https://bigbluetrains.com/ Fri, 17 Apr 2026 06:59:52 +0000 MyBB https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10254 Tue, 10 Mar 2026 01:49:38 +0000 zzrguy]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10254 Sometimes a project comes along that pushes you completely out of your comfort zone. This is one of those builds.
In this episode of Jack on Tracks, I start what might be one of the most ambitious structures I’ve ever attempted: a full cutaway factory building for the legendary West Island Model Railroad Club on Long Island — a club that has been around for almost 80 years. Being able to contribute something to a layout with that kind of history is both exciting and a little intimidating.
And of course… I decided not to take the easy route.

---

The Idea: A Full Cutaway Factory
The building we’re constructing is the Berkshire Knitting Factory Receiving Warehouse. Instead of building it as a standard structure that you simply place on the layout, I wanted to do something a little more dramatic.
So I did something that probably made a few modelers cringe:
I cut the building open.
The goal is to create a cutaway structure that exposes the interior so viewers can see everything happening inside the factory. That means this build isn’t just about exterior walls — it’s about making the inside of the building look just as convincing.
That includes:

• Interior brick walls
  
• Custom doors and windows
  
• Interior lighting
  
• Structural roof trusses
  
• Detailed warehouse spaces
  

In other words… we’re going all out.

---

The Starting Point: A DPM Modular Kit
The base of this project is a DPM Landmark modular structure kit, which gives us a solid starting point for an industrial building. DPM kits are great because they’re modular and easy to modify — which is exactly what we need for a custom build like this.
But right out of the box, the kit parts are a little… chunky.
That means there’s a lot of work ahead to refine the details and make the structure look more realistic.

---

Upgrading the Walls
To improve the look of the building, I’m using Plastruct brick sheets to add texture and realism.
By laminating these brick sheets onto the inside surfaces, the interior will look like an actual brick factory instead of bare plastic.
This step alone adds a huge amount of visual realism — especially once lighting is added later in the build.

---

Precision Cutting Time
One of the biggest challenges in this build is modifying the walls to create the cutaway view.
That means carefully slicing into the structure using a fresh #11 hobby blade and taking my time with each cut. Clean edges are absolutely critical here — if the cuts aren’t straight, the whole illusion of the building falls apart.
It’s one of those moments where patience really matters.
Measure twice.
Cut once.

---

Fixing the Problems
Like many structure kits, the project already threw a few curveballs.
The pieces of plywood for the floor turned out to be warped, which meant it had to be corrected before continuing. If the foundation of the structure isn’t straight, nothing else will line up properly.
This is the kind of issue that happens all the time in modeling — and solving these little problems is part of the process.

---

Custom Details
To really elevate the structure, I’m incorporating laser-cut doors and window details from Rail Scale Models. These parts are far finer than the original kit pieces and instantly improve the scale appearance of the building.
The combination of:

• upgraded brickwork
  
• laser-cut details
  
• interior lighting
  
• visible structural elements
  

should make this warehouse feel like a real working industrial building instead of just another background structure.

---

A First for Me
Here’s the truth:
I’ve never built a cutaway structure before.
This is completely new territory for me.
There are definitely moments where I’m wondering:

• Will the wall laminations stay flat?
  
• Will the interior brick actually look convincing?
  
• Did I just make this project way harder than it needed to be?
  

But that’s also what makes a project like this exciting.

---

The Vision
If everything goes according to plan, this building will become a centerpiece industry on the club layout.
Instead of just seeing a building sitting on the layout, operators and visitors will be able to look inside and see:

• the warehouse interior
  
• the brick walls
  
• the roof structure
  
• the lighting bringing everything to life
  

It should add a level of depth and storytelling that you don’t usually see in structure models.

---

What’s Next
This is only the beginning of the build.
Coming up next we’ll be working on:

• installing the interior brickwork
  
• fitting the laser-cut windows and doors
  
• designing the interior layout
  
• adding roof trusses and structural supports
  
• planning the lighting system
  

There’s still a lot of work ahead, but the foundation of the project is finally starting to take shape.
And honestly…
It’s starting to look like this crazy idea might actually work.

---

If you enjoy model railroading, structure kitbashing, and detailed HO scale builds, this project is going to be a fun ride.
Stay tuned — because we’re just getting started.
— Jack on Tracks


]]> Sometimes a project comes along that pushes you completely out of your comfort zone. This is one of those builds.
In this episode of Jack on Tracks, I start what might be one of the most ambitious structures I’ve ever attempted: a full cutaway factory building for the legendary West Island Model Railroad Club on Long Island — a club that has been around for almost 80 years. Being able to contribute something to a layout with that kind of history is both exciting and a little intimidating.
And of course… I decided not to take the easy route.

---

The Idea: A Full Cutaway Factory
The building we’re constructing is the Berkshire Knitting Factory Receiving Warehouse. Instead of building it as a standard structure that you simply place on the layout, I wanted to do something a little more dramatic.
So I did something that probably made a few modelers cringe:
I cut the building open.
The goal is to create a cutaway structure that exposes the interior so viewers can see everything happening inside the factory. That means this build isn’t just about exterior walls — it’s about making the inside of the building look just as convincing.
That includes:

• Interior brick walls
  
• Custom doors and windows
  
• Interior lighting
  
• Structural roof trusses
  
• Detailed warehouse spaces
  

In other words… we’re going all out.

---

The Starting Point: A DPM Modular Kit
The base of this project is a DPM Landmark modular structure kit, which gives us a solid starting point for an industrial building. DPM kits are great because they’re modular and easy to modify — which is exactly what we need for a custom build like this.
But right out of the box, the kit parts are a little… chunky.
That means there’s a lot of work ahead to refine the details and make the structure look more realistic.

