Fluesheet's Shelf Layout

[Fluesheet]

I recently made a push to get the shelf layout off of it's temporary workbench in the middle of the basement and back to it's home on it's shelf.

The work entailed:
- Ballasting all of the remaining trackwork except Sedam Lumber and Tool (I may use a different treatment here - concrete)
- Touch up of painted rail, ties and tie plates
- Added cinder pile car stop (this was just the right size to derail cars effectively, but not stop them! It has since grown larger)



I used Woodland Scenics Scenic Cement for the first time during this ballasting phase. Comparisons:
- To diluted white glue:

• Easier to prepare (ready to go - the viscosity is correct)
  More expensive.
  Has a more flexible bond than white glue; this may make it more rugged over the long haul, especially if the layout is moved a lot
  Seems to wick about the same as diluted white glue with a drop of dish detergent in it

- To Acrylic Floor wax

• Bond is not as solid (Acrylic floor wax is the big man on campus as far as outright holding power is concerned). However, the bond is more flexible.
  Leaves no waxy spots on plastic ties

- To Matte Medium

• Leaves no residue
  Requires no dilution
  Same bonding notes as above

After I mounted the layout on the brackets, I decided to create some hand holds that I'd been contemplating for a while. As it stands, the layout is somewhat difficult to move around - it's clumsy. The fascia is strong enough to lift with, but it's not a comfortable way to carry it and since it's so deep, I can't get a thumb up on the Homasote surface, which compromises control. On the backside, the Homasote extends about 1/2" beyond the plywood base - this isn't bad, but is also makes a somewhat clumsy hold. Plus it's only a matter of time before the cantilevered Homasote fails.

For the front, I started by gluing a 1x3 (approximately) to the back side of the fascia. This also bears directly against the bottom of the plywood sub roadbed, so the lift is not transmitted through the fascia.

I started by finding and marking the center of balance of the layout, then drilled two 1" holes with a spade bit 4 1/2" apart (centered on the balance mark) and about 7/8" from the base of the fascia. This leaves the bottom of the "girder" formed by the fascia (and 1x3) intact, creates a comfortable-sized hole for my hand and leaves enough finger room on the inside for a comfortable lift. The two holes were connected with a sabre saw. Impressively, very little of ballast was shaken off - and the layout was shaking like a paint mixer! The interior of the hole was later finished off with a file and sandpaper:



Next I cut the notch on the backside. This was straightforward work with a utility knife:



The result is a nicely balanced shelf that is MUCH easier to mount and dismount from the wall. I'm very happy with the result.



End result:



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The entire gallery of the build is here:
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Next, troubleshooting some unexpected issues with the turnouts.