and respect your successes and especially your engines.
But now, in the next year I want to break through this line. I want to end the current two-car projects and then start with a large locomotive project - the revision by me on most beloved locomotive model, the Virginian Class AE. I'm not sure if I'll get a super detailed model, but the locomotive has to drive very well and most importantly get a good track running quality. Because that's how it looks now with the model is far from any usefulness! And I will of course here in the forum about this project!

Best wishes to upcomming year to you, Wayne, and all the members here in Big Blue!
Cheers, Bernd

Please visit also my website www.us-modelsof1900.de.
You can read some more about my model projects and interests in my chronicle of facebook.
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#26
modelsof1900 Wrote:....then start with a large locomotive project - the revision by me on most beloved locomotive model, the Virginian Class AE. I'm not sure if I'll get a super detailed model, but the locomotive has to drive very well and most importantly get a good track running quality. Because that's how it looks now with the model is far from any usefulness! And I will of course here in the forum about this project!

That's a "large locomotive project" for sure Bernhard. Eek

I agree that a locomotive should, above all, perform well. Sometimes details must be simplified or omitted in order to create a good-looking locomotive which runs well and stays on the track. Another important consideration is that the added detail should not make it difficult to service the locomotive. For that reason, some of the piping on these locos will attach to the boiler, while the other ends of the same pipes will be separate pieces attached to the frame. With the removal of three screws, the boiler/cab assembly can be lifted from the running gear. Wink

I am sure that your skill and attention to detail will result in a strong and smooth-running locomotive which also looks more than good enough to be seen in a display case. Thumbsup Thumbsup

Wayne
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#27
Wayne, thanks! See my preview.
Cheers, Bernd

Please visit also my website www.us-modelsof1900.de.
You can read some more about my model projects and interests in my chronicle of facebook.
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#28
Finally, a little more progress to show, with most of the air system's piping in place. I still need to add pipe hangers for the two pipes extending forward from beneath the engineer's side of the cab (they duck behind the air tank on that side, and will re-appear on the pilot beam as air and signal lines). They're also fastened only temporarily under the cab floor, as the entire cab will have to come off in order to install the window "glass" after the loco has been painted. After that, the cab will be permanently attached to the boiler and all of the appropriate piping.


[Image: Ten-WheelersfortheGrandValley035.jpg]

[Image: Ten-WheelersfortheGrandValley032.jpg]


Wayne
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#29
Can't wait for paint. Cheers
 My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew  
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#30
Wayne, that is a great start for the new year. Wonderful.
Charlie
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