---

Upgrading the Walls
To improve the look of the building, I’m using Plastruct brick sheets to add texture and realism.
By laminating these brick sheets onto the inside surfaces, the interior will look like an actual brick factory instead of bare plastic.
This step alone adds a huge amount of visual realism — especially once lighting is added later in the build.

---

Precision Cutting Time
One of the biggest challenges in this build is modifying the walls to create the cutaway view.
That means carefully slicing into the structure using a fresh #11 hobby blade and taking my time with each cut. Clean edges are absolutely critical here — if the cuts aren’t straight, the whole illusion of the building falls apart.
It’s one of those moments where patience really matters.
Measure twice.
Cut once.

---

Fixing the Problems
Like many structure kits, the project already threw a few curveballs.
The pieces of plywood for the floor turned out to be warped, which meant it had to be corrected before continuing. If the foundation of the structure isn’t straight, nothing else will line up properly.
This is the kind of issue that happens all the time in modeling — and solving these little problems is part of the process.

---

Custom Details
To really elevate the structure, I’m incorporating laser-cut doors and window details from Rail Scale Models. These parts are far finer than the original kit pieces and instantly improve the scale appearance of the building.
The combination of:

• upgraded brickwork
  
• laser-cut details
  
• interior lighting
  
• visible structural elements
  

should make this warehouse feel like a real working industrial building instead of just another background structure.

---

A First for Me
Here’s the truth:
I’ve never built a cutaway structure before.
This is completely new territory for me.
There are definitely moments where I’m wondering:

• Will the wall laminations stay flat?
  
• Will the interior brick actually look convincing?
  
• Did I just make this project way harder than it needed to be?
  

But that’s also what makes a project like this exciting.

---

The Vision
If everything goes according to plan, this building will become a centerpiece industry on the club layout.
Instead of just seeing a building sitting on the layout, operators and visitors will be able to look inside and see:

• the warehouse interior
  
• the brick walls
  
• the roof structure
  
• the lighting bringing everything to life
  

It should add a level of depth and storytelling that you don’t usually see in structure models.

---

What’s Next
This is only the beginning of the build.
Coming up next we’ll be working on:

• installing the interior brickwork
  
• fitting the laser-cut windows and doors
  
• designing the interior layout
  
• adding roof trusses and structural supports
  
• planning the lighting system
  

There’s still a lot of work ahead, but the foundation of the project is finally starting to take shape.
And honestly…
It’s starting to look like this crazy idea might actually work.

---

If you enjoy model railroading, structure kitbashing, and detailed HO scale builds, this project is going to be a fun ride.
Stay tuned — because we’re just getting started.
— Jack on Tracks


]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9746 Wed, 24 May 2023 21:51:13 +0000 railandsail]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9746 double deck layout in HO scale,...and utilized almost exclusively Peco
turnouts, which I consider to be some of the best commercial ones available.

Unfortunately I am a little dismayed when I have to shim and fiddle with
them to try to improve their tendencies to 'pick-a-point',... or drop locos
and cars into the chasms of the gap at the frog points.

I also like to operate both American product, and some foreign engines that
have slightly greater flange sizes.

Does anyone make, or try to make a 'gapless frog' turnout??]]> double deck layout in HO scale,...and utilized almost exclusively Peco
turnouts, which I consider to be some of the best commercial ones available.

Unfortunately I am a little dismayed when I have to shim and fiddle with
them to try to improve their tendencies to 'pick-a-point',... or drop locos
and cars into the chasms of the gap at the frog points.

I also like to operate both American product, and some foreign engines that
have slightly greater flange sizes.

Does anyone make, or try to make a 'gapless frog' turnout??]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9665 Fri, 18 Nov 2022 17:14:39 +0000 Schraddel]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9665
the title is correct, not the narrow gauge K-28 but instead the standard gauge C-28 is the object of this thread.










Two years ago Brasstrains had a selection of these brass imports from Key Imports. One was unpainted with some traces of this infamous red foam. One was painted all black and this one shown in the pictures. All 3 were offered with just the same, and i mean very special, low price. I could'nt resist and kept my eyes to this little green loco.
Several weeks later the package arrived here on the other side of the big pond.The photos were made immediately after unboxing.
This is just a introduction what i have had purchased.


Lutz]]>
the title is correct, not the narrow gauge K-28 but instead the standard gauge C-28 is the object of this thread.










Two years ago Brasstrains had a selection of these brass imports from Key Imports. One was unpainted with some traces of this infamous red foam. One was painted all black and this one shown in the pictures. All 3 were offered with just the same, and i mean very special, low price. I could'nt resist and kept my eyes to this little green loco.
Several weeks later the package arrived here on the other side of the big pond.The photos were made immediately after unboxing.
This is just a introduction what i have had purchased.


