Upgrade or replace Spring-Belt Drives?

[Green_Elite_Cab]

. I don't know what the wheel diameter or wheelbase is on the T motor

Unfortunately, I don't have the scale plans for this locomotive. However, here are the dimensions as measured with a scale ruler-

Wheel Diameter- 36"

"outer" truck wheel base- 6' 9"

"Inner" (drive) truck wheel base- 5' 6"

-- the issue would be to find a matching plastic diesel truck that might somehow be used to replace the brass version, with extensive reworking of the drive train on top of that. Regearing isn't an option if you still have the belt drive. That means the radical solution of the bull ant drive. But consider this: say you spend $200+ to get a workable loco by adding the bull ants. What would be the current price of a new T motor from Overland, assuming anything like that ever comes in again? Or what would be the price of a more recent Overland?

I don't think there is a diesel truck out there compatible with this engine. Even if there was, it would be almost as much of a nightmare to intall as the Bull Ant method.

I can see your point though. I didn't spend anywhere near the full price of this locomotive, but i could certainly get most of the cost of a nicer model by selling this one and throwing the money I would have spent on bull ants into the mix. Still, I think the "next level" of New York Central electrics tends to go for WAY over my budget for one locomotive. This T3 was a target of opportunity.

You may wish to check out NWSL's Stanton Drive (You'll need to scroll down 5 or 6 pages). Supposedly it can be fitted with different size wheels, and may be convertible to using your existing drivers. This won't likely save anything cost-wise over the Bull Ant drives, but you may be able to power all four driver sets. With the space in the body shell no longer needed for the motor, you could probably pack enough lead in there to pull a fully-modelled Century. If you need more info, contact Dave: he may be able to offer other alternatives, too.

Wayne

I've had some experience with the Stanton drives for my MU cars. I have on installed in my Silverliner III, and pending better alternatives, I'll probably order a few for my other MU cars. These drives are kinda slow for my taste, though my 33" wheeled Silverliner can hit its 75 MPH timetable allowable speed when run by itself, so it should be adequate.

That said, the main limitation here is the wheel base. The only convenient place to install the Stanton drives would be in the center truck locations (this area has both the vertical clearance and an area to use the Stanton drive's mounting lugs to install it). However, the smallest wheel base offers is 6' 6", and that is "as small as they can go with this design".

The outer trucks have a compatible wheel base, but now the problem would be mounting them, there is simply no good way to install them out there.


But.... What about a sprocket and chain?

I've seen sprockets and chains in larger engines, but it looks like micro mark sells some very small sprocket and chain pieces. I'd have to break down the model and measure it, but it looks like I may have a winner. The sprockets themselves are only a few bucks, and a 1' length of chain is $18.

Would their be any drawbacks to this design? I placed the model on some 18" curves, and the truck swivel was minimal, I imagine the chain could still function with this minor twisting.

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