Old Steamers
#31
*** In these two photos are seen the three Teakettles showing their differences.
frank



       
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!!
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#32
Lots of great old steamers here... keep them coming!

I don't model much in the summer, as nice weather here is regrettably brief, but I've done some work this fall and winter so far. I found some more Bowser kits, including a E-6, an Old Lady Connie, and a Challenger to go with my K4s. I've been working on the E-6:

   

Unfortunately, all of these kits are missing parts, even ones with factory sealed bags. Bowser has sent me some parts, and sold me some, but I'm still short lots of parts. I've found some on eBay, but the Old Lady in particular is missing the most. Most of the missing stuff is hardware, but the back of the cab could be a problem, so I'll try to make one out of styrene.

I also seem to have got a reputation for liking "old junk." I was given this from an estate:

   

It's a Bachmann (not a Spectrum) 4-8-4, and it seems to have broken axles. Apparently the best fix is to buy a mechanism from Bowser, but they don't make them any more. Any advice?

I was also given this, after someone saw my Big Boy Remotor:

   

Not sure what I'm going to do with it, but the tender (not pictured) will go with my Challenger as soon as I can figure out how to get into it.

So I've got hours of fun to look forward to in the basement this winter!
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#33
gna Wrote:....it seems to have broken axles. Apparently the best fix is to buy a mechanism from Bowser, but they don't make them any more. Any advice?...

It's been a long time since I had one of those Bachmann Northerns, but if I recall correctly, those locomotives have split axles which press onto an inner metal axle. The portion of the plastic which slips over the metal tends to split, which then allows that, and the driver attached to it, to slip out of quarter, stopping the locomotive. I used ca to cement mine in place - it's not a permanent fix, though, as it doesn't adhere well to that type of plastic.
As I said, it's been a long time, but a possible solution might be to encase the mid-portion of those plastic axles in brass tubing. You'd need to ensure, though, that the tubing doesn't touch the frame of the locomotive, which I think is metal. The reason for the split axle set-up is because current pick-up is via the drivers only, so if the tubing touches the frame, it'll likely short things out.
For this repair to be effective, the tubing needs to be a tight fit around the plastic portion of the axle.

I repaired a split axle gear in a Proto USRA 0-8-0 using this method, and had to ream-out (using consecutively-larger drill bits) the tubing until it was a press fit onto the hub of the gear. I used numbered drill bits, which have smaller increments of change between consecutive sizes than do fractional-sized bits.

Wayne
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#34
Quote:
doctorwayne Wrote:
gna Wrote:....it seems to have broken axles. Apparently the best fix is to buy a mechanism from Bowser, but they don't make them any more. Any advice?...

It's been a long time since I had one of those Bachmann Northerns, but if I recall correctly, those locomotives have split axles which press onto an inner metal axle. The portion of the plastic which slips over the metal tends to split, which then allows that, and the driver attached to it, to slip out of quarter, stopping the locomotive. I used ca to cement mine in place - it's not a permanent fix, though, as it doesn't adhere well to that type of plastic.
As I said, it's been a long time, but a possible solution might be to encase the mid-portion of those plastic axles in brass tubing. You'd need to ensure, though, that the tubing doesn't touch the frame of the locomotive, which I think is metal. The reason for the split axle set-up is because current pick-up is via the drivers only, so if the tubing touches the frame, it'll likely short things out.
For this repair to be effective, the tubing needs to be a tight fit around the plastic portion of the axle.

I repaired a split axle gear in a Proto USRA 0-8-0 using this method, and had to ream-out (using consecutively-larger drill bits) the tubing until it was a press fit onto the hub of the gear. I used numbered drill bits, which have smaller increments of change between consecutive sizes than do fractional-sized bits.

Wayne

I had some time today to work on locos. Here's what the Northern looks like on the inside:

   

It looks like all the plastic axles are cracked:

   

Doesn't look like there's much room for brass tubing--maybe a ring? I also have some special Loc-Tite for plastics I could try. I don't hold out a lot of hope for the repair, though. Poking around the interwebz leads me to believe it's a fairly common problem. A few people looked into 3D printing gears on Shapeway, so I may check that out.

I also worked on my E6, testing it on DC, then Installing a TCS T1 decoder with temporary wiring:

   

Runs ok, but lots of minor problems--screw backing out, stray metal screw on bench sticking to motor when fixing :oops: Think I've got it now. It needs to run quite a bit more to break it in.

Any guesses what I'm trying to model here?