Lutz]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9654 Tue, 18 Oct 2022 16:16:43 +0000 ezdays]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9654

  Ranger station.JPG (Size: 44.13 KB / Downloads: 890)

  Pioneer park.JPG (Size: 32.35 KB / Downloads: 915) ]]>

  Ranger station.JPG (Size: 44.13 KB / Downloads: 890)

  Pioneer park.JPG (Size: 32.35 KB / Downloads: 915) ]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9561 Sun, 10 Apr 2022 02:10:13 +0000 nachoman]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9561
  20220409_100854(1).jpg (Size: 479.11 KB / Downloads: 501) ]]>
  20220409_100854(1).jpg (Size: 479.11 KB / Downloads: 501) ]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9453 Mon, 06 Dec 2021 03:34:33 +0000 nordk]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9453
At a trainshow today I found a pair of Redball cardboard carsides printed for the Michigan Alkali Company, and purchased them out of curiosity thinking that I might be able to do something with them eventually. A plan began to develop when arrived home and rediscovered a bag of Mantua reefer parts in the junk box that I had previously purchased (and forgotten about). Both are 40' wood reefers, and between the two of them I have the better part of a car, so I figured I would attempt to make something out of a couple bits of almost-somethings.
Here is what I have to work with:






The cardboard sides are going to need bracing and support that the metal car's missing sides never needed, so the first order of business is to construct a a carbody to support and hold everything together. Using the underframe as a guide, I trimmed out the length and width of the car from 1/4" Basswood sheet to form the floor of the carbody. A test-fit revealed I was about 1/8"over-zealous with the razor saw, but a stripwood shim brought everything back into alignment. I then drilled holes in the carbody floor in-line with the bolsters on the underframe.





At first I thought couplers might present a problem. The original coupler boxes are missing from the bag o' parts, but cutting the underframe down to make room for Kadee boxes would make aligning the car ends a more finicky process. Through some trial and error I found that a Kadee No. 213 box is just about the right size and shape to fit, and with some MDC trucks from the truck bin this car will at least roll right.






With this project now looking quite feasible, I cleaned the metal reefer parts to prep them for some painting touch ups. I elected to keep the oxide red as it's plausible and I wasn't able to find any prototype information on Michigan Alkali's cars other than some lettering specifications. With that drying I turned my attention to bracing for the carsides, which I cut to length from 1/2" square stock and glued to the floor of the carbody and clamped to ensure a square and snug fit.





]]>
At a trainshow today I found a pair of Redball cardboard carsides printed for the Michigan Alkali Company, and purchased them out of curiosity thinking that I might be able to do something with them eventually. A plan began to develop when arrived home and rediscovered a bag of Mantua reefer parts in the junk box that I had previously purchased (and forgotten about). Both are 40' wood reefers, and between the two of them I have the better part of a car, so I figured I would attempt to make something out of a couple bits of almost-somethings.
Here is what I have to work with:






The cardboard sides are going to need bracing and support that the metal car's missing sides never needed, so the first order of business is to construct a a carbody to support and hold everything together. Using the underframe as a guide, I trimmed out the length and width of the car from 1/4" Basswood sheet to form the floor of the carbody. A test-fit revealed I was about 1/8"over-zealous with the razor saw, but a stripwood shim brought everything back into alignment. I then drilled holes in the carbody floor in-line with the bolsters on the underframe.





At first I thought couplers might present a problem. The original coupler boxes are missing from the bag o' parts, but cutting the underframe down to make room for Kadee boxes would make aligning the car ends a more finicky process. Through some trial and error I found that a Kadee No. 213 box is just about the right size and shape to fit, and with some MDC trucks from the truck bin this car will at least roll right.






With this project now looking quite feasible, I cleaned the metal reefer parts to prep them for some painting touch ups. I elected to keep the oxide red as it's plausible and I wasn't able to find any prototype information on Michigan Alkali's cars other than some lettering specifications. With that drying I turned my attention to bracing for the carsides, which I cut to length from 1/2" square stock and glued to the floor of the carbody and clamped to ensure a square and snug fit.





]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9288 Thu, 25 Feb 2021 16:36:50 +0000 testone]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9288
a few years ago, exactly said 2017, i purchased this loco:


There were many little bugs with this model loco which kept the price on an comparably low level.





Some missing and bent parts like the railings on the pilot deck.





Or a absent rivet of the valve gear.


Besides of these bugs listed above, the model was running jerky and was jamming although a coreless coil motor was fitted.


Lutz]]>
a few years ago, exactly said 2017, i purchased this loco:


There were many little bugs with this model loco which kept the price on an comparably low level.





Some missing and bent parts like the railings on the pilot deck.





Or a absent rivet of the valve gear.


Besides of these bugs listed above, the model was running jerky and was jamming although a coreless coil motor was fitted.


Lutz]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9283 Sat, 20 Feb 2021 11:07:40 +0000 testone]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9283
by watching such TV series as "Highway Thru Hell" and "Heavy Rescue 401" on youtube, i saw a lot of trucks in Canada which were quite different from from their US conterparts.
This inspired me to kitbash some trucks as decorative pieces for put in modern era.




My first attempt was this heavy delivery reefer truck.
Cab and chassis are from Walthers, the box body and the reefer set were out of my truck grab box. The frame was cut and stretched by means of plastic profiles. Most models of rigid truck models are way too short.









This is the result.


Lutz]]>
by watching such TV series as "Highway Thru Hell" and "Heavy Rescue 401" on youtube, i saw a lot of trucks in Canada which were quite different from from their US conterparts.
This inspired me to kitbash some trucks as decorative pieces for put in modern era.




My first attempt was this heavy delivery reefer truck.
Cab and chassis are from Walthers, the box body and the reefer set were out of my truck grab box. The frame was cut and stretched by means of plastic profiles. Most models of rigid truck models are way too short.









This is the result.


