https://bigbluetrains.com/ Sun, 24 May 2026 23:53:02 +0000 MyBB https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10059 Tue, 02 Sep 2025 17:04:12 +0000 Charlie B]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10059 Charlie]]> Charlie]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10039 Mon, 09 Jun 2025 03:45:36 +0000 Charlie B]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10039
  400.jpg (Size: 416.37 KB / Downloads: 394)

He will be learning how to use an air brush because he has hundreds of old models he wants to freshen up. He isn't concerned about value because rusty items to him need to be repaired and as a guy with years in the body shop and paint business I agree but I am getting beyond my prime so I need to pass the torch. 

Thanks
Charlie]]>
  400.jpg (Size: 416.37 KB / Downloads: 394)

He will be learning how to use an air brush because he has hundreds of old models he wants to freshen up. He isn't concerned about value because rusty items to him need to be repaired and as a guy with years in the body shop and paint business I agree but I am getting beyond my prime so I need to pass the torch. 

Thanks
Charlie]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10027 Fri, 25 Apr 2025 17:24:33 +0000 Charlie B]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=10027
  19761211 LV 638 conway pa 689.jpg (Size: 51.96 KB / Downloads: 435)
Charlie]]>
  19761211 LV 638 conway pa 689.jpg (Size: 51.96 KB / Downloads: 435)
Charlie]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9851 Thu, 14 Mar 2024 18:16:37 +0000 nachoman]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9851
I recently picked up a 25+ year old Bowser 2-8-0 kit.  It has the DC-71 open frame motor. 

The kit has gone together well so far, but upon opening the motor I noticed lots of "magnetic dust" on the magnet.  I cleaned as much off as I could by vacuuming and compressed air.  Upon bench testing the motor detached from the chassis, it is overloading my Tech II power pack almost instantly when I get above 1/4 throttle.  When it overloads, the motor is very hot (more than just warm - but not to the point of smoking). I know these motors are current hogs, but I think this pack should be able to handle it.  I cleaned the commutator and brushes, and the armature spins freely.  The armature does not look damaged at all from a mechanical standpoint.  I tried replacing the magnet with neodymium magnets, but the result is the same.  The motor otherwise starts fine and runs smoothly at low speed.

Anything else to check here before I call this motor dead?  I may fiddle with the spring strength on the brushes, but the only other thing I can think of is that the armature has a short somewhere in the windings.

Thoughts?  I contacted Bowser, but if I have to replace the motor I will probably upgrade to a can motor to reduce current draw.]]>
I recently picked up a 25+ year old Bowser 2-8-0 kit.  It has the DC-71 open frame motor. 

The kit has gone together well so far, but upon opening the motor I noticed lots of "magnetic dust" on the magnet.  I cleaned as much off as I could by vacuuming and compressed air.  Upon bench testing the motor detached from the chassis, it is overloading my Tech II power pack almost instantly when I get above 1/4 throttle.  When it overloads, the motor is very hot (more than just warm - but not to the point of smoking). I know these motors are current hogs, but I think this pack should be able to handle it.  I cleaned the commutator and brushes, and the armature spins freely.  The armature does not look damaged at all from a mechanical standpoint.  I tried replacing the magnet with neodymium magnets, but the result is the same.  The motor otherwise starts fine and runs smoothly at low speed.

Anything else to check here before I call this motor dead?  I may fiddle with the spring strength on the brushes, but the only other thing I can think of is that the armature has a short somewhere in the windings.

Thoughts?  I contacted Bowser, but if I have to replace the motor I will probably upgrade to a can motor to reduce current draw.]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9850 Wed, 13 Mar 2024 13:15:03 +0000 Schraddel]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9850
these fine locos are plagued with cracked gears. But not only the bevel pinions in the trucks are prone for cracking. There is a tiny spur gear deep hidden in the center gearbox. Here i post several photos to show in a step by step manner how to get there:


It's 3-Truck Climax with Walschaerts valve gear. The trucks are simply fixed by snap fasteners like in textiles. They can be easily clipped off.


Remove the 2 screws on the bottom plate of the center gearbox. And lift off the cover.