   
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#35
Well, the photos illustrate the validity of my memory quite well. Wallbang Misngth

You may be able to use either Evergreen styrene tubing or, perhaps more preferably, the harder plastic tubing from Plastruct, to replace the sleeves on the non-geared drivers. Use a short section of the next biggest size to re-create the centering hub mid-axle.
The geared driver presents more of a problem...NorthWest Short Line offers a replacement gear for the Bachmann "Daylight" 4-8-4, but I think that it may not fit any of the other Northern types. You could send Dave an e-mail at NWSL to see what he has to offer. I'm surprised that they don't list replacement parts for all axles on Bachmann Northerns, as I'd think there to be more of them needing such a repair than the number of Daylight GS-4s out there.

If it were mine, and I really needed to get it back in service, I'd attempt to enlarge the slot for the geared driver, then use brass tubing sleeves over the plastic hubs. There's already some slop in the slots anyway, so if you measure the total amount needing to be removed, using calipers, you can then reset them to half of that amount and set the points on a divider to match. You can then use the divider's tips to scribe the frame halves around the slots for the geared driver. A flat file will do the vertical portions, and you can finish the curve at the base of the slots with a round needle file.
(A decent set of dividers will allow you to adjust the length of the tips, so that one can be positioned slightly longer than the other. The half-measurement from the calipers is then transferred from the inside edge of the longer tip to the tip of the shorter one. When the long tip is placed against the inner face of the slot, the dividers can be slid down into the slot, around the bottom and back up the other side, with the short tip scribing a line indicating the amount of material needing to be removed.)

If you're really ambitious, you could do all of the slots in this manner, and then use brass tubing on all axles for a more permanent repair.

gna Wrote:.....Runs ok, but lots of minor problems--screw backing out, stray metal screw on bench sticking to motor when fixing :oops: Think I've got it now. It needs to run quite a bit more to break it in.

One cure that works well for screws which back themselves out as the locomotive runs, is to coat the threaded end of the screw with contact cement. Let it dry for the time specified on the tube or container, then re-install the screw. The contact cement provides enough resistance that it usually won't back-out on its own, but because the screw isn't actually glued in place, it can be removed easily if necessary.

Contact cement works in a similar manner if you have Kadee couplers losing their knuckle springs on a regular basis. This was more common on the early Kadees of the '50s, which used a mechanical, rather than magnetic, method for uncoupling. Simply apply a tiny dab of contact cement to one (or both) nubs on which the springs are mounted, then, while the cement is still wet, re-install the spring. The coupler will function as it should, and the springs will stay in place.


gna Wrote:....Any guesses what I'm trying to model here?...

I'm certainly no authority on Pennsy operations (or anything else, for that matter Crazy ), but I'll hazard a guess that it's something to do with the Pennsylvania-Reading Seashore Lines.

Wayne
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#36
doctorwayne Wrote:Well, the photos illustrate the validity of my memory quite well. Wallbang Misngth

If it were mine, and I really needed to get it back in service, I'd attempt to enlarge the slot for the geared driver, then use brass tubing sleeves over the plastic hubs. There's already some slop in the slots anyway, so if you measure the total amount needing to be removed, using calipers, you can then reset them to half of that amount and set the points on a divider to match. You can then use the divider's tips to scribe the frame halves around the slots for the geared driver. A flat file will do the vertical portions, and you can finish the curve at the base of the slots with a round needle file.
(A decent set of dividers will allow you to adjust the length of the tips, so that one can be positioned slightly longer than the other. The half-measurement from the calipers is then transferred from the inside edge of the longer tip to the tip of the shorter one. When the long tip is placed against the inner face of the slot, the dividers can be slid down into the slot, around the bottom and back up the other side, with the short tip scribing a line indicating the amount of material needing to be removed.)

If you're really ambitious, you could do all of the slots in this manner, and then use brass tubing on all axles for a more permanent repair.

Thanks for the advice, doctorwayne. No, I don't need to get it back into service. It was given to me because I like "old junk." I do like to tinker, though, so I may try your prescription, or I may try these: https://www.shapeways.com/product/PJUUQ9...le-centers I can certainly send an email to NWSL, too.

doctorwayne Wrote:
gna Wrote:....Any guesses what I'm trying to model here?...

I'm certainly no authority on Pennsy operations (or anything else, for that matter Crazy ), but I'll hazard a guess that it's something to do with the Pennsylvania-Reading Seashore Lines.

Wayne

Not quite....Pennsy E6-B60B baggage car-P70 coach--anyone?
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#37
gna Wrote:....Not quite....Pennsy E6-B60B baggage car-P70 coach--anyone?

Aha!! The 1223 and the so-called "Lindbergh" train. Apparently, it also saw some time on the Strasburg line, too.

Those printed parts look like an affordable solution, but are the Bachmann axles a square cross-section?

Wayne
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#38
doctorwayne Wrote:
gna Wrote:....Not quite....Pennsy E6-B60B baggage car-P70 coach--anyone?

Aha!! The 1223 and the so-called "Lindbergh" train. Apparently, it also saw some time on the Strasburg line, too.