Lutz]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9255 Mon, 04 Jan 2021 22:05:36 +0000 jim currie]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9255
  atsf-p exp.jpg (Size: 205.19 KB / Downloads: 1008)
then while cleaning out some junk boxes i found this  and just couldn't help my self 

  100_1191 exp.jpg (Size: 289.3 KB / Downloads: 972)
ordered some components from tichy will post up dates when order arrives. 
Jim]]>
  atsf-p exp.jpg (Size: 205.19 KB / Downloads: 1008)
then while cleaning out some junk boxes i found this  and just couldn't help my self 

  100_1191 exp.jpg (Size: 289.3 KB / Downloads: 972)
ordered some components from tichy will post up dates when order arrives. 
Jim]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9210 Thu, 29 Oct 2020 02:34:50 +0000 tetters]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9210
I've been pretty tied up the last little while so please excuse the absence.  I decided over this time that I needed to take break from all of the freight car kits and focus on some other projects that could use my attention on the layout.  Namely some structure building.  So i turned to my favorite medium.  Cardstock...or repurposed cereal cardboard.

Below is the area in question that I'd like to tackle.  The goal is to build a back alley scene.  Essentially, show the "business end" of the, well, stores, shops, bars, hotels etc.  While in the ultimate end still giving a casual viewer the idea as to what each building is there for.  I suppose that I could have modeled the fronts of the buildings and created a street scene but that seemed boring to me.  So this is the route I've decided to take.  


  20201024_142416_copy_1164x555[1].jpg (Size: 92.61 KB / Downloads: 1075)

I've been using cardboard mock ups to give me an idea of space in each area.  I'm tackling this row of "buildings".  So lets grab a some cereal board, some printable textures, glue and applicators (toothpicks) and some sharp cutting blades, I use a husky box cutter and #11 Exacto blade for the bulk of my cuts.


  20201028_204723_copy_1164x555[1].jpg (Size: 173.94 KB / Downloads: 1054)

So, not shown is that some of the textures I simply print off on plain 110lbs. white cardstock paper from Michael's.  However for the walls and bracing I like to glue the textures to some cereal box board using some 3M Super 77 spray on adhesive.  It's fast, tacky as all get and doesn't attack the ink jet printer ink on my textures. Stuff like flashing I'll print off on standard 8x11 printer paper as its easier to make fine folds and looks more to scale as metal flashing and such.  I also use various sizes of bass wood, also purchased at Michael's, for bracing and adding some additional support to keep walls straight, etc.


  20201024_141922_copy_1164x555[1].jpg (Size: 124.61 KB / Downloads: 1077)

So I made a rough paper template of the area and cut a plywood base to build my models on top of on the work bench.  Essentially, this rather large base would get chopped up into 3 pieces to make things easier to handle and also to help create some elevation in the scene so that the buildings would all sit on the same plane.  I am modeling the Rockies after all.


  20201024_141940_copy_1164x555[1].jpg (Size: 132.98 KB / Downloads: 1101)


  20201026_001737_HDR_copy_1164x555[1].jpg (Size: 192.66 KB / Downloads: 1098)

So fast forward to the above photo and we start to have something that is beginning to look like a building.  I use Tichy and Grandt Line doors and windows to cheat all little and make my life a tad easier.  My creative process works in such a way that I'll look at photos and study buildings that I'd like to model.  Then I get to work.  I know that buildings have various ceiling heights and I usually pick 10ft...because I like high ceilings, at least on the first floors, then I might step it down to 8ft on the upper floors, depending on what I model.  I also take into account that floor joists could be made from 2x8's, 10's or 12's so I factor that into the height of my walls when laying out a wall.  I then pick windows and doors that I like and cut openings to fit, keeping in mind where these things will be in relation to the interior floor. (There isn't one...not really...but lets pretend there is.)  The second floor is an 8' siding texture that I printed off and then layered using the same texture cut into two board strips and glued to the same texture to create that slanted look.  You cant really see it in the photo, but that's what I did.  The stone work for the foundation is linoleum tile cut into 1/4 inch strips and then chopped into bricks.  Then working upside down glue the bricks one by one to the assembled walls using gap filling CA.  (looking back at that photo, the foundation depicted was built up on the plywood base...which I then scrapped off with a chisel, because it occurred to me that it would be easier to do the stone work the other way around then trying to get the walls to fit the one I built in place).

(whew).  So.  My layout takes place during the late 40's early 50's.  So this particular building used to be a occupied by something else...I don't know what, just something...trust me on this one it's the truth I swear it, now its a tavern and next door against the back drop will be Rita's Diner. Which will be tucked into the back drop and just a glimpse of patrons dining on her famous back bacon, eggs and toast breakfast special can be seen.  The building's architecture is based (or will be) off of Victorian influences with a Mansard style roof making up the third floor...but before that...


  20201026_223836_HDR_copy_1164x555[1].jpg (Size: 163.04 KB / Downloads: 1035)

Lets add those walls for Rita's and show the revised foundation built for the buildings. Ill use trim and stone work to hide all manner of sins on the corners of the building to hide the gaps.  But for now I'm going to break up this into a couple of separate posts for everyone's sanity...but mostly my for my own.]]>
I've been pretty tied up the last little while so please excuse the absence.  I decided over this time that I needed to take break from all of the freight car kits and focus on some other projects that could use my attention on the layout.  Namely some structure building.  So i turned to my favorite medium.  Cardstock...or repurposed cereal cardboard.

Below is the area in question that I'd like to tackle.  The goal is to build a back alley scene.  Essentially, show the "business end" of the, well, stores, shops, bars, hotels etc.  While in the ultimate end still giving a casual viewer the idea as to what each building is there for.  I suppose that I could have modeled the fronts of the buildings and created a street scene but that seemed boring to me.  So this is the route I've decided to take.  


