10-28-2011, 01:17 PM
There are several good strategies, and sometimes a mix is best.
First, masking tape: I've found Scotch Magic Tape (i.e. #119) is by far the best. It's thin and sticks well, but not too well. Don't use any sort of paper type masking tape like what's used for auto painting. Practice helps, and certainly it's best for straight lines.
A second issue is airbrush technique: you've got to learn to spray so the paint is almost dry when it hits the model. The less fluid the paint, the less likely it is to bleed under the masking.
A third technique, which I use only when I'm pretty worried, is to spray color A on the model, the base color that most of the model will be. Then mask for the next color. However, before spraying color B, spray another coat of color A over the original color A coat and the masking as well. Any bleed through will be the same color as the base color. However, in most situations, good masking and airbrush technique should help. (An example of where this might be helpful, though, is in elaborate bicentennial type schemes where the color separation is going across hood doors, latches, vents, etc.)
Fourth, use Micro Scale trim film. That's how I would do the PATCO car in the photo: spray on the aluminum paint, then measure and cut the black decal trim film where the black will go.
Fifth, and this would apply to the NJT cab units, look carefully for any commercial decals that might include all the striping already in the set. There are probably dozens of small vendors among whom you might find this stuff. Then you're home free.
Sixth, if that fails, look for a decal set that has similar striping. The NJT scheme looks like the striping pattern is similar to RF&P, GM&O, or maybe SP Daylight. Check those out with photos. If any are really close, buy a set of those (or borrow one maybe), photocopy it, and use the photocopy as a pattern to cut Scotch Magic Tape in the masking pattern that matches the stripes. Use Technique 3 if needed.
In all cases, use Micro Scale fine striping decals for the thin stripes over color separations.
First, masking tape: I've found Scotch Magic Tape (i.e. #119) is by far the best. It's thin and sticks well, but not too well. Don't use any sort of paper type masking tape like what's used for auto painting. Practice helps, and certainly it's best for straight lines.
A second issue is airbrush technique: you've got to learn to spray so the paint is almost dry when it hits the model. The less fluid the paint, the less likely it is to bleed under the masking.
A third technique, which I use only when I'm pretty worried, is to spray color A on the model, the base color that most of the model will be. Then mask for the next color. However, before spraying color B, spray another coat of color A over the original color A coat and the masking as well. Any bleed through will be the same color as the base color. However, in most situations, good masking and airbrush technique should help. (An example of where this might be helpful, though, is in elaborate bicentennial type schemes where the color separation is going across hood doors, latches, vents, etc.)
Fourth, use Micro Scale trim film. That's how I would do the PATCO car in the photo: spray on the aluminum paint, then measure and cut the black decal trim film where the black will go.
Fifth, and this would apply to the NJT cab units, look carefully for any commercial decals that might include all the striping already in the set. There are probably dozens of small vendors among whom you might find this stuff. Then you're home free.
Sixth, if that fails, look for a decal set that has similar striping. The NJT scheme looks like the striping pattern is similar to RF&P, GM&O, or maybe SP Daylight. Check those out with photos. If any are really close, buy a set of those (or borrow one maybe), photocopy it, and use the photocopy as a pattern to cut Scotch Magic Tape in the masking pattern that matches the stripes. Use Technique 3 if needed.
In all cases, use Micro Scale fine striping decals for the thin stripes over color separations.