CPR Engine House
#26
Aye Aye Mon Capeetin!!

So where do I start? A bit about the materials. As mentioned I am using card stock more aptly named cereal box for this build. I generally have three thicknesses (what an awkward word?) to use which will more then suit my purposes. I'll also use strip wood for some of the supporting structure, but I will be relying mostly on the card stock.

I have cereal box from a Jumbo sized box of Cheerios. The card board from this box is heavy. Which I will serve as the basis for the walls. The second or medium thickness is the usual thickness of card board found from a say a Quaker Chewy Granola Bars box or in this case some Oreo Cakesters. Misngth, The last and thinnest kind is from commercially available card stock my wife picked up a Micheal's a while back. It's slightly heavier then paper and will be primarily used for the building's siding. 10x posts will be made from the appropriate sized strip wood.

Here are a couple of shots of the "south" wall and the back walls for the engine house. These were cut from the Jumbo Cheerios Box.

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So A few nights ago I made a go of the doors. I initially thought I may have to scrap these and build new ones, however a reassessment of their size has shown I have nothing to worry about. There is about six scale inches on either side of the loco when I did my test fit. Something tells me they made the openings just wide enough to accommodate their engines. Here is some pictures of the work so far.

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The second shot shows the interior trim and bracing. Some one mentioned the tie rod in the plans. That detail as well as the hinges and the bolt details will be added just after I give the doors their first initial very light coats of primer. Then I'll see about adding them and won't attach them until I'm ready to do some final assembly. The doors will be painted oxide red, the hinges and tie rods will be painted black, so I'd like to add them at the end.

I started building one of the door openings and got as far as putting the 10 x posts on the interior side and some siding. The 6" strip around the opening is there to support the 9" trim that will go around the opening to create a finished look. I am shooting for a clean look where there are no exposed siding or wall ends when I finish this Barn Build.

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The siding is cut to a scale 12" wide and then overlapped a little at each joint, probably about a scale 2 - 3 inches. In order to check my consistency from one side of the door to the other, about every four or fifth piece I attached I would grab a small square, and check to see if the bottom of the siding strip lined up with the other side. The occasional adjustment was made to get things back in order, but I mostly did it by eye. I also allowed the siding over hang off the edge. I would wait until the glue dried and then cut it flush from the back side using a very sharp #11 X-acto blade.

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Once I cut the cut the 12" strips from the gray card stock I would roughly cut the length I needed and prepare to glue the siding in place.

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Nothing fancy. A small drop of yellow glue and a tooth pick as an applicator.

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A small amount of glue is placed on the wall just above the last piece of siding...

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...and the new piece is carefully picked up with the tip of my # 11 blade and placed on the wall.

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In a short while the siding is complete for this Door Opening.

Finish off the door I cut a 9" strip from the Cakesters Box and scuff the printed side of the piece lightly with some sandpaper. This removes the shiny coating and helps the piece glue better. I apply a small amount of glue to the 6 inch strips and then cut the individual 9" trim pieces to fit the opening and hide the exposed siding edges.

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Voila! Finished! By this time the glue has dried sufficiently that I can trim the excess siding flush with the edge of the wall.

That's all for tonight.
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