Representing Brake Gear - More Art Than Science
#1
Over on my Andrew's Trains site I've been working away at (and writing up how I've been) upgrading the Athearn Blue Box XAF10 Railbox cars 
(and yes I know they are not exact - but they're cheap and I have a few of them to upgrade and add to my fleet).

For more information you can head on over to the main site but I wanted to share some photos of the progress so far. 
This is a multi-part project that I've been working on for some time as I get a few moments.

Here are some excerpts from the article on adding brake gear (as art versus science):

"This article provides a method to model the brake rodding of an AAR AB air brake system to get the maximum look with minimum effort. 
Train lines and brake-system piping exist on all freight cars; 
the design of many car types (especially boxcars, flat cars, and gondolas) makes it difficult if not impossible to see in regular operation. 
Providing simplified brake gear without all that piping, and the time and materials required to install, 
improves the look of your freight fleet and can be done in a short time (usually an hour or so)."

"I’d like to thank Tony Thompson from the ‘Modeling the SP Blog’ who was the inspiration for this article. 
(See the Resources section at the bottom of this page for a link to Tony’s original blog post.) 
Tony’s minimalist brake line modelling omits piping and any other items of brake gear that are out of site on freight cars as we would ‘normally’ view them. 
Tony’s approach makes sense on a running model; after all if you can’t see it then why should you model it?"

I took my inspiration from Tony Thompson's excellent article on his blog. 
All of that detail is in the original post on my site. 
Let me know your thoughts. 
Images in the next post.

Visit the original post here using WordPress short codes: https://wp.me/P47pPY-Sz
Regards
Andrew Martin
Visit the blog and the small layout design site: https://huntervalleylines.wordpress.com
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#2
To give context, here is a model before the rodding:
[Image: XAF10_Before_Brake_Rodding.jpg?w=610&h=204]

And an after shot (same model just undecorated)
[Image: XAF10_After_Brake_Rodding.jpg?w=610&h=206]

I'll be working on some underfloor weathering today and tomorrow and hope to be post some pictures of the rodding once this is done. 

That will tone down the brass and silver of the staples.
Regards
Andrew Martin
Visit the blog and the small layout design site: https://huntervalleylines.wordpress.com
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#3
More photos from the Sebastopol shops RIP track:
[Image: img_4061.jpg?w=640&h=360]

Works in progress as I'm updating my boxcar fleet. 
There are a few more to complete.
Regards
Andrew Martin
Visit the blog and the small layout design site: https://huntervalleylines.wordpress.com
For modelling articles and gallery (click Website button below)
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#4
Last night I began weathering some of the car undersides to get an idea of how the work will look once operating on the layout. 
While I was a little worried that the rodding would stick out like well... , insert your idea of things that stick out here, 
I'm glad that I've proceeded to this point.

Southern 36188 - An E&C shops kit of the PS-1 50' Boxcar.
[Image: southern_36188_basic_underframe_weatheri...=620&h=247]

From a lower point of view the rodding detail on this car disappears into the background clutter of hard angles and shadow (image taken in reflected sunlight on my workbench – late afternoon – with nice and flat tones). There is further weathering to be done on this car underside, but I like what I see so far.

XAF10 class prototype car - the Athearn BB (Railbox) Kit
[Image: xaf10_prototype_car_after_brake_rodding_...=620&h=249]

This is the one that had me worried that I'd made things too big and obvious using the 0.020 thou brass rod. 
With the base weathering on and the car upside down everything appears to be 'in scale' so I'm greatly relieved with the work so far.

The original post is live on the HVL blog now with a couple more images for context
Thanks for stopping by to read this post.
Regards
Andrew Martin
Visit the blog and the small layout design site: https://huntervalleylines.wordpress.com
For modelling articles and gallery (click Website button below)
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#5
I thought I’d share more work done weathering the Southern Boxcar underframe and sides. It’s interesting to see how the added brake gear has become just another part of the model, and no longer seems to dominate the underframe, just as I had hoped it would.

[Image: southern_36188_basic_weathering_started_...g?w=620&h=]

The underframe weathering is what I consider to be just right (considering that it will be hard to see). I had to add a bright white background behind the model for it to show up. Very pleased with how this work has come out. It looks perfectly functional, and most importantly, looks the business.
 
You can read the entire post on my Blog by clicking this link

Thanks for following along and enjoy the day.
Regards
Andrew Martin
Visit the blog and the small layout design site: https://huntervalleylines.wordpress.com
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#6
Nicely done, Andrew.   Applause Applause Applause

While I'll occasionally add the piping on a model, it's usually only for the sake of doing it, as no one will see it unless you're in the habit of having dramatic roll-over-type derailments as part of your regular operating sessions....

