Out Arizona Way

[ezdays]

Having grown up in and around the Everglades you get over your fear of snakes and gators and scorpions and such real quick or else you will go nuts.

Yeah, even where we are now, we do see our share of critters. Don't know if I fear them, just that I try to keep a wide margin between them and me. I have a black light just to spot scorpions, they can get in the house, most all others tend to stay outdoors.

[ezdays]

This is one from 2006 that I updated a bit. I could add more records, but it's a bit wordy as it is.

Records

You can’t do much of anything now days without knowing that somewhere there is a record for whatever it is you’re doing. Most people relate records to greatness. The fastest runner, the most points scored in a ballgame, the highest number of gummy bears eaten in an hour; all things to be proud of. There are, however, records that are not ones of pride, or at least ones you wished hadn’t happened. Here in Arizona we have a few good and a few not so good records.

Let’s start with the one we hold for being the best place in the country to have your mail stolen. Mail is sacred you say, poppycock, and the thieves prove it day after day. They just love those boxes in apartment houses and those cluster boxes that the post office insists that developers put in all new neighborhoods. This way they don’t have to go door to door to lift your mail from the box in front of your house. They can just go and rip the front panel off and steal the mail from a dozen or so families all at once. Why they’ve even become so bold here that they’ve actually hijacked mail trucks on their routes. But here’s one that’s hard to beat. A few years ago all the thieves needed were a large wrench and a strong back to do their dirty work. At the Post Office where I go, they were able to take a drop box off its mounts and drive away with it, and then do likewise at another. They were stupid enough to try to cash a check they found in the mail and were captured a few days later. When caught, they said one mailbox was so full they had to call a friend to help them load it on their truck.

One record that goes hand in hand with this is we are #1 in identity theft. Yep. If you want to lose your identity, come on down, we’ve got professionals that are here to help you do just that. I don’t know why that is, but I think a lot of con artists like the mild winters we have here and need to finance their vacations the easy way.

We lead the nation in vehicle theft as well. Our proximity to the Mexican border doesn’t help. A few years ago after our pickup truck was taken from our driveway, the police told us that frequently a “chop shop” gets an order for specific parts. A rickety old truck limped up from Mexico and whizzed back bright and shiny with parts from our truck. A lot of these stolen vehicles get impounded across the border; there are literally thousands on vehicles in impound lots there, but they fail to notify the owners. They’ve documented cases where someone can look through the fence and see their vehicle, but the Mexican authorities will not acknowledge anything, so there they sit.

I can’t say if this is a record or not, but I think we have to be somewhere near the top when it comes to public funding for grandiose private professional sports complexes. We have one for basketball, another for hockey, a professional baseball field and lastly, a brand new $450,000,000 football edifice. They all have separate tax-funded “practice” facilities as well. I expect any day now the Peewee League is going to insist that if we don’t provide them with their own opulent facility to play in, that they are going to move elsewhere. I’m sorry, but I’m of the opinion that a sports team is a business, and any business that can afford to pay most of their workers yearly salaries in the seven and eight figures, should at least be able to afford a place to work.

Weather records make us proud, well some of them do. Southern Arizona is by far the sunniest place on earth. Yuma is in the Guinness Book of world records for having the highest percentage of sunny hours (91% of all daylight hours). Our high temperature record in Phoenix is 122 degrees. I was here that day and it just seemed like another hot summer day. Yuma hit 124 in 1995; glad I wasn’t there for that one. We've had record highs all this summer along with barely any rain. We are not the driest place on earth but sometimes it seems so. Our average yearly rainfall is less than 10 inches; so far this year we're only pushing 3.5".

I’ll leave it up to you to decide which records we should be proud of and which we’d rather not talk about.

[Tyson Rayles]

I guess you feel like it's too crowded where you are so this post is to discourage others from moving there. It's working!!!

[ezdays]

I guess you feel like it's too crowded where you are so this post is to discourage others from moving there. It's working!!!

 
nuttin' like airing your dirty laundry to make people think. Went to church this morning, had a good 25% more seats filled than last week, they're starting to trickle in. Maybe if they read this.....