Ding-Ding-Ding! We have a winner!

I don't model the Pennsy (well, I guess I do now :oops: ), but I learned about the Lindbergh trainwhen researching the E6. PRR 460 was saved and fully restored in late 2016, in time for the 90th anniversary of its run: https://www.facebook.com/events/152563981876893/ Looks like my tender is incorrect, though...

doctorwayne Wrote:Those printed parts look like an affordable solution, but are the Bachmann axles a square cross-section?

Wayne

Let me look--mine are not. I suppose I could email the seller and ask about the parts.
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#39
Gna:
One of the British manufacturers had a similar problem. One firm is now supplying replacement bushes for the axles.
If you measure the stub axle diameter and other sizes, I'll compare to the bits I have. They also made a replacement geared axle -- can you measure that and count the teeth?


(On mine, I have 3 0-6-0Ts, and not enough whole axles to get one running.)
David
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.
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#40
BR60103 Wrote:Gna:
One of the British manufacturers had a similar problem. One firm is now supplying replacement bushes for the axles.
If you measure the stub axle diameter and other sizes, I'll compare to the bits I have. They also made a replacement geared axle -- can you measure that and count the teeth?


(On mine, I have 3 0-6-0Ts, and not enough whole axles to get one running.)
Thanks--When I measure the plastic axles, they seem to be .38" (9.7mm) long, .15" (3.9mm) around, and it fits a 2mm shaft on the drivers. Two of the axles have round center pieces, and one has a square center piece. Not sure if that matters.

   

The gear is a 24T, .52" (13.3mm) OD and .06" (1.5mm) wide, and the shaft is also .38" long, .15" (3.9mm) around, fitting a 2mm shaft. I think this NWSL gear is essentially it, with some small errors in measurement creeping in: http://shop.osorail.com/product.sc?produ...egoryId=97

   

I found the shapeways guy on a different forum and sent him a pm, but he hasn't responded yet, so I may need to join Shapeways to email him. I have to say, square shafts would make getting the quartering correct much easier...
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#41
The ones I have are shown as out of stock.
They come from <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.petersspares.com/">http://www.petersspares.com/</a><!-- m --> and are Bachmann J72 -- others might fit.
Mine are 2mm inside, 4mm outside, 9.6mm long. The gear wheel is 13.35mm over the teeth, 11mm or so at the gum line. The gear is heavily offset. I forgot to count the teeth.
BM227 plastic axle spacers. There are a few others that look similar.
Price is nearly GBP 10 for 3 axles.
David
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.
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#42
I keep working on these projects. The E-6 had some gear lash trouble, but I think I've got it now. Only problem is it stalls at some turnouts, so I may need to add pickup to both sides of the loco.

I've been working with the Old Lady Connie, and it's been difficult. I was able to get most of the missing pieces from eBay or Bowser, and bought missing screws from the hadware store. Unfortunately, the drivers didn't fit in the frame well, so I had to file the frame, and getting them even was not easy. I may not have it right--it seems to slip much of the time. Would more weight help?

I replaced the motor magnet with some Super magnets:

   

I also made a drawbar and back of cab:

   

The first drawbar was too close. It looked good, but it pushed the loco off the rails on curves. Runs ok, but doesn't pull great. Also stalls on some turnouts, so all wheel pickup would help.

I also pulled this loco out:

   

This is a Tyco Little 6 that I built when I was 12. I brushed painted it with those Pactra enamels they used to sell at the drugstore with the plastic model airplanes. I cleaned the wheels and pickup, lubed it, and it runs surprisingly well. It could use super magnets in the motor, too, to drop the current draw. I may even put a decoder in it so I can run it on my layout.
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#43
gna Wrote:.....This is a Tyco Little 6.... I cleaned the wheels and pickup, lubed it, and it runs surprisingly well. It could use super magnets in the motor, too, to drop the current draw. I may even put a decoder in it so I can run it on my layout.

I've got one of those, too, but mine was never a very good runner, as it has brass drivers - okay when they've just been cleaned, but they tarnish pretty quickly.

Wayne
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#44
GNA, just noticed in this thread you have a Bowser E6. I have a completed one of those also set up for DCC. Best running Bowser I got. Has a Helix Humper motor in it.

I like playing around with these old locos. I've been tempted lately to pull the trigger on a John English mikado or pacific but I'm holding for one that comes with the valve gear on it already. Good luck with completing your build Thumbsup .

Mark
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#45
twilight Wrote:....I've been tempted lately to pull the trigger on a John English mikado or pacific but I'm holding for one that comes with the valve gear on it already....

I've got one of those Pacifics, Mark, but it's in the shop right now for some mechanical upgrades and a makeover, too...

[Image: Foe-toesfromTrainPhotos2007thirdcd2.jpg]

Wayne
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