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+--- Thread: Charlie b's layout (/showthread.php?tid=2463)
Re: Charlie b's layout - Charlie B - 04-23-2012
I've seen your "slow work" Those cars for your new year challange are a fine example of your attention to details.
I really am in the plunking down stage of the buildings....I do try to make them look good, but they will be better. I think it is fun to take the buildings every kid has built and refine them and make something useful from them. Some of the buildings I have I built in the 60's so they are almost as old as the era I am trying to represent.
Charlie
Re: Charlie b's layout - Charlie B - 06-06-2012
Hello Big Blue.
I haven't had much interesting to report so I have been lax on updates.
The Wilderson division is in serious need of switch controls and Mr. Ralph posted a nifty little device that I really liked, except....I'm cheaper than Ralph. I didn't want the expense of a slide bolt and a hook for each switch so my brain has been hitting a wall.
Until last night..It come to me like one of those light bulbs in the cartoons.
One thing I wanted was a lever type operation, and a way to make the default position for track to be aligned for the main.
I knew I would need a bell crank to do this, so I made them out of 1/4 in plywood 3 inches long.
The next step cut 3/8 dowel rod to 6 inch lengths and drilled 3 3/16 inch holes in them, one hole has to be for a cotter pin for the inside of the frame of the layout.
Next step was to use my 18 gauge pin nailer and drive a 1 1/4 in brad into the bell crank. this serves as the pin to move the points
Re: Charlie b's layout - Charlie B - 06-06-2012
I already had slotted holes cut through the table under the switch throw bars so the next step was to align the pin with the hole in the switch throw and screw the bell crank to the bottom of the table. I put a #8 flat washer on both sides of the bell crank to give a little clearance for the line and the rubber band. I then stretched the rubber band enough that the points were held firm against the normal position stock rail and screwed a 1 inch drywall screw into the bottom of the layout in the right location to hold that tension.
The next step was a 9/16 staple driven loosely into the bottom of the table directly over the place where the dowel rod will come through the fascia. Thread the fishing line through the staple and tie it through the center hole in the dowel rod. (you don't have to worry about the length of the line as long as it is long enough.) Now drill a tight 3/8 in hole through the fascia.( I used a forstner bit). Place a cotter pin through the hole that will serve as stop to keep the dowel from pulling clear through the hole. Wind the dowel clockwise until the points start to move, then unwind a hair until the normal position points are snug against the stock rail. Hold the dowel firmly in this position from the back side and place the lever on the dowel. (I put mine on facing 12 o'clock) Drill from the 4 o'clock position to the 10 o'clock position and insert a short cotter pin to hold it in place. Now if it is set right the switch should go to diverging with the lever approximately 90 degrees, the beauty being you don't have an absolute stop on the lever so you can turn the dowel until the switch points are snug.
I have two switches completed, and parts made to do 50 more. Cost for each switch is less than $.60 for material.
Cheap Charlie...
Re: Charlie b's layout - Ralph - 06-12-2012
Hiya Charlie!
My wife and I were on vacation in Spain since the beginning of the month so I mnissed your recent update on turnout controls. Great engineering and cost saving!
Ralph
Re: Charlie b's layout - Charlie B - 06-12-2012
I just finished number 12 today. I have run into some problems with the framing in the way on a couple that have required some off set cuts in the bellcranks but other that that they are working out fine. I will report on them a little more before long. More to install tonight.
I have some that are the twin coil switch machines that I have to use and I ordered parts to build current blocking capicator discharge power supplys so they don't burn out.
Charlie
Re: Charlie b's layout - Tyson Rayles - 06-12-2012
Nice job with the bell cranks, you have way more skill at that sort of thing than I do!
Re: Charlie b's layout - teejay - 06-12-2012
Nifty idea and right in time for my layout . I just took all the switch machines off my Peco turnouts that aren't in place yet and was looking for an alternative . Thanks for the inspiration , I'll give this some serious thought .
Terry
Re: Charlie b's layout - Charlie B - 06-14-2012
Hi group.
I used some old Atlas turn outs that I had and I was going to change them out, but I found out the new throw bars are available from Atlas so I thought I would fix the older ones so the trains track better through them. First I carefully cut the tops of the rivets that hold the points to the throw bar. I used a Dremmel cutting wheel and was careful to only hit the rivet head. I used the cutting edge perpendicular to the rivet head. The wheel actually spins the rivet so the head cuts evenly
Next I drilled a hole through the base board between the throw bar ties and cut it out square using a sharp 1/4 inch wood chisel. (the points can be carefully moved out of the way for this step, move to one side, then to the other)
I then took a file and notched the stock rails so the points would set back in the rail when they are closed. This keeps the wheels from picking the points. The new Atlas turnouts are made this way so it isn't my idea. Then I used one of the new throw bars that the point rivet holes snap into.
Re: Charlie b's layout - Charlie B - 07-03-2012
Time for another little update and a few pictures. I have almost 80 percent of my switch throws installed, and for the ones that don't have removable switch machines I made a capacitor discharge power supply so the machines can't burn out. They also seem to be more reliable when they are thrown. Now I can touch up the ballast where the twin coil machines were removed. The pictures are just random images.
Charlie
Re: Charlie b's layout - sailormatlac - 07-03-2012
So simple! I like the idea, though I suspect rubber band will have to be replaced when drying up. One could use spring to this purpose.
Matt
Re: Charlie b's layout - Charlie B - 07-03-2012
The bands are easy to replace and adjust, I tried springs but it was too time consuming to make the ones I needed. I can chage a band about as quick as I can find one. Granted, not the best soluton, but heck, I don't have anything better to do. Besides, I always wanted to play with a band.
Charlie
Re: Charlie b's layout - Ralph - 07-03-2012
Charlie, nice to see you posting about your layout again. I am so envious of those long stretches of track!
Ralph
Re: Charlie b's layout - doctorwayne - 07-04-2012
It looks great in person, too, Ralph.
However, after a long day of following the real ones, I was almost too pooped to follow that nice long stock train around the layout. It's quite a hike. 
The trains run great and those switch machines worked flawlessly. I'm already looking forward to my next visit in August.Wayne
Re: Charlie b's layout - sailormatlac - 07-04-2012
Charlie B Wrote:The bands are easy to replace and adjust, I tried springs but it was too time consuming to make the ones I needed. I can chage a band about as quick as I can find one. Granted, not the best soluton, but heck, I don't have anything better to do. Besides, I always wanted to play with a band.
Charlie
You've got a point there!!! Keep it simple!
Just spotted a "Way of the Warriors" boxcar in your train...
Matt
Re: Charlie b's layout - Charlie B - 07-04-2012
The Wilderson division sees box cars and refers from the EG&E quite often. most contain a top secret lading. The manifest says "guess" .
Customs goes crazy at the border but some guy shows up and that is the end of it.
Charlie