This scratchbuilt car was an experimental project....

[Image: SCRATCHBUILT%20SEABOARD%201932%20ARA%20B...%20017.jpg]

[Image: SCRATCHBUILT%20SEABOARD%201932%20ARA%20B...%20069.jpg]

On cars like these Train Miniature boxcars, I backdate them by carving away the major AB brake components (moulded as either part of the underbody or the separately-applied frame) then simply add KD or KC brake gear from Tichy, along with only a representation of the rodding...

[Image: NewYearsChallengePhotos155.jpg]

[Image: NewYearsChallengePhotos102.jpg]

[Image: NewYearsChallengePhotos104.jpg]

[Image: NewYearsChallengePhotos103.jpg]

Even very basic models, like this Tyco gondola, can be improved with such upgrades...

[Image: 2016-2017%20CHALLENGE%20CARS...%20041.jpg]

I usually do, however, add at least the basic piping to tank cars, since it's more visible, as seen on this shortened Varney tank (free, at a train show) on a Tichy underframe....

[Image: NewYearsChallengePhotos147.jpg]

[Image: NewYearsChallengePhotos154.jpg]

[Image: NewYearsChallengePhotos167.jpg]

Wayne
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#7
(01-28-2019, 12:42 PM)doctorwayne Wrote: Nicely done, Andrew.   Applause Applause Applause

While I'll occasionally add the piping on a model, it's usually only for the sake of doing it, as no one will see it unless you're in the habit of having dramatic roll-over-type derailments as part of your regular operating sessions....
Wayne

Wayne;
Love your work. I particularly like the work on the tank car. I have a couple of shorty corn syrup cars to do at some point. Going to take your car as an idea starter and take alook at them.

Great photos. THanks for sharing.
Regards
Andrew Martin
Visit the blog and the small layout design site: https://huntervalleylines.wordpress.com
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#8
(01-28-2019, 12:42 PM)doctorwayne Wrote: Nicely done, Andrew.   Applause Applause Applause

While I'll occasionally add the piping on a model, it's usually only for the sake of doing it, as no one will see it unless you're in the habit of having dramatic roll-over-type derailments as part of your regular operating sessions....

Wayne

I have been referring back to your post for some time now and meant to ask what chain you used for the handbrake chain?
Regards
Andrew Martin
Visit the blog and the small layout design site: https://huntervalleylines.wordpress.com
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#9
Good job Andrew! Wayne is a master when it comes to freight cars (and most anything else related to mrring).
Mike

Sent from my pocket calculator using two tin cans and a string
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#10
(03-29-2020, 11:48 PM)iandrewmartin Wrote: ...I have been referring back to your post for some time now and meant to ask what chain you used for the handbrake chain?

The finest chain that I've been able to locate is 40 links per inch, at least twice as large as it should be...perhaps even three times as large as chain that would be to-scale.

I usually get it from Detail Associates, but I'm not sure if that company is even still extant.  I did find some on-line last year, and got three feet of the same chain for only a couple of bucks.  I wish now that I'd bought more, but I have at least 5' or 6' of it on-hand, and not a lot of rolling stock yet to be built - five 40' single sheathed automobile cars and a number of wood-sheathed head-end cars to scratchbuild, and a few Train Miniature cars to work-over a bit.  I have a bunch of hoppers to do, too, but they won't likely require any chain.
I'd also like to build a few specialty cars for MoW service, but they'll have to wait until my backlog of locomotive conversions is cleared-up.


Wayne
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#11
(03-30-2020, 06:56 AM)Tyson Rayles Wrote: Good job Andrew! Wayne is a master when it comes to freight cars (and most anything else related to mrring).

Thanks, Mike;

Yes, he is. I've just gotten into the more detail-oriented 'car' side of the model railroading stuff. Now that I have enough cars to call it a fleet. And I find it amazing just how much you can improve the look of a car with just a little bit of suggestive detailing.

One of these days before I kark it I'll get to Wayne's level. For right now I'll just have to muddle along.

All the best from a sunny Melbourne, Victoria. On two days off!
Regards
Andrew Martin
Visit the blog and the small layout design site: https://huntervalleylines.wordpress.com
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#12
(03-30-2020, 09:29 AM)doctorwayne Wrote: The finest chain that I've been able to locate is 40 links per inch, at least twice as large as it should be...perhaps even three times as large as chain that would be to-scale.