  20201024_142416_copy_1164x555[1].jpg (Size: 92.61 KB / Downloads: 1075)

I've been using cardboard mock ups to give me an idea of space in each area.  I'm tackling this row of "buildings".  So lets grab a some cereal board, some printable textures, glue and applicators (toothpicks) and some sharp cutting blades, I use a husky box cutter and #11 Exacto blade for the bulk of my cuts.


  20201028_204723_copy_1164x555[1].jpg (Size: 173.94 KB / Downloads: 1054)

So, not shown is that some of the textures I simply print off on plain 110lbs. white cardstock paper from Michael's.  However for the walls and bracing I like to glue the textures to some cereal box board using some 3M Super 77 spray on adhesive.  It's fast, tacky as all get and doesn't attack the ink jet printer ink on my textures. Stuff like flashing I'll print off on standard 8x11 printer paper as its easier to make fine folds and looks more to scale as metal flashing and such.  I also use various sizes of bass wood, also purchased at Michael's, for bracing and adding some additional support to keep walls straight, etc.


  20201024_141922_copy_1164x555[1].jpg (Size: 124.61 KB / Downloads: 1077)

So I made a rough paper template of the area and cut a plywood base to build my models on top of on the work bench.  Essentially, this rather large base would get chopped up into 3 pieces to make things easier to handle and also to help create some elevation in the scene so that the buildings would all sit on the same plane.  I am modeling the Rockies after all.


  20201024_141940_copy_1164x555[1].jpg (Size: 132.98 KB / Downloads: 1101)


  20201026_001737_HDR_copy_1164x555[1].jpg (Size: 192.66 KB / Downloads: 1098)

So fast forward to the above photo and we start to have something that is beginning to look like a building.  I use Tichy and Grandt Line doors and windows to cheat all little and make my life a tad easier.  My creative process works in such a way that I'll look at photos and study buildings that I'd like to model.  Then I get to work.  I know that buildings have various ceiling heights and I usually pick 10ft...because I like high ceilings, at least on the first floors, then I might step it down to 8ft on the upper floors, depending on what I model.  I also take into account that floor joists could be made from 2x8's, 10's or 12's so I factor that into the height of my walls when laying out a wall.  I then pick windows and doors that I like and cut openings to fit, keeping in mind where these things will be in relation to the interior floor. (There isn't one...not really...but lets pretend there is.)  The second floor is an 8' siding texture that I printed off and then layered using the same texture cut into two board strips and glued to the same texture to create that slanted look.  You cant really see it in the photo, but that's what I did.  The stone work for the foundation is linoleum tile cut into 1/4 inch strips and then chopped into bricks.  Then working upside down glue the bricks one by one to the assembled walls using gap filling CA.  (looking back at that photo, the foundation depicted was built up on the plywood base...which I then scrapped off with a chisel, because it occurred to me that it would be easier to do the stone work the other way around then trying to get the walls to fit the one I built in place).

(whew).  So.  My layout takes place during the late 40's early 50's.  So this particular building used to be a occupied by something else...I don't know what, just something...trust me on this one it's the truth I swear it, now its a tavern and next door against the back drop will be Rita's Diner. Which will be tucked into the back drop and just a glimpse of patrons dining on her famous back bacon, eggs and toast breakfast special can be seen.  The building's architecture is based (or will be) off of Victorian influences with a Mansard style roof making up the third floor...but before that...


  20201026_223836_HDR_copy_1164x555[1].jpg (Size: 163.04 KB / Downloads: 1035)

Lets add those walls for Rita's and show the revised foundation built for the buildings. Ill use trim and stone work to hide all manner of sins on the corners of the building to hide the gaps.  But for now I'm going to break up this into a couple of separate posts for everyone's sanity...but mostly my for my own.]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9197 Thu, 01 Oct 2020 04:20:20 +0000 doctorwayne]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9197
Some years ago (September, 2002 to be exact), I read an interesting article in RMC, showing how to convert an Accurail 2-bay USRA hopper into a reasonable representation of the TH&B's channel-side hoppers.  It was written by a fellow Hamiltonian whom I knew by-name, but had never met.
I thought his starting point using the USRA hopper to be rather unusual, as Stewart (now Bowser) already offered a channel-side hopper, so I promptly bought a pair of them. 
I mostly followed the article (nine pages, and lots of photos of the real ones and of the models, too) and when they were done, I took one to a hobbyshop which I frequented (as did the author), and left it for his assessment of my work.
A week-or-so later, I returned to the store, and learned that he had pronounced it to be "nicely done"....but noted that the grabiron-style ladders at the car's corners were incorrect - on the real cars, the corner ladders were done as grabirons, with the side one comprised of a drop-type grabiron on the bottom, and 4 straight ones above that.  On the adjacent end, the counterpart of the drop-grab on the side was the car's endsill, while the next two steps were drop-style grabs, and then two straight ones at the top.
I had used the proper corresponding styles on my version, but had installed them with the mounting points level with those on the side of the car, whereas, to be correct, the step portions of the grabirons were to be at the same level as those on the side.
Half-embarrassed by my mistake, and half-pleased that it otherwise was "nicely done", I rushed home to correct the errors.
A couple or three weeks ago, I happened onto the same issue of RMC, and as I read and re-read the how-to and pored over the photos, I realised that there were still other mistakes which needed to be addressed...well, they bugged me enough that I decided that they should be corrected.

Here's one of the two originals after its initial update...


