Fast Tracks Points Tip
#4
P5se Camelback Wrote:File only only one direction - pushing away from you - that's the only way the file cuts material anyway. Lift the file and bring it back and then push away against the rail again, but not at 60 mph ... 15 or 20 mph generates less heat. Hopefully that will help your "curling" problem (rail ... not stones on ice.) Icon_lol Take your time ... this is not a race! Icon_lol

Hi biL! Thanks for the feedback. My work is pretty much as you describe. I think my problem is I am filing with a bias toward the point end of the rail; the result is that it gets *too* thin, and perhaps there is then some heat build up. Imagine pulling a ribbon along the edge of a scissors - it's kind of like that.

I'm not certain why the angled cut has given me better luck - it may be as simple as giving me a "wear line" for a visual reference. I've believe I've also started filing flatter, taking some of that excessive work off the thinnest portion of the rail.

P5se Camelback Wrote:I've been hand laying track for a bunch of years ... i just file the rails and solder them as I get there, making sure I have a good fit between rails to be soldered. I hold the rail being filed in a jeweler's hand vise ... seems to work O.K. for me. On the other hand, I'd be at a loss if you were to ask, "What number is that frog!" I couldn't tell you. It is what it needs to be to get to where it is going in the smoothest, most gentle turn possible in that location. Could be #5.5 ... could be #8.2 ... I don't know.

I may get there! I recently built two 19 degree crossings using only a template and dress pins to create a "fixture" for the many, many points required (see <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.the-gauge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=2574&start=60">viewtopic.php?f=46&t=2574&start=60</a><!-- l -->). Lots of gauge work like you described and solder took care of the rest (well, ok, some jewelers file work after the fact - but I'm learning!)

Matt
Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio
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