03-05-2011, 02:33 AM
Gus, those commercial blackeners are totally safe on plastic, although they do like the metal parts to be free of grease, oil, and oxidation. After you get the desired degree of blackening, you may need to rinse away any residue with water, as some continue to "work" until all chemical reaction has ceased. Apply lubrication once dry.
For painting locos, both superstructure and running gear, I use either Floquil or Pollyscale paints, mixed to whatever colours I think look appropriate. The surface should be clean, and for siderods, valve gear, etc., free of lubricant. I usually brush-paint the latter initially, then follow-up with some airbrushing. After the paint is dry (but not hardened), I run the mechanism to allow it to remove any paint which may have gotten into places it shouldn't, then follow up with a judiciously-applied lube job using appropriate plastic compatible oil.
Wayne
For painting locos, both superstructure and running gear, I use either Floquil or Pollyscale paints, mixed to whatever colours I think look appropriate. The surface should be clean, and for siderods, valve gear, etc., free of lubricant. I usually brush-paint the latter initially, then follow-up with some airbrushing. After the paint is dry (but not hardened), I run the mechanism to allow it to remove any paint which may have gotten into places it shouldn't, then follow up with a judiciously-applied lube job using appropriate plastic compatible oil.
Wayne