  Freight car photos and layout views 099(Custom).jpg (Size: 77.03 KB / Downloads: 1258)


  Freight car photos and layout views 0100 (Custom).jpg (Size: 108 KB / Downloads: 1193)

I first went to work correcting further mistakes on the two originals, but neglected to take in-progress photos.  In the meantime, I purchased another six cars, two of them r-t-r in TH&B paint and lettering (albeit both with the same car number), and four undecorated ones.
Furthermore, on re-reading the write-up in RMC, I learned that the original real cars were built in 1914 (at National Steel Car, a Hamilton, Ontario company), and extensively re-built in in the early 1930s with new sides (a prototype photo shows one with slope sheets and hoppers intact, but no sides or ends).
Then, in 1943, the railroad started a project to convert all 150 cars to AB brakes.  That program finished in August of 1945.
When I built the first two cars all those years ago, I wasn't too concerned with the re-weigh dates, which were in the '40s, but when I backdated my layout to the "late '30s-era", the dates became more of an issue.
That resulted in the rebuilt cars being somewhat out-of-whack with the rest of the layout. 

I don't really want to move the layout into the '40s, but I am re-building the hoppers as if they represent the real ones in the period between 1943-45.  Therefore, some will have AB-type brakes (the two re-done originals, plus the two r-t-r ones lettered for TH&B - one with its number changed, along with one of the undecorated cars.

The remaining three undecorated cars are being modified to represent cars not-yet with AB brakes, so they'll have the original K-type brakes (split, somewhat similar to Westinghouse K-D type brakes...but basically created using regular K-C brakes, which had the cylinder, reservoir, and AB valve all in a single unit) and older style grabiron ladders, along with stem-winder brake gear. 

There are another four undecorated cars to be done, too, but they're currently trapped south of the border, where a good friend has them for safekeeping.  As I make the parts for the ones on-hand, I also set aside copies for those other four cars, lest I forget how I made the parts when I finally have those cars here.  They'll be re-done to represent cars not yet updated with AB brakes.

Here are some in-progress photos, showing one of the two r-t-r cars -


  TH&B - 3 - re-sized.JPG (Size: 383.84 KB / Downloads: 1289)


  TH&B - 4 - re-sized.JPG (Size: 301.48 KB / Downloads: 1255)


  TH&B - 5 - re-sized.JPG (Size: 289.35 KB / Downloads: 1283)

...the porcupine-look, with the styrene rod sticking out all over the place, was used to plug holes where grabirons had been removed or where I had drilled holes in the wrong places - the rod is .020" in diameter, so I drilled-out the smaller holes to about .016", then dipped the end of the rod material into MEK for a few seconds, to soften the plastic, then forced it into the smaller hole.  I had to do a lot of such plugging, as lots of holes were in the wrong places originally.

The photos below are of one of the two original cars (the end sill is mounted slightly higher than on the newer cars, as Bowser modified the newer ones slightly)- the two originals were the most difficult to correct, and will have to remain somewhat different from the other 10, although they're at least closer to "correct" than they've ever been...


Here's the A-end...


  TH&B - 6 - A-END - re-sized.JPG (Size: 313.26 KB / Downloads: 1207)

...B-end...


  TH&B - 6 - B-END - re-sized.JPG (Size: 268.11 KB / Downloads: 1237)

...and a side view...


  TH&B - 6 - SIDE - re-sized.JPG (Size: 332.08 KB / Downloads: 1207)

This is the A-end of one of the two r-t-r cars, with the end sill more like it should be...


  TH&B - 7 - A-END - re-sized.JPG (Size: 319.18 KB / Downloads: 1204)

...and the B-end...


  TH&B - 7 - B-END - re-sized.JPG (Size: 291.23 KB / Downloads: 1255)

...and a side view...


  TH&B - 7 - SIDE - re-sized.JPG (Size: 376.89 KB / Downloads: 1245)

Here's the A-end of the undecorated car that will have the AB-type brakes, too...


  TH&B - 8 - A-END - re-sized.JPG (Size: 313.34 KB / Downloads: 1236)

...the B-end...


  TH&B - 8 - B-END - re-sized.JPG (Size: 342.99 KB / Downloads: 1223)

...and a side view...


  TH&B - 8 - SIDE - re-sized.JPG (Size: 372.58 KB / Downloads: 1163)

I'm guessing that I'm about to exceed the attachment limit, so will continue in the next post...]]>
Some years ago (September, 2002 to be exact), I read an interesting article in RMC, showing how to convert an Accurail 2-bay USRA hopper into a reasonable representation of the TH&B's channel-side hoppers.  It was written by a fellow Hamiltonian whom I knew by-name, but had never met.
I thought his starting point using the USRA hopper to be rather unusual, as Stewart (now Bowser) already offered a channel-side hopper, so I promptly bought a pair of them. 
I mostly followed the article (nine pages, and lots of photos of the real ones and of the models, too) and when they were done, I took one to a hobbyshop which I frequented (as did the author), and left it for his assessment of my work.
A week-or-so later, I returned to the store, and learned that he had pronounced it to be "nicely done"....but noted that the grabiron-style ladders at the car's corners were incorrect - on the real cars, the corner ladders were done as grabirons, with the side one comprised of a drop-type grabiron on the bottom, and 4 straight ones above that.  On the adjacent end, the counterpart of the drop-grab on the side was the car's endsill, while the next two steps were drop-style grabs, and then two straight ones at the top.
I had used the proper corresponding styles on my version, but had installed them with the mounting points level with those on the side of the car, whereas, to be correct, the step portions of the grabirons were to be at the same level as those on the side.
Half-embarrassed by my mistake, and half-pleased that it otherwise was "nicely done", I rushed home to correct the errors.
A couple or three weeks ago, I happened onto the same issue of RMC, and as I read and re-read the how-to and pored over the photos, I realised that there were still other mistakes which needed to be addressed...well, they bugged me enough that I decided that they should be corrected.