[ezdays]

Last time I posted a few negative things about Arizona, so this time I'll make amends and look on the bright side.

Sightseeing

Arizona’s Sonora desert is beautiful and unlike anything you’ll see anywhere else in the world. From the stately cacti, to the fields of colorful wildflowers, these things are alone worth coming here to visit. These are not the only sights to see, so let’s take a brief look at a few.

The top attraction here is obviously the Grand Canyon. There’s no need for me to describe it, we all are aware of its majestic beauty and how the views can change minute to minute. The canyon is in the northernmost part of the state and it does snow there, so the best time to go is during the warmer months (ie: escape the 110° heat). The last time we went, we took a tour package that included a one-night stay in Williams, transportation on the Grand Canyon Railway, another nights stay at the Canyon, a bus tour of the east rim and several meals. We added a second bus tour of the west rim so that we had three full days of activities. Williams is about 150 miles north of Phoenix. You can drive to the Canyon and stay of one of their several lodges, or even camp at some of the local campsites, but driving around and parking can be a headache; besides, when there's a train ride available, take it.

Another trip we like to take is up in the Cottonwood-Sedona area. The Verde Canyon Railroad runs a tour train out of the Clarkdale Depot twice daily that has breathtaking river views that includes nesting bald eagles and stunning canyon walls. A four-hour round trip now runs around $65, a bit more for first class that includes a bite to eat on the way. The last time we took that trip with some visitors, we included a dinner and a Western show at the Blazin’ M Ranch, just a few miles away. The town of Jerome is not that far, so it’s possible to spend some time going through the old mining town before or after your train ride. It’s steep winding narrow streets and old buildings give you a sense of what life might have been like living there 100 years ago. Most important though is the fact that all this is just about a 20-minute ride to Sedona, one of the most amazing places on the planet. One must spend more than a day there. You can take one of several jeep tours, or best yet, explore the area on your own. There you’ll see the red rocks that are awe inspiring, towering high all around the town. Drive through Oak Creek Canyon through the stately pine trees, and above all, visit the Chapel of the Holy Cross. This chapel is built high on the side of the red rocks and its 100-foot high cross adorning the face of the church can be seen for miles. (I have a 1:220 model of this Chapel on my layout). It is indeed a Catholic church that has been standing there for well over a half-century. They claim that it's built on one of the many vortexes around the area. Sedona is only about a three-hour drive from Phoenix, so we try to go there often. We never fail to stop at the Chapel to reflect at it and the surrounding beauty and reverence. Incidentally, if you are into camping out, there are many nice campsites along Oak Creek Canyon. We did that often when our boys were young. We always feel better after visiting Sedona and Oak Creek.

Still hanging around up north we have Monument Valley, the site were many western movies were shot, there is the Petrified Forest National Park, the Painted Desert and then Meteor Crater. All of these sites are accessible off of I-40 and most are on Indian Reservation land. For train buffs, another delight on I-40 would be an overnight stay at the La Posada Hotel in Winslow. This is one of the best remaining examples of a Harvey House that was built for railroad passengers in 1929. It is pretty much restored to its past elegance. Winslow also gained notoriety for the song, “Standing on the Corner” and has statues dedicating that corner for posterity.

Although there is casino gambling on Indian Reservations throughout the state, a lot of the locals, and many visitors go to Laughlin, Nevada, sometimes just for the day. Laughlin is across the Colorado River from Bullhead City. Las Vegas is a few hours ride north of that, and will take you over Hoover Dam, a sight worth seeing on it’s own.

That briefly covers northern Arizona; I think the next time I’ll take you on a quick tour of the southern part of the state.

[Tyson Rayles]

"The Verde Canyon Railroad runs a tour train out of the Clarkdale Depot twice daily that has breathtaking river views that includes nesting bald eagles and stunning canyon walls. A four-hour round trip now runs around $65, a bit more for first class that includes a bite to eat on the way. The last time we took that trip with some visitors, we included a dinner and a Western show at the Blazin’ M Ranch, just a few miles away. The town of Jerome is not that far, so it’s possible to spend some time going through the old mining town before or after your train ride. It’s steep winding narrow streets and old buildings give you a sense of what life might have been like living there 100 years ago."

