Making good Masking

[doctorwayne]

Normally, this would be how I would do it, though there is complication here. The "Alclad Chrome" paint requires that it is applied to a absolutely gloss finish. Apparently this can be accomplished through Gloss Black base coat.

The problem is that if I did paint the Alclad Stainless steel (which is a larger metal particle in the paint), it would no longer be super glossy. As a result, the Chrome would be just as shiny as the Stainless steel, just a different shade. This is not ideal. Essentially, the Chrome paint has to be on a gloss black base coat, and there can be nothing between it, otherwise the mirror reflective effect goes away.
I may just have to bite the bullet and try and put masking tape over the fluted sides, and then once everything else is painted, put the chrome on last. I'm not sure how well the tape will burnish into the fluting, but in theory, if I spray the Stainless Steel properly, it will dry before it runs. This Alclad Paint is very dilute, and even if a little did get through by capillary action, It may not be a major concern. Still, I try to do good work.

You've sorta lost me here: the colour for the non-fluted area is applied first to the entire car. When cured, all of the car that is to remain this colour or to later be painted black is masked-off. Next, apply the paint(s) as required to the fluted areas - if it requires a black or glossy coat first, do so, then apply the Alclad. This could all be done with the initial masking. When that paint has cured, remove the tape as necessary and re-mask to paint the black area around the front end.


If you have to mask over the fluting, burnish the tape as it's applied - while it's not under tension. Press it down into each depression in the fluting as you come to it, then apply and burnish each subsequent flute as you reach it. Probably the main cause of bleed-under at irregular surfaces is the fact that the tape is first stretched over its entire length, then worked down and burnished into the depressions. Each subsequent one that you burnish puts more stress on the strip of tape, so, by the time you've finished taping and burnishing, the tape on the areas done earlier is already returning to its original stretched (and no-longer-burnished) state.

When masking over raised or depressed details, the tape should be applied and burnished as you work your way along the carbody, not after the strip of tape is in place. To do this and still maintain a straight line, I first apply a strip of tape over the area which is to be painted. Use calipers or dividers to determine where the colour separation will be in relation to a known straight line: for instance, the eave line of the roof or the bottom edge of the carbody. Cut a strip of tape exactly the same width as that area, then apply it without any burnishing, as it's merely a reference line to keep the actual masking tape straight. Apply the tape for masking, burnishing over details as you follow along the guide strip, then remove and discard the guide tape. As mentioned, cut thin strips where you need to curve the tape, then fill in with wider strips or individual pieces where necessary.

I'm not entirely sure I follow (curses i'm a visual person), but hypothetically, if I were to mask the fluted edge of the PATCO car, i would use the rain gutter as a guide and cut a thin strip to be the guide strip of paint, correct?

Not necessary at all if you paint in the order as outlined in the first part of my reply here.

For your E-units, I'd make a guide as outlined above before applying any paint. The crucial area is at the colour separation between the lower green area and the grey/silver band at the nose. First, use your dividers to determine the full height of the lower green band and cut a strip of tape to that width, then apply it to your model - it doesn't need to be the full length of the body at this point, as you're merely determining the shape of the curve, but it should extend a little past the mid-point of the nose, where the band ends in a point. Make a vertical pencil mark at the point on the nose, and another pencil mark where the curve begins, which appears to be at the leading edge of the small walkway on the cab's side. Remove the tape and, using a straightedge, place it back on the sheet of glass. Use a pen or pencil to trace your estimation of the curve onto the tape, then cut along the line and re-apply the tape - you may hit it accurately on you first try or you may need several attempts. When you're satisfied with its appearance, apply the tape to a piece of paper (or thin styrene) and cut the paper/styrene following the curved edge of the tape. Use this pattern to prepare two strips of tape for each loco, flipping the pattern to do the opposite side of the loco.

I think I understand that. Essentially, the first tape would be used to create a template to cut additional strips to match. Wouldn't it be possible then, to make the template already match the full width of the stripe, rather than just the edges?

Not exactly: The tape you're cutting to follow the curve is merely a guide for the lower edge of the tape needed to mask the light-coloured band. Once you have the correct curve (of the front end of the lower green area), you can go ahead and paint the entire unit with the light colour of the band. When that paint is fully cured, re-apply the guide tapes, then apply a thin strip of tape above the guide tape - this will demarcate (and cover) the lower edge of the light coloured paint which will comprise the light-coloured band. Use the dividers to mark a line parallel to this at a distance equal to the width of the light-coloured band, then use another thin strip of tape to mark (and cover) what will be the top edge of that band, then fill in the space between the two narrow strips with strips or bits of tape as required. The curved piece of tape at the bottom of the carbody (covering what will be the lower green area) is removed and discarded.

You can do the stripes with decals, but if the correct colour isn't available, you could also paint them, using the methods outlined.

This is the part that concerns me. The red pin-striping would need to curve with the paint. Can a straight decal stripe conform to these lines? It can definitely see how this method could be used to paint the pinstripe, but that seems difficult to maintain what is roughly a scale 2" or 2 1/2 ".

You've already made a template/mask which follows the upper edge of the lower green area - simply re-apply it (or a fresh version of the same), then apply a strip of tape 2" or 2 1/2" wide, then a strip of suitable width to cover the majority of the light coloured band. Above that, apply another 2" or 2 1/2" strip of tape and then tape, in narrow strips or wide, as necessary, to cover all of the other areas that are to remain green. Remove both 2"/2 1/2" strips and apply your red paint on the exposed stripe areas.
If you use decals, straight stripes can be made to conform to curves - take your time and concentrate on the long (upper) edges of the stripe - the lower edge will pucker and may lift slightly in some spots, but don't worry about it. When it's in place to your satisfaction, carefully apply decal setting solution, which should make any puckered or lifted areas snuggle down. Touch-up with paint or small bits of decal stripe where necessary.

I've seen this "Pactra" striping material in hobby shops, have you had expirience with it? It comes on a roll and can be applied around complex curves. One side is adhesive. I tried it once on a model for a friend when I ran out of regular decal stripe, but it did appear to come up so i grow concerned about how good it is. Then again, I may not have applied it properly since I was in a rush. Perhaps it could be used as pinstripe masking....

I haven't used it, but with the methods outlined above, you won't need it.

Lately I've been using a color cup, and I usually wash it out with paint thinner between paints, and then scrub it with acetone and a pipe cleaner when i'm done painting for the day.

My concern is that paint is stuck in the body of the airbrush somewhere in between where the paint gets sucked into the brush, and the internal parts of the air brush. I'm pretty good about cleaning the tips, needle, and other easily accessible parts with brushes, steel wire (for the small holes), and Acetone.

I use a Crescendo 175.

The construction of your airbrush looks quite similar to my Paasche VL. To clean it, regardless of what type of paint I've been spraying, I run a colour cup-ful of lacquer thinner through it, then disassemble it completely. The three parts comprising the tip go into some clean lacquer thinner in the cup and the needle is wiped with a rag dampened with thinner. To clean the body of the airbrush, dip a pipe cleaner in lacquer thinner, then poke it completely through the needle passageway, then through that of the paint supply. It's difficult to tell from the drawing, but if Part 41-016 is hollow, run the pipe cleaner through there, too.

Wayne