01-11-2009, 01:23 AM
First off, I've got a few of those rusty axles that Russ mentioned and he's absolutely right, they can and will affect performance. (Whaddya mean, rust doesn't act like graphite?)
Next, a comment on axle length. If you can afford it, a simple caliper (doesn't even have to have a digital or analog readout) that can open and close and be held firm by a screw or knob at a fixed length, is a great thing to have for determining the axle length. Measure them when you buy the kit and write the dimension on the box lid, instructions, wherever. Then on the next trip to the LHS or IHS (Internet Hobby Shop...I'm sure I'm not the first to use this abbreviation but I ain't seen it noplace else yit) you'll know what size to order, as long as you know the length of the replacement wheelset's axle, of course.
Here's a thought...doesn't the NMRA set standards for our hobby? Then how 'bout axle lengths for pointy axles as well as rollerbearing replacements. Sure would make it easier in the long run, right? Nah, nevermind, makes too much sense (and honestly isn't possible to be completely backwards compatible, I'd think).
Wayne - seems John Allen didn't like free-rolling rolling stock for similar reasons to what you've mentioned. I don't know if you've done this...betting you have...but anyway, the Kadee instructions actually give hints and tips for smooth operation. I had been using the couplers (started as a dumb teenager) for some time before I actually read them. I usually just tossed them after opening the package and looking around on any horizontal surface for those danged springs that fell out and sprung someplace no matter how carefully I tried to catch them.
What has helped me so far has been filing the knuckle face to remove that parting line, as well as filing the top and bottom of the shank and area around the hole, and the coupler box to remove any flash. Sounds basic and it is, but I hadn't been that thorough in those early days and after going back and reworking some of my first kadee conversions I was delighted to find them operating so nicely as a result.
Placing the brass spring in either on top or beneath the coupler can also have an effect. I have not used the graphite "grease 'em" but I hear it helps. I haven't had that many problems so I never purchased any but mebbe I'll get some next time I see any. I DO have problems with runaway rolling stock when I try to couple anything with a plastic coupler (McHenry, etc. take your pick). Two Kadees of similar size, no problem. The 'scale' knuckle couplers from Kadee seem troublesome as well so I've avoided them although I hear from folks who have converted their entire fleet that they work fine with each other.
Galen
Next, a comment on axle length. If you can afford it, a simple caliper (doesn't even have to have a digital or analog readout) that can open and close and be held firm by a screw or knob at a fixed length, is a great thing to have for determining the axle length. Measure them when you buy the kit and write the dimension on the box lid, instructions, wherever. Then on the next trip to the LHS or IHS (Internet Hobby Shop...I'm sure I'm not the first to use this abbreviation but I ain't seen it noplace else yit) you'll know what size to order, as long as you know the length of the replacement wheelset's axle, of course.
Here's a thought...doesn't the NMRA set standards for our hobby? Then how 'bout axle lengths for pointy axles as well as rollerbearing replacements. Sure would make it easier in the long run, right? Nah, nevermind, makes too much sense (and honestly isn't possible to be completely backwards compatible, I'd think).
Wayne - seems John Allen didn't like free-rolling rolling stock for similar reasons to what you've mentioned. I don't know if you've done this...betting you have...but anyway, the Kadee instructions actually give hints and tips for smooth operation. I had been using the couplers (started as a dumb teenager) for some time before I actually read them. I usually just tossed them after opening the package and looking around on any horizontal surface for those danged springs that fell out and sprung someplace no matter how carefully I tried to catch them.
What has helped me so far has been filing the knuckle face to remove that parting line, as well as filing the top and bottom of the shank and area around the hole, and the coupler box to remove any flash. Sounds basic and it is, but I hadn't been that thorough in those early days and after going back and reworking some of my first kadee conversions I was delighted to find them operating so nicely as a result.
Placing the brass spring in either on top or beneath the coupler can also have an effect. I have not used the graphite "grease 'em" but I hear it helps. I haven't had that many problems so I never purchased any but mebbe I'll get some next time I see any. I DO have problems with runaway rolling stock when I try to couple anything with a plastic coupler (McHenry, etc. take your pick). Two Kadees of similar size, no problem. The 'scale' knuckle couplers from Kadee seem troublesome as well so I've avoided them although I hear from folks who have converted their entire fleet that they work fine with each other.
Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!