I always thought John Olsen's Jerome and Southwestern was one of the finest small layouts I have ever come across.

[ezdays]

I always thought John Olsen's Jerome and Southwestern was one of the finest small layouts I have ever come across.

Jerome isn't what it used to be. Back in the 60's it was virtually a ghost town, decaying buildings and broken streets. The hippy community kind of took over and eventually, others came to fix up old houses and open businesses. When we drove though the last time, we couldn't even find a parking space on the main street, since it is now a tourist attraction. When you are on route 89A towards Sedona, you can see Jerome high up on the hill. I'll have to look up that layout, thanks for the tip.

[ezdays]

That's an extraordinary layout. The book about it is still available on Amazon.

[Tyson Rayles]

Yeah I really enjoyed all the articles in MR on it. The Back Alley and Wharf 2X6 foot extension really completed it from an operational stand point. And John's eye for artistry doesn't hurt either.

[ezdays]

Continuing our tour of Arizona:

Sightseeing II

Let’s talk a bit about touring the southern half of Arizona. Lots of fun stuff going on there, but remember, it’s a lot hotter in the summer than up north. As a matter of fact, these are places you can go to all year. Tucson is a good place to start. It’s but a two-hour drive down I-10 from Phoenix, not the most exciting drive unless you enjoy traveling on the Indianapolis Speedway. On the way, you’ll pass an airfield just north of Marana. You will see literally hundreds of large jets parked there, from old 727’s to jumbo 747’s, DC10’s and even 787's. You think that it’s the busiest airport in the world, but it’s rare to see a plane take off or land. And don’t even try to go closer to see more; these planes are parked there because there is no immediate use for them. Some are being retrofitted for other uses such as fighting fires or cargo. Others are being fitted as private aircraft for the rich and famous. They've moved a bunch of 737MAX's there awaiting updates because of the recent debacle. Some also say that this is where they work on those planes for the CIA, but no one talks about that.

There’s another huge airfield of retired, or resting airplanes, those that the government has no need for right now. Davis-Monthan Air Force Base is the home of AMARG, a group that is dedicated to storing aircraft that may be needed again or are dismantling those that are not. Known as the “Boneyard” there are rows and rows of planes in various stages of preservation along with things like dismantled B-52’s. It is a prime source of spare parts for aircraft still in use. The Pima Air Museum is also nearby and it’s possible to reserve a tour that includes both the museum and Boneyard. Also while you’re in Tucson, head west for a short ride and you find Old Tucson Studios. This is actually a movie set used in hundreds of western films and TV shows. Several years ago, the whole thing just about burned to the ground, but it’s back up and running with film shoots, daily entertainment and some good stuff to eat. Figure on spending the whole day there. On the south side of town is the San Xavier del Bac Mission. “The dove of the desert” was built in the late 1700’s and is said to be the finest example of mission architecture in the United States. I wouldn’t miss that.

We all know about the Town of Tombstone and the gunfight at the OK Corral. Well, it’s happening several times a day now, along with other gunfights that probably didn’t ever happen, but are fun to watch anyway. A stop at the Birdcage Theater is a must along with your choice of any of a hundred old shops just waiting to sell you something. A fun place to spend a little time so you can say you were there, but for my money, I’d head just a bit south and spend the night in the old mining town of Bisbee. There are some authentically restored hotels (some with a bit of haunting) and old buildings there that have to be worth the side trip.

Heading south from Bisbee is Douglas sitting right on the border with Old Mexico, or you can head down I-19, about an hour from Tucson and you’ll be in the twin towns of Nogales: lots of touristy-type things to buy there. Just be careful if you drive across the border, you are probably not insured, and remember, the parking meters don't take US coins. If you’re heading to California on I-8, you’ll want to stop in Yuma. Once dubbed the hottest (temp-wise) town in the country, it’s the home of the Arizona Territorial Prison. It looks a lot like what you see in some of those movies, and you’ll have an interesting time looking around.