Remove output shaft.


Unscrew and remove valve gear on both sides.


Lift out jackshaft.


The boilershell is fixed with 4 screws:
2 unter the cab sides.
2 under the boiler.


Unscrew the small PCB and pry off gear cover.


Remove motor screws and motor.


Then you get acess to this screw hidden under the motor. Remove it.


Then you are able to lift out the center gear box.


Beware of the strutted frames. They are partly mounted on the gear box and have to be removed there.


Remove the screws on the side of the gear box.


Lift out this gear shaft.


Look an that! This is the faulty piece, a cracked spur gear (10 teeth, Module 0,5, shaft diameter 1.5mm)
Only the first releases are concerned. Later Bachmann made the little spur gear out of brass.
Remounting is in reversed order.
Hope this is helping somebody.

Lutz]]>
these fine locos are plagued with cracked gears. But not only the bevel pinions in the trucks are prone for cracking. There is a tiny spur gear deep hidden in the center gearbox. Here i post several photos to show in a step by step manner how to get there:


It's 3-Truck Climax with Walschaerts valve gear. The trucks are simply fixed by snap fasteners like in textiles. They can be easily clipped off.


Remove the 2 screws on the bottom plate of the center gearbox. And lift off the cover.


Remove output shaft.


Unscrew and remove valve gear on both sides.


Lift out jackshaft.


The boilershell is fixed with 4 screws:
2 unter the cab sides.
2 under the boiler.


Unscrew the small PCB and pry off gear cover.


Remove motor screws and motor.


Then you get acess to this screw hidden under the motor. Remove it.


Then you are able to lift out the center gear box.


Beware of the strutted frames. They are partly mounted on the gear box and have to be removed there.


Remove the screws on the side of the gear box.


Lift out this gear shaft.


Look an that! This is the faulty piece, a cracked spur gear (10 teeth, Module 0,5, shaft diameter 1.5mm)
Only the first releases are concerned. Later Bachmann made the little spur gear out of brass.
Remounting is in reversed order.
Hope this is helping somebody.

Lutz]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9811 Thu, 21 Dec 2023 05:49:15 +0000 LiveSteamer]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9811
It could be the fact that the engine is probably well over 30 years old and it could just be wearing out and need a new motor. I don't know, I just don't want to bench this engine as I know how much it means to my girlfriend and I promised I would get the engine up and running and it was then this happened. Murphy's Law at best I guess. Any help would be appreciated.]]>
It could be the fact that the engine is probably well over 30 years old and it could just be wearing out and need a new motor. I don't know, I just don't want to bench this engine as I know how much it means to my girlfriend and I promised I would get the engine up and running and it was then this happened. Murphy's Law at best I guess. Any help would be appreciated.]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9732 Mon, 24 Apr 2023 14:24:15 +0000 tompm]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9732
In DCC it runs erratically. Sometimes it runs smoothly and others it slows down to a crawl and shutters. I am not sure if some of this has to do with the fact that currently only have the layout has feeders. This poor running seems to occur mostly in the sections without feeders. However it will randomly slow down in the section with feeders also. At times it has troubles with going through switches. The sound turns on as soon you start to turn the throttle knob. On a couple of occasions after I have turned the throttle to zero it continues running at full speed. On a couple of times it has continued running after I press the emergency stop button.

Just to be sure there was nothing major wrong with the track I ran several of my other DCC locos from Broadway Limited, Bachmann, Atlas, and Rapido. They all ran with no problems.

I tested the loco in DC. The sound comes on as soon as you turn the knob. The loco does not move until the voltage reaches almost 11. It actually runs pretty smooth in DC. I don’t remember any stalling or slowing down including going through the switches.

Anyone have any ideas of what is going on? What additional testing can I try?

I have heard mixed reviews on other MTH’s HO locomotives. This is my first MTH loco and thus far I am not impressed.]]>
In DCC it runs erratically. Sometimes it runs smoothly and others it slows down to a crawl and shutters. I am not sure if some of this has to do with the fact that currently only have the layout has feeders. This poor running seems to occur mostly in the sections without feeders. However it will randomly slow down in the section with feeders also. At times it has troubles with going through switches. The sound turns on as soon you start to turn the throttle knob. On a couple of occasions after I have turned the throttle to zero it continues running at full speed. On a couple of times it has continued running after I press the emergency stop button.