Here's one of the two originals after its initial update...


  Freight car photos and layout views 099(Custom).jpg (Size: 77.03 KB / Downloads: 1258)


  Freight car photos and layout views 0100 (Custom).jpg (Size: 108 KB / Downloads: 1193)

I first went to work correcting further mistakes on the two originals, but neglected to take in-progress photos.  In the meantime, I purchased another six cars, two of them r-t-r in TH&B paint and lettering (albeit both with the same car number), and four undecorated ones.
Furthermore, on re-reading the write-up in RMC, I learned that the original real cars were built in 1914 (at National Steel Car, a Hamilton, Ontario company), and extensively re-built in in the early 1930s with new sides (a prototype photo shows one with slope sheets and hoppers intact, but no sides or ends).
Then, in 1943, the railroad started a project to convert all 150 cars to AB brakes.  That program finished in August of 1945.
When I built the first two cars all those years ago, I wasn't too concerned with the re-weigh dates, which were in the '40s, but when I backdated my layout to the "late '30s-era", the dates became more of an issue.
That resulted in the rebuilt cars being somewhat out-of-whack with the rest of the layout. 

I don't really want to move the layout into the '40s, but I am re-building the hoppers as if they represent the real ones in the period between 1943-45.  Therefore, some will have AB-type brakes (the two re-done originals, plus the two r-t-r ones lettered for TH&B - one with its number changed, along with one of the undecorated cars.

The remaining three undecorated cars are being modified to represent cars not-yet with AB brakes, so they'll have the original K-type brakes (split, somewhat similar to Westinghouse K-D type brakes...but basically created using regular K-C brakes, which had the cylinder, reservoir, and AB valve all in a single unit) and older style grabiron ladders, along with stem-winder brake gear. 

There are another four undecorated cars to be done, too, but they're currently trapped south of the border, where a good friend has them for safekeeping.  As I make the parts for the ones on-hand, I also set aside copies for those other four cars, lest I forget how I made the parts when I finally have those cars here.  They'll be re-done to represent cars not yet updated with AB brakes.

Here are some in-progress photos, showing one of the two r-t-r cars -


  TH&B - 3 - re-sized.JPG (Size: 383.84 KB / Downloads: 1289)


  TH&B - 4 - re-sized.JPG (Size: 301.48 KB / Downloads: 1255)


  TH&B - 5 - re-sized.JPG (Size: 289.35 KB / Downloads: 1283)

...the porcupine-look, with the styrene rod sticking out all over the place, was used to plug holes where grabirons had been removed or where I had drilled holes in the wrong places - the rod is .020" in diameter, so I drilled-out the smaller holes to about .016", then dipped the end of the rod material into MEK for a few seconds, to soften the plastic, then forced it into the smaller hole.  I had to do a lot of such plugging, as lots of holes were in the wrong places originally.

The photos below are of one of the two original cars (the end sill is mounted slightly higher than on the newer cars, as Bowser modified the newer ones slightly)- the two originals were the most difficult to correct, and will have to remain somewhat different from the other 10, although they're at least closer to "correct" than they've ever been...


Here's the A-end...


  TH&B - 6 - A-END - re-sized.JPG (Size: 313.26 KB / Downloads: 1207)

...B-end...


  TH&B - 6 - B-END - re-sized.JPG (Size: 268.11 KB / Downloads: 1237)

...and a side view...


  TH&B - 6 - SIDE - re-sized.JPG (Size: 332.08 KB / Downloads: 1207)

This is the A-end of one of the two r-t-r cars, with the end sill more like it should be...


  TH&B - 7 - A-END - re-sized.JPG (Size: 319.18 KB / Downloads: 1204)

...and the B-end...


  TH&B - 7 - B-END - re-sized.JPG (Size: 291.23 KB / Downloads: 1255)

...and a side view...


  TH&B - 7 - SIDE - re-sized.JPG (Size: 376.89 KB / Downloads: 1245)

Here's the A-end of the undecorated car that will have the AB-type brakes, too...


  TH&B - 8 - A-END - re-sized.JPG (Size: 313.34 KB / Downloads: 1236)

...the B-end...


  TH&B - 8 - B-END - re-sized.JPG (Size: 342.99 KB / Downloads: 1223)

...and a side view...


  TH&B - 8 - SIDE - re-sized.JPG (Size: 372.58 KB / Downloads: 1163)

I'm guessing that I'm about to exceed the attachment limit, so will continue in the next post...]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9153 Tue, 07 Jul 2020 10:37:34 +0000 testone]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9153
some long time ago, i purchased some unbuilt Westerfield kits. In times of lockdown i had much of free spare time and decided to use this for modelrailroad purposes. So i put these nearly forgotten kits onto my workbench. These are old school flat kits made out of this greyish polyester resind filled with metal powder. 


This is why i called the thread WARP 10. They all were extreme warped und the resin is also extreme brittle.
Really no shake-the-box-kits.

As i have some Santa Fe affinity, i started with a AT&SF Boxcar first:

This is the picture on the instruction sheet how it should look alike when it is finished.







This is what i found in the box.





And complemented with Kadee trucks and couplers w. boxes.





Some body told me to spread the warped parts onto a level base and put them adjacent into the baking oven. Temperature about 60°C and let it stay thee several hours. It went well for about 2 hours until wife comes home. Increased eardrum strain.
On the photo there are the parts for three other boxcars also.