Just one more stop to talk about and that is Kartchner Caverns State Park. This is just south of Benson, the place where you turned off I-10 to get to Tombstone and Bisbee. These caves were discovered in the mid 70’s and were kept a secret for years until they could be turned over to the state and secured. They’re open to visitors since 1999 and have things there that I can’t pronounce, never mind spell. Just let it be said, you won’t be disappointed so go and take the tour. There are plenty of other interesting places to visit while you’re here, maybe next time I’ll talk about some that are closer to the Phoenix area.

[ezdays]

Sightseeing III

Let’s talk a bit about sights you can see here in the Phoenix area. Now we’re not talking a few square miles here, the greater Phoenix area is comprised of some of the largest cities in the state. Phoenix, Tempe, Scottsdale, Mesa, Glendale, Chandler, Peoria and Surprise are just a few contiguous towns that make up most of the around 4,00,000 population. The Hohokam Indians first inhabited the area as early as 300 BC. They were farmers and there are still some old canals in use today that date back to this tribe. Fortunately, some of their settlements are preserved, one being very close to the downtown area. Go visit the Pueblo Grande Museum and Archaeological Park on East Washington St. to see what it was like living in the area some 2000 years ago. Or drive south on I-10 to Casa Grande to the Casa Grande Ruins National Monument where you’ll see the “Great House” that was abandoned by the tribe around 1450AD and has been a national monument since 1918. Some other local museums to consider visiting are the Heard Museum and the Arizona Mining and Mineral Museum; both provide visitors with a unique view of the history of Arizona.

Years ago when we had out-of-town visitors we would always take them on the desert drive between Scottsdale and Carefree. All the different desert plants, trees and cacti were marked with plaques and it was a beautiful drive. You can still go to Carefree and see the huge sundial and some fantastic homes, but don’t look for the plants or their markers now; it’s just one continuous strip of homes, condos and shopping centers. If you want to see the desert plants, it’s best to go to the Desert Botanical Gardens in Papago Park. Here you’ll see hundreds of common and very rare desert plants. There’s always something going on there and it changes with the time of the year that you go. One place you’ll not want to miss is the Pioneer Living History Village, just north of the Carefree Highway on I-17. They have a 90-acre 1800 town of authentic and recreated buildings. See an Opera House where Lilly Langtry sang; visit an old cabin that was part of an Arizona range war. Tour the blacksmith shop and jail and talk to costumed guides for a fun and educational day in the past. Two other old and odd delights are the Mystery Castle near South Mountain Park. This house made of “things” was built back in the 30’s, and is still occupied by the daughter of the man that built it. It is open for tours. Then there’s the “Wedding Cake House,” or Tovrea Castle. Built in 1928 on 300 acres of desert gardens, this Phoenix landmark and about 40 acres or the gardens are now owned by the city. It too is out on E. Washington Street and can be seen while driving on the loop 202 towards Tempe. Restorations are just about complete and you should be able to book a tour with the city soon.

For those who can’t resist going back home with more than they came here with, downtown Scottsdale gives you ample opportunity to do just that. You can find hundreds of old shops with unique arts and crafts, authentic Indian jewelry, clothing and one-of-a-kind furniture. Downtown Scottsdale is going through revitalization. A major canal running through the town is being dubbed as a “River Walk” with restaurants, shops and hotels being built along its banks. We moved away from that area in the late 90’s, so when I took some visitors there a while back and I couldn’t believe the changes I saw, so if you haven’t been there for a while, prepare yourself to be surprised.

One thing I like to do when visiting a new area is to drive around and look at some of the houses. You might want to do that too by starting in Paradise Valley. Here some of the very rich and famous live, mega-million dollar mansions in a town that requires at least a one-acre lot. For some really nice desert homes, drive out to Fountain Hills where most homes are spread out around the desert as well as Carefree with it's unique road names like, Ho-hum Dr., Rambling Dr. and Slumber St. with lots of homes and businesses in real Western desert setting.