Just to be sure there was nothing major wrong with the track I ran several of my other DCC locos from Broadway Limited, Bachmann, Atlas, and Rapido. They all ran with no problems.

I tested the loco in DC. The sound comes on as soon as you turn the knob. The loco does not move until the voltage reaches almost 11. It actually runs pretty smooth in DC. I don’t remember any stalling or slowing down including going through the switches.

Anyone have any ideas of what is going on? What additional testing can I try?

I have heard mixed reviews on other MTH’s HO locomotives. This is my first MTH loco and thus far I am not impressed.]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9711 Sun, 19 Feb 2023 02:02:05 +0000 BR60103]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9711
Paint. Now that Floquil is gone, what range of paint will work on metal?  Is there a good primer to use? Will it work on wood as well?

Glue: I need to glue a metal piece to the wood floor and I think it should take some strain.  I used to use Goo (I have an old tube) but I was always getting some squeezing out of the gaps. The hobby shop sold me some gap-filling ACC. Will that do?

Thanks.]]>
Paint. Now that Floquil is gone, what range of paint will work on metal?  Is there a good primer to use? Will it work on wood as well?

Glue: I need to glue a metal piece to the wood floor and I think it should take some strain.  I used to use Goo (I have an old tube) but I was always getting some squeezing out of the gaps. The hobby shop sold me some gap-filling ACC. Will that do?

Thanks.]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9694 Tue, 24 Jan 2023 00:26:32 +0000 TMo]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9694
I run Conrail and Delaware & Hudson on my Lehigh Valley Gorge layout, circa August 1976.

Until last year, my typical D&H consist was two C628's and two RS36's, all in Blue Lighting stripe.  Conventional, all Alco - the D&H pretty much up until the formation of Conrail.  

A funny thing happened when Conrail was stood up - the U.S. Government wanted to at least have the appearance that there was still competition in the northeast for rail traffic after the formation of a giant amalgamation of 5 Class I railroads.  The poor little D&H was to be that competition.  The D&H was granted trackage rights from Washington D.C. up through Buffalo, given responsibility for running TOFC trains (one of the few lucrative freight packages in 1976), and given GP39-2's (Reading's last new locomotives), some GP38's from the Lehigh Valley (last power purchases by the LV), and some C420's.

Forced into this role, things got a little insane for the little D&H.  The red LV and green RR locomotives got quickly patched and immediately placed into service.  And some of those locomotives kept their original colors and initial patches for years.

I always liked the green dip paint scheme that the Reading used on their GP39-2's, and I have a deep affection for anything in LV livery.  

2 years ago I saw that Athearn was releasing some GP39-2's, and one of them was a patched Reading unit for the D&H.  I decided I had to get that one, and for Christmas last year I spent more money than I ever have on a locomotive, aided by a couple of gift certificates from my wife.

In recent months I began to get the itch to get a LV GP38 and turn it into a patched D&H.

Problem was, a lot of the LV GP38's offered out there on the used market are pretty poor representations.  However, Athearn had released a DC unit about 20 years ago, and I saw a couple for sale at what I thought was a somewhat reasonable cost.  Decided if I won the auction that I would turn it into a DCC model with the necessary D&H patching.

Won this one last week:


  gp38lv.jpg (Size: 21.24 KB / Downloads: 1061)

I have a Digitrax DH126P decoder that I'd like to put in it, and aside from the patching, there are a few other additions I'd like to make.  You're invited for the ride!

Tasks: 

1)  Remove the DC-related hardware
2)  Add the decoder for motor control
3)  Add LED's for the front and rear lights
4)  Paint over the LV logos on the front and rear diamonds and long hood
5)  Add a "7" in front of the road number on the cab
6)  Redo the road numbers on the top of the cabs at both ends
7)  Add a plow
8)  Add MU hoses
9)  Weather the whole locomotive

I made some purchases.  LV decals (for the "7"), D&H patch decals (GP39-specific, but I think they can work just fine for what I want to use them for).  Also rooted through my stock and pulled out a snow plow, the decoder, the wiring harness, and the MU hoses.