I usually get it from Detail Associates, but I'm not sure if that company is even still extant.  I did find some on-line last year and got three feet of the same chain for only a couple of bucks.  I wish now that I'd bought more, but I have at least 5' or 6' of it on-hand, and not a lot of rolling stock yet to be built - five 40' single sheathed automobile cars and a number of wood-sheathed head-end cars to scratchbuild, and a few Train Miniature cars to work-over a bit.  I have a bunch of hoppers to do, too, but they won't likely require any chain.
I'd also like to build a few specialty cars for MoW service, but they'll have to wait until my backlog of locomotive conversions is cleared-up.

Wayne

Wayne;

I have some chain that I bought a while back. I have thought though of buying model ship chain. That seems to be about right for some of the smaller scales. Looking on AliExpress this morning I found this seller and they have chain as small as 1.6mm (0.063 thou) x 2mm (0.079 thou). You can see that page here and they ship for free to Aus too. And for 3 metres of the stuff for $15 AU, I figure that it is very cheap considering that I'd need only a few links per car.

You can see that seller's offering here if you are interested. 

Also, there is this seller who has 1:700 scale anchor chain available.

So, there are a couple of options out there. And these might also work for tie-down chains as well. Just a thought.

All the best and talk to you later on. Back to building some small scale deep space vessels for a change.
Regards
Andrew Martin
Visit the blog and the small layout design site: https://huntervalleylines.wordpress.com
For modelling articles and gallery (click Website button below)
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#13
Thanks for those "links", Ian (very appropriate in a discussion regarding  chain).

 The 2mm chain scales-out to about 7" in HO, while the 1.6mm stuff is a little better at around 5.7".  However, the .55mm anchor chain, at just under 2"HO, is getting a lot closer to "scale".

While I'm tempted to order some of the latter, Alibaba's Membership Agreement and terms and conditions go on quite extensively, making it easy to get lost in the legal jargon. 
The price is good and the product, if it's as advertised, looks good, too, but in addition to my caution regarding membership, I seriously doubt that I could execute the manoeuvres necessary to connect it to both the clevis on the brake cylinder's actuating rod and to the rod which supposedly connects to the car's brakes.

Fashioning and installing a "D"-shaped link for the chain-to-clevis connection and a loop to connect to the brake rod is already the most time-consuming part for me when adding brake gear.  I think I'm going to have to stick with a representation of the chain, rather than an actual to-scale version.

Wayne
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#14
(03-31-2020, 09:39 AM)doctorwayne Wrote: Thanks for those "links", Ian (very appropriate in a discussion regarding  chain).

 The 2mm chain scales-out to about 7" in HO, while the 1.6mm stuff is a little better at around 5.7".  However, the .55mm anchor chain, at just under 2"HO, is getting a lot closer to "scale".

While I'm tempted to order some of the latter, Alibaba's Membership Agreement and terms and conditions go on quite extensively, making it easy to get lost in the legal jargon. 
The price is good and the product, if it's as advertised, looks good, too, but in addition to my caution regarding membership, I seriously doubt that I could execute the manoeuvres necessary to connect it to both the clevis on the brake cylinder's actuating rod and to the rod which supposedly connects to the car's brakes.

Fashioning and installing a "D"-shaped link for the chain-to-clevis connection and a loop to connect to the brake rod is already the most time-consuming part for me when adding brake gear.  I think I'm going to have to stick with a representation of the chain, rather than an actual to-scale version.

Wayne

Wayne;

Always happy to help with links to things. Like to be able to share.

I can only say that AliExpress has been fantastic since I started using them about 3 years ago. Never an issue or a problem.

So far as making a D-Link, I'd thought of simply using a loop of copper wire to join the chain to the plastic. I'll live with it, and I doubt that in regular service you'd even notice.

Signing off for now while enjoying another day, at the ends of the earth, listening to R.E.M. singing It’s the End of the World as We Know It (and I Feel Fine)
Regards
Andrew Martin
Visit the blog and the small layout design site: https://huntervalleylines.wordpress.com
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#15
Thanks to Ted Culotta,

there is a fundametal step by step article how to rig brake details: http://www.steamerafreightcars.com/model...smain.html

[Image: dsc0100157ual.jpg]
And thanks to the article of Ted Culotta i have learned brake rigging by heart "make toy trains lookking like real model trains".




[Image: dsc02672tzlx.jpg]
Intermountain tank car with incomplete brake details.


[Image: dsc026739zuw.jpg]
Drill hole were they are needed.


[Image: dsc02674gz7q.jpg]
Bend and fit wires. This was one of my former efforts with 0.5mm brass wire.



[Image: dsc03633j8ojp.jpg]
Caboose are fitted with still one lever more in their brake gear, because each end platform has a brake wheel. This was done completely scratch with parts out of the grab box.
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