Two of them are Fowler Patent Box Cars.


Lutz]]>
some long time ago, i purchased some unbuilt Westerfield kits. In times of lockdown i had much of free spare time and decided to use this for modelrailroad purposes. So i put these nearly forgotten kits onto my workbench. These are old school flat kits made out of this greyish polyester resind filled with metal powder. 


This is why i called the thread WARP 10. They all were extreme warped und the resin is also extreme brittle.
Really no shake-the-box-kits.

As i have some Santa Fe affinity, i started with a AT&SF Boxcar first:

This is the picture on the instruction sheet how it should look alike when it is finished.







This is what i found in the box.





And complemented with Kadee trucks and couplers w. boxes.





Some body told me to spread the warped parts onto a level base and put them adjacent into the baking oven. Temperature about 60°C and let it stay thee several hours. It went well for about 2 hours until wife comes home. Increased eardrum strain.
On the photo there are the parts for three other boxcars also.


Two of them are Fowler Patent Box Cars.


Lutz]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9032 Sat, 09 Nov 2019 11:37:56 +0000 testone]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9032
long ago when i posted my last brass rebuilt. This time i like to start a new thread about the rebuildung of an second hand NJ Custom Brass model of an AT&SF 1800 Class Prairie. This rebuilt was done some years earlier, but still yet not posted here.


Several years ago i won a ebay auction, not too expensive, but the model was in rather rough condition.



Some was bent.









There was heavy damage by the detoriating foam. Especially on the driver's side.



And as you can see, the finish was still pristine on those areas where the foam did not touch the surface. It would be better if the preowner has had wrapped his model into the provided plastic foil to avoid contact with the foam. Then the loco would be still in pristine condition.

@ Brass Owners:
Gentlemen please wrap your preciousities into plastic sheet when you intend to store them in their own boxes to avoid future damage by detoriating foam.



And even a bump on the tender side.

But i got what i had paid for and the damaged loco was clearly visible onto the photos connected to the auction.
Until now nothing was done, just as it was bought and unpacked.




A preview when the loco was finished some years later.]]>
long ago when i posted my last brass rebuilt. This time i like to start a new thread about the rebuildung of an second hand NJ Custom Brass model of an AT&SF 1800 Class Prairie. This rebuilt was done some years earlier, but still yet not posted here.


Several years ago i won a ebay auction, not too expensive, but the model was in rather rough condition.



Some was bent.









There was heavy damage by the detoriating foam. Especially on the driver's side.



And as you can see, the finish was still pristine on those areas where the foam did not touch the surface. It would be better if the preowner has had wrapped his model into the provided plastic foil to avoid contact with the foam. Then the loco would be still in pristine condition.

@ Brass Owners:
Gentlemen please wrap your preciousities into plastic sheet when you intend to store them in their own boxes to avoid future damage by detoriating foam.



And even a bump on the tender side.

But i got what i had paid for and the damaged loco was clearly visible onto the photos connected to the auction.
Until now nothing was done, just as it was bought and unpacked.




A preview when the loco was finished some years later.]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9030 Fri, 08 Nov 2019 06:45:38 +0000 doctorwayne]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9030 Lutz for both leading the way, and for providing some useful info for my first foray into DCC.

I'm not going to provide a step-by-step  "how-to", as Lutz has already covered the topic rather well.  Instead, I'll merely offer some photos of my progress, with a few comments where they might be useful.  Questions and/or comments are, of course, welcomed.  The kit was donated by a friend, and I built it for another friend.

A couple photos of the running gear...





...and the all-wheel pick-up on the locomotive...



...and tender...



...along with a look inside the tender, where the power wiring is organised ....



...and routed to the decoder...



Here's the tender with its back-up light lit...






Here's the LED which provides the light....



...and a look with it, unlit, inserted into a small hole drilled into the back of an MV Products lense...



The kit came with an impressive amount of brass detail castings, but some were missing, so I used either similar parts which I had on-hand, or scratchbuilt something appropriate.

A few random views of the fireman's side of the loco...

 





...and tender...



On the engineer's side of the locomotive, I decided to alter the running board to match that shown in a prototype photo.  The bumped-up area allowed for the installation of a power-reverse, but it also required new mountings for the piping which forms the cooling coils for the air provided by the air pump...



Continued in next post.....]]> Lutz for both leading the way, and for providing some useful info for my first foray into DCC.

I'm not going to provide a step-by-step  "how-to", as Lutz has already covered the topic rather well.  Instead, I'll merely offer some photos of my progress, with a few comments where they might be useful.  Questions and/or comments are, of course, welcomed.  The kit was donated by a friend, and I built it for another friend.

A couple photos of the running gear...





...and the all-wheel pick-up on the locomotive...



...and tender...



...along with a look inside the tender, where the power wiring is organised ....



...and routed to the decoder...



Here's the tender with its back-up light lit...






Here's the LED which provides the light....



...and a look with it, unlit, inserted into a small hole drilled into the back of an MV Products lense...



The kit came with an impressive amount of brass detail castings, but some were missing, so I used either similar parts which I had on-hand, or scratchbuilt something appropriate.

A few random views of the fireman's side of the loco...

 





...and tender...



On the engineer's side of the locomotive, I decided to alter the running board to match that shown in a prototype photo.  The bumped-up area allowed for the installation of a power-reverse, but it also required new mountings for the piping which forms the cooling coils for the air provided by the air pump...



Continued in next post.....]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9026 Thu, 31 Oct 2019 06:26:51 +0000 leon]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9026 ]]> ]]>