Log cabin

[jim currie]

Don here's what i found so far in diminutions you could use      if you think these will do will get them in mail asap. the green ones will turn brown as they dry.

Jim

[doctorwayne]

At first glance, I thought that I was looking at a box of rhubarb.  I was having visions of rhubarb pie, rhubarb jam and rhubarb muffins.  Ours is usually done quite early.

I'm looking forward to the log cabin build.

Wayne

[ezdays]

Don here's what i found so far in diminutions you could use  if you think these will do will get them in mail asap. the green ones will turn brown as they dry.

Jim

Thanks Jim, I sent you an email in case you didn't have my address. I'm sure they'll work. Gives me an idea of how I want to proceed.

[ezdays]

Had time and was able to do some design work. Log cabins are very basic, most being nothing but a rectangle with a fireplace on one end. Some through time evolve with porches, lean-to's and pop-outs. Some are built in "dogtrot" style, two separate squares with outdoor space between them. Many over the years get elaborate siding and extensions added so that there's no indication that there's a log cabin underneath all that bling. Some cabins were supported by some rocks under the four corners, then the floor was held in place with "sleeper" logs attached to the first course.

Anyway, my initial plan is to go basic until I get the hang of it, I want to see how difficult it is to do individual logs, just like the pioneers. Here's my initial sketch of a single and a two-story cabin. I can add porches and whatever as things move along. I do not intend to detail the inside but it's always an option

   

[Charlie B]

In 1965 we rented the old farm house on my mothers cousin's farm. It was a 2 story log cabin but it was sheeted with sawn wood, some of the planks were 24 inches wide. It had a cellar and the floor beams were logs about 12 inches in diameter.  The well was in the cellar too. Sadly the people that bought the farm tore it down.  I regret never getting into the attic but to be honest I was afraid of what I would find. Being sheeted you couldn't see the logs. Our rent was 25 bucks a month and there was a gas well on the farm that supplied us with free gas too. One room we stripped the wall paper and found old newspapers had been put up first right over the planking that covered the inside walls. Needless to say the wiring left a lot to be desired but there was a brand new kitchen and bathroom. 
Don, this has brought back memories I had forgotten. Thanks.  
Charlie

[ezdays]

Yeah Charlie, I can understand the memories. Those "Barnwood Builders" have taken down many log cabins that were sheathed in siding and finished walls to the point that people living in them didn't realize there was a log cabin underneath all that. Newspapers used as insulation was a common thing. MY SIL and her husband lived in an old farmhouse in upstate NY and took some of the newspapers off the walls and donated them to a local museum. Their house had a hidden room that was used as part of the underground railroad. You all were living in history....

It is interesting what these guys find when they take a log cabin down. One guy has a passion for finding marbles that rolled between the floor cracks, others find old tools, some used to make that very cabin. Can you imagine what it takes to square up and notch a 40' log with nothing but hand tools? Then do it so perfectly that the notches on both ends fit tight onto the logs below it. Then hand saw floorboard that are over an inch thick that are flat and smooth.... I get tired just thinking about it....

[Charlie B]

Those hand sawn floor boards are probably the reason for the ones with dirt floors. 
Charlie

[jim currie]

Don your log cabin has woke up a urge to build one myself, your design looks good. in the 1990's we lived in a old house in meeker Colorado that was originally a 4-room log cabin with a add on in back, most of the house was recovered except one small room that they left the log walls showing  i found this one on library of congress.          
    with drawings . your logs will be there Wednesday according to usps  .

[ezdays]

 your logs will be there Wednesday according to usps  .

Thanks Jim, tomorrow sounds about right. I tried experimenting with notching balsa wood strips with an Xacto knife, but it's too fragile, it splits and breaks apart on the ends. I think the logs you're sending will be tighter and not do that. Besides, I like the irregular shapes.... Got lots of experimenting to do before I actually start building the structure.

[jim currie]

[quote="jim currie" pid='168661' dateline='1660670820']





Thanks Jim, tomorrow sounds about right. I tried experimenting with notching balsa wood strips with an Xacto knife, but it's too fragile, it splits and breaks apart on the ends. I think the logs you're sending will be tighter and not do that. Besides, I like the irregular shapes.... Got lots of experimenting to do before I actually start building the structure.

don in notching thin wood i find it best to find something to use for backing in your case a piece an old Suydam (California models) ho  corrugated building would work.
Jim

[ezdays]

don in notching thin wood i find it best to find something to use for backing in your case a piece an old Suydam (California models) ho  corrugated building would work.
Jim

Jim, got the logs, thanks my friend. The problem with the notch is the small piece left has a tendency to break off. It's a given on balsa wood, so I'm going to try using a wheel in my Dremel to notch what you sent. The big thing is that I've got something to work with. Thanks again...

[jim currie]

[quote="jim currie" pid='168673' dateline='1660757430']


Jim, got the logs, thanks my friend. The problem with the notch is the small piece left has a tendency to break off. It's a given on balsa wood, so I'm going to try using a wheel in my Dremel to notch what you sent. The big thing is that I've got something to work with. Thanks again...

Don if you have the same problem with logs try soaking the ends in highly diluted lacquer for a time as a binder.
Jim

[ezdays]

Don if you have the same problem with logs try soaking the ends in highly diluted lacquer for a time as a binder.
Jim

Good idea, just that I want to keep the pores of the wood open for staining. I got a few ideas to try and you certainly sent me enough to experiment with.

[ezdays]

Here's what I've got so far, gentleness is the only way to handle these pieces of wood. Anything that puts pressure on the wood will split it and that little piece past the notch will break. Xacto blades, dikes, needle nose pliers, anything. I used a diamond wheel and it cut a notch with no problems. I was able to even shorten that overhang piece using the same wheel. According to what I have, the notch opening is about 12 1/2" and the overhand is 8". I can always trim the overhang after assembly. I need to make two jigs, one to be able to flatten two sides of the log and maintain even thickness. The other is to secure the log so I get consistent V notches at both ends and just the right distance apart.

For now, I'm happy with the cutting wheel to make the bottom notches and the top V to accept the notch of the log on top of it. As for flattening the sides, the wood cuts nicely and doesn't seem to splinter so I'm not sure how I'm going to do that yet, sanding is an option, two parallel Xacto blades might work. We'll see...

   

[ezdays]

Moving along, I made a cutting jig to face my logs. I simply cut grooves in a piece of MDF at different depths. I lay the logs in the deepest groove and cut it flat to the surface using a shop knife. Flip it over an put it in a less deep groove and repeat. I now have a log that is faced flat on both sides and of consistent depth. For a single story cabin I'll need 14 pieces @ 1 3/4" and 14 @ 2 3/4".

One other thing I saw last week on Barnwood Builders was one cabin they were taking down had half-round rafters. I'm sure it doesn't matter if I even have rafters if I don't make the inside accessible, but I'll keep it in mind in case I do. As a pioneer, why surface all sides of the roof rafters if they're hidden up in the attic? A lot of extra work for no good reason.