The end result will be something very close to this: RailPictures.Net Photo: D&H 7324 Delaware & Hudson EMD GP38-2 at Enola, Pennsylvania by George W. Hamlin

Stay tuned for some progress and pictures.]]>
I run Conrail and Delaware & Hudson on my Lehigh Valley Gorge layout, circa August 1976.

Until last year, my typical D&H consist was two C628's and two RS36's, all in Blue Lighting stripe.  Conventional, all Alco - the D&H pretty much up until the formation of Conrail.  

A funny thing happened when Conrail was stood up - the U.S. Government wanted to at least have the appearance that there was still competition in the northeast for rail traffic after the formation of a giant amalgamation of 5 Class I railroads.  The poor little D&H was to be that competition.  The D&H was granted trackage rights from Washington D.C. up through Buffalo, given responsibility for running TOFC trains (one of the few lucrative freight packages in 1976), and given GP39-2's (Reading's last new locomotives), some GP38's from the Lehigh Valley (last power purchases by the LV), and some C420's.

Forced into this role, things got a little insane for the little D&H.  The red LV and green RR locomotives got quickly patched and immediately placed into service.  And some of those locomotives kept their original colors and initial patches for years.

I always liked the green dip paint scheme that the Reading used on their GP39-2's, and I have a deep affection for anything in LV livery.  

2 years ago I saw that Athearn was releasing some GP39-2's, and one of them was a patched Reading unit for the D&H.  I decided I had to get that one, and for Christmas last year I spent more money than I ever have on a locomotive, aided by a couple of gift certificates from my wife.

In recent months I began to get the itch to get a LV GP38 and turn it into a patched D&H.

Problem was, a lot of the LV GP38's offered out there on the used market are pretty poor representations.  However, Athearn had released a DC unit about 20 years ago, and I saw a couple for sale at what I thought was a somewhat reasonable cost.  Decided if I won the auction that I would turn it into a DCC model with the necessary D&H patching.

Won this one last week:


  gp38lv.jpg (Size: 21.24 KB / Downloads: 1061)

I have a Digitrax DH126P decoder that I'd like to put in it, and aside from the patching, there are a few other additions I'd like to make.  You're invited for the ride!

Tasks: 

1)  Remove the DC-related hardware
2)  Add the decoder for motor control
3)  Add LED's for the front and rear lights
4)  Paint over the LV logos on the front and rear diamonds and long hood
5)  Add a "7" in front of the road number on the cab
6)  Redo the road numbers on the top of the cabs at both ends
7)  Add a plow
8)  Add MU hoses
9)  Weather the whole locomotive

I made some purchases.  LV decals (for the "7"), D&H patch decals (GP39-specific, but I think they can work just fine for what I want to use them for).  Also rooted through my stock and pulled out a snow plow, the decoder, the wiring harness, and the MU hoses.

The end result will be something very close to this: RailPictures.Net Photo: D&H 7324 Delaware & Hudson EMD GP38-2 at Enola, Pennsylvania by George W. Hamlin

Stay tuned for some progress and pictures.]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9617 Sun, 31 Jul 2022 00:03:57 +0000 tompm]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9617
At first I suspected track issues. Track was cleaned and still having problems. Second GP40-2 runs fine.

Inspected loco and found bottom of gear boxes wet with lubricate. Cleaned this up. Cleaned wheels. Still having issues.

Removed shell. Found "wet" lubricate in many places. I could see the gears they appear to be very wet.

I need suggestions as to what to do next.]]>
At first I suspected track issues. Track was cleaned and still having problems. Second GP40-2 runs fine.

Inspected loco and found bottom of gear boxes wet with lubricate. Cleaned this up. Cleaned wheels. Still having issues.

Removed shell. Found "wet" lubricate in many places. I could see the gears they appear to be very wet.