Just one more addition come Oct 23rd, while in Scottsdale, you can stop by the worlds largest White Castle, now being built in a shopping area on the Pima Indian Reservation specifically to accommodate those that miss their slider fix. While there, you can go to the nearby casinos if you wish, but you can do that just about anywhere now days.

[cn nutbar]

Don---if my wife and I visit Arizona again can we hire you as our tour director---I'll bet you know where to do some rail-fanning while the wives go shopping

[ezdays]

Don---if my wife and I visit Arizona again can we hire you as our tour director---I'll bet you know where to do some rail-fanning while the wives go shopping

Well, having been in Arizona for most of the past 65 years, I think I know my way around so I'm be honored to be your tour director. I do some rail-fanning almost daily, the BNSF mainline runs parallel to US60 which I drive or cross over on several times a day on most days. I'm probably one of the few that enjoy sitting there waiting for a 100-car train to pass.

[ezdays]

This is from an article I wrote about eight years ago, with an added update:

Routines

We are all creatures of habits. I’ve always been an early riser and fortunately, my wife had no problem conforming. One little pleasure we still have in our retirement is to eat breakfast out. This is a carryover from our days when we worked in our business together and sometimes went to work well before breakfast and took a break around six to go eat. When we retired, nothing changed; up around four, out to breakfast by six. We might hit a local place or a Denny’s, but one of our favorite places to go to a few times a week is the “Desert Palms.” It’s about three miles from the house, but we like it because it opens early, the food is good and the prices are reasonable. Like at most restaurants, we find a number of regulars there, including one couple that shows up for three meals a day on most days. Boy, and we thought that we didn’t like to cook. Anyway, all of our routines were broken the other day when we got there at our usual time but couldn’t get into the parking lot. There were police cars blocking every entrance with police tape surrounding the area. We had no idea what was going on; we could see a fire truck and an ambulance so we thought perhaps there was an accident or a fire, but we really couldn’t stop to ask anyone even though we were concerned. Come noon and we were glued to the news, and sure enough, there it was; they had been robbed just minutes before we got there. It seems like a couple of men hid behind an outside wall waiting for the cook to show up. Armed with a gun and a crowbar, they herded him and a waitress into the office in hopes of getting into the safe. Neither one had the combination; so all they got was what was in the cash drawer and what these two employees had in their pockets including their cell phones. The robbers fled on foot, and still haven’t been caught.

Now, as disruptive as it was to us, can you imagine what these two went through? Let’s start with the cook; he had to endure having a gun pressed to his head while they tried to get the waitress to open the safe. This man works hard for his money, and unfortunately, they took some $800 cash he had on him to pay his house rent. Both have had to be traumatized wondering just how dangerous these guys were and what they’d do if they didn’t get what they wanted. We went there the next morning and I could still see the terror in that waitress’ eyes. She worked a few more days and after some time off, changed her routine and shift. The employees no longer enter in the side of the building and there’s a different atmosphere there that you can sense. Things have changed for everyone involved. There’s the waitress that should have opened up that day but didn’t because of a medical issue. She has to feel a bit uneasy knowing that someone else took her place. She wasn’t even there, but she is still a victim. The owners were violated, even though they weren’t there either. I don’t think these people will forget what happened that morning; the feeling of distrust of the most innocent things will linger with them for a long time.

You may wonder why I’m dedicating a whole article about this, but to know that we came close to encountering a robbery is a bit unnerving. You also need to know that it’s people like these robbers that, knowingly or not, really spoil people’s routines, possibly for the rest of their lives. Long after these robbers spend their ill-gotten gains, we have those that are now afraid of every dark corner or every stranger that approaches them, and that’s not fair. I know, life’s not fair, but these guys need to be found and have their routines changed as well.

Just as a follow-up, the Desert Palms closed a few months after I wrote this article. Did this robbery have anything to do with this? We can't be sure, but one thing is certain, a lot more people's routines were spoiled when they did close, including ours.

[Tyson Rayles]

So you keep posting these upbeat stories to make sure nobody else moves there?