Gap-Cutting Razor Saw
I'm looking for a razor saw to cut an electrical gap (to then be filled in with styrene or another insulating material) in a HO nickel-silver track rail. I'd prefer to buy just one, though I see that X-ACTO makes the saw set in this link:

Zona also sells a number of individual saws, but from its website it's not clear which is appropriate - or best - for cutting rail.

I'd appreciate suggestions on Zona models that'll do the job, as well as other makes and models.

Thank you.
While any of those razor saws will cut a gap in your rail, I prefer to use a cut-off disc in a motor tool (Dremel, etc.). 

I've found that the saw can "catch" on the rail, and that often results in the rail being pulled from the moulded-on spikeheads on both sides of the gap, removing many of those spikeheads.  You then need to straighten the rail and then use real spikes (in the appropriate scale, of course) to re-install the errant rail.

Some people eschew the cut-off disc method because it makes the cut on an angle due to the size of the motor tool, but there's no particular need for the gap to be vertical.  Once it's filled with plastic (I prefer Plastruct's ABS, as it's not only tougher than styrene, but it's also dark grey - needs no paint, and therefore won't change colour due to normal track cleaning or having trains constantly running over it), nobody'll notice if the cut is angled.

In the photo below, there's a gap, filled with ABS plastic, in each of the two adjacent rails...

[Image: Shinohara%20turnout.jpg]

If one is really bothered by an angled cut, a flexible shaft drive is available for most motor tools, allowing the cut-off disc to be at 90° to the rail.  I use a cut-off disc a lot more than I use a razor saw, and for all sorts of jobs besides cutting rail gaps.

If the track is in-place, I agree with Wayne. If you don't have a rotary tool, I'd suggest that as your next power tool purchase. You can use a razor saw, but it's a pain to avoid nicking adjacent rails, and you wear out the saw rather quickly.

If the track is not yet in-place, I like to use a jewelers saw. Typically this situation happens when I am building my own turnouts on the workbench and I need to cut a gap to isolate a frog.
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What Kevin and Wayne said. If I didn't have a rotary tool I wouldn't even get out of bed in the morning! Big Grin

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You need a saw with small enough teeth that 2 or 3 are in contact with the rail head. I started with an Atlas one (50+ years ago) with a lot of small teeth and a wavy blade. Don't think it's available anymore.
Whatever, saw or Dremel, you should get a tool that's a little plastic block with slots that fit on the rail. This holds the rail in place so it's less likely to pull out of the spikes.
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Thanks for the suggestions!

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