05-20-2011, 08:58 PM
Thanks for the comments and compliments. To try and answer a few of the questions:
The framing was made from 2’ aluminum angle. It definitely won’t warp which is necessary in our climate. I will consider legs (stabilizers) when it is all completed if that day arrives. Right now, I raise and lower the layout and tilt it depending on what I am working on, either topside, or underneath with the wiring. When I do run trains, mostly for test purposes, the layout hangs still; it takes a bump to get is moving but settles back down pretty quick.
I bought two JV Models Trestle kits for N Scale # 1014 Timber Trestle bridge and # 1016 Curved Trestle bridge. The kits provided me with a template for the bents and lots of wood…..all of which had to be cut and stained. I did have to visit my LHS to purchase more wood for the number of trestles I built. After that, the trestles were all freelance and scratch built. Once I had the bent pattern it was just a matter of building them to flow with the gorge; the center bents were all the same length, but those climbing the gorge varied. Each of the curved trestles was different depending on how much foam I cut out. I also used Micro Engineering Bridge Flex Track (code 70) for the track on the bridge. Getting the curve to each trestle was different and the most challenging. Individual cardboard templates were used and then the ME Flex track was curved to match. Fortunately, the ME track was fairly stiff and once it was bent, it didn’t try to slip back to its original straight shape.
One suggestion: obviously there was a lot of gluing involved in the trestles. I used “Canopy” glue and I would recommend it for any wood gluing. It dries clear and can be painted. It tends to get tacky much quicker that the other white glues but is still workable for 20 plus minutes. After that, I tried not to make any adjustments. I have also used it on laser cut wood kits….and it is really easy to use. Another good thing…it is NOT water soluble so you don’t have to worry about it coming apart if you get water on it or touch up some joints with an acrylic paint.
One goal I had was to avoid as much “dead straight” mainline as I could; I just wanted to get as many flowing curves as possible. Using the foam inclines was really really really a snap. Give it great consideration if you are considering any inclines in a future layout or expansion – and they are not expensive. With the inclines it allowed me to make the curves and go up and over tracks. And the degree of incline is accurate; I can’t imagine having to cut blocks of wood to get as accurate an incline as I got with the foam. I am hoping it will end up providing some good scenic possibilities. I used acrylic caulk to attach the inclines to the board; acrylic caulk to attach the roadbed to the inclines, and then 50-50 white glue and water to attach the track to the roadbed.
As I mentioned in the original post, the next priority it to build structures…lots of structures. As they come online, I will keep adding pictures and your comments are greatly appreciated.
One other priority is the building of four sound box cars. I hope to start a new post with pictures as that progresses…..it looks to be a very economical and effective way to add sound to N Scale…especially diesel locomotives.
Dwight77
The framing was made from 2’ aluminum angle. It definitely won’t warp which is necessary in our climate. I will consider legs (stabilizers) when it is all completed if that day arrives. Right now, I raise and lower the layout and tilt it depending on what I am working on, either topside, or underneath with the wiring. When I do run trains, mostly for test purposes, the layout hangs still; it takes a bump to get is moving but settles back down pretty quick.
I bought two JV Models Trestle kits for N Scale # 1014 Timber Trestle bridge and # 1016 Curved Trestle bridge. The kits provided me with a template for the bents and lots of wood…..all of which had to be cut and stained. I did have to visit my LHS to purchase more wood for the number of trestles I built. After that, the trestles were all freelance and scratch built. Once I had the bent pattern it was just a matter of building them to flow with the gorge; the center bents were all the same length, but those climbing the gorge varied. Each of the curved trestles was different depending on how much foam I cut out. I also used Micro Engineering Bridge Flex Track (code 70) for the track on the bridge. Getting the curve to each trestle was different and the most challenging. Individual cardboard templates were used and then the ME Flex track was curved to match. Fortunately, the ME track was fairly stiff and once it was bent, it didn’t try to slip back to its original straight shape.
One suggestion: obviously there was a lot of gluing involved in the trestles. I used “Canopy” glue and I would recommend it for any wood gluing. It dries clear and can be painted. It tends to get tacky much quicker that the other white glues but is still workable for 20 plus minutes. After that, I tried not to make any adjustments. I have also used it on laser cut wood kits….and it is really easy to use. Another good thing…it is NOT water soluble so you don’t have to worry about it coming apart if you get water on it or touch up some joints with an acrylic paint.
One goal I had was to avoid as much “dead straight” mainline as I could; I just wanted to get as many flowing curves as possible. Using the foam inclines was really really really a snap. Give it great consideration if you are considering any inclines in a future layout or expansion – and they are not expensive. With the inclines it allowed me to make the curves and go up and over tracks. And the degree of incline is accurate; I can’t imagine having to cut blocks of wood to get as accurate an incline as I got with the foam. I am hoping it will end up providing some good scenic possibilities. I used acrylic caulk to attach the inclines to the board; acrylic caulk to attach the roadbed to the inclines, and then 50-50 white glue and water to attach the track to the roadbed.
As I mentioned in the original post, the next priority it to build structures…lots of structures. As they come online, I will keep adding pictures and your comments are greatly appreciated.
One other priority is the building of four sound box cars. I hope to start a new post with pictures as that progresses…..it looks to be a very economical and effective way to add sound to N Scale…especially diesel locomotives.
Dwight77