I need suggestions as to what to do next.]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9411 Sat, 09 Oct 2021 12:49:53 +0000 Espee]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9411
Cannot believe I joined this forum years ago & this is my first post. Well here goes.

I have a athearn genesis sd45-2 in pan am livery & its factory fitted with tsunami sound. It has a small packet of ditch lights pre wired & I would like to know how they fit. I purchased the model second hand & I cannot seem to see anything in the paperwork that covers fitting the ditch lights & I wondered if it was missing the instructions that covered it.
I've been out of the hobby for a long time & so I'm a bit rusty.

Thanks 

Si]]>
Cannot believe I joined this forum years ago & this is my first post. Well here goes.

I have a athearn genesis sd45-2 in pan am livery & its factory fitted with tsunami sound. It has a small packet of ditch lights pre wired & I would like to know how they fit. I purchased the model second hand & I cannot seem to see anything in the paperwork that covers fitting the ditch lights & I wondered if it was missing the instructions that covered it.
I've been out of the hobby for a long time & so I'm a bit rusty.

Thanks 

Si]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9345 Sun, 09 May 2021 17:37:36 +0000 Wheeltapper]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9345 I have recently bought a https://www.walthers.com/emd-gp9-phase-2-w-chopped-nose-standard-dc-norfolk-southern-2000-black-white
I want to add ditch lights to the circuit board and have bought these:
https://rapidotrains.com/products/ho-scale/rapido-bits-ho-diesel/rapido-bits-ho-operating-ho-scale-deck-mounted-ditch-lights
Can anyone please provide some guidance?]]> I have recently bought a https://www.walthers.com/emd-gp9-phase-2-w-chopped-nose-standard-dc-norfolk-southern-2000-black-white
I want to add ditch lights to the circuit board and have bought these:
https://rapidotrains.com/products/ho-scale/rapido-bits-ho-diesel/rapido-bits-ho-operating-ho-scale-deck-mounted-ditch-lights
Can anyone please provide some guidance?]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9097 Tue, 24 Mar 2020 19:27:59 +0000 FiatFan]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9097
Any information, suggestions, and/or guidance will be greatly appreciated.

Tom]]>
Any information, suggestions, and/or guidance will be greatly appreciated.

Tom]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9089 Mon, 02 Mar 2020 15:46:03 +0000 Graffen]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=9089 I used 10 mm thick MDF.
It's 18" x 6.5" in size, which was the minimum I wanted.

I drew the plan and then drilled all the holes for the LEDs and push buttons.


I counter drilled the holes from the backside to make it possible to add the LED and the nuts for the push buttons.


I primed it with cellulose first and then black Badger Stynylrez primer.


I then airbrush painted white where the track lines were going to be.


I masked the lines with 1/16" automotive masking tape. I painted over the tape with white to minimize the risk of bleeding.


The panel was then painted with dark green acrylic paint. Around the tracks I shaded with black.


This is how it looked when I removed the masking tape.


I added texts with Microscale decals.


The panel is clearcoated with Alclad matte.

Now it's the fun part; installing all the electrical bits.

I use the panel control system from MGP Here in Sweden, a very competent system with its own programming app and uses Loconet for communication.]]> I used 10 mm thick MDF.
It's 18" x 6.5" in size, which was the minimum I wanted.

I drew the plan and then drilled all the holes for the LEDs and push buttons.


I counter drilled the holes from the backside to make it possible to add the LED and the nuts for the push buttons.


I primed it with cellulose first and then black Badger Stynylrez primer.


I then airbrush painted white where the track lines were going to be.


I masked the lines with 1/16" automotive masking tape. I painted over the tape with white to minimize the risk of bleeding.


The panel was then painted with dark green acrylic paint. Around the tracks I shaded with black.


This is how it looked when I removed the masking tape.


I added texts with Microscale decals.


The panel is clearcoated with Alclad matte.

Now it's the fun part; installing all the electrical bits.

I use the panel control system from MGP Here in Sweden, a very competent system with its own programming app and uses Loconet for communication.]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8951 Mon, 20 May 2019 18:38:30 +0000 nachoman]]> https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=8951