11-23-2009, 09:32 AM
A 40watt iron is plenty big enough for soldering handrails. First, clean the tip, with a file if necessary, then heat it up and re-tin it. Clean the wire which your going to use for the handrail - .015" is good for HO or .010" or smaller for N. Grasp one end of the wire with pliers, then draw the wire through a folded piece of fine sandpaper - the wet/dry type, 400 grit or finer, works well. Make two or three passes, then flip the wire end-for-end and repeat. This ensures that the entire wire has been cleaned, so you won't have to keep track of which end is the clean end. 
Using an otherwise spent X-Acto #11 blade (I save them after several sharpenings, as they're useful as scrapers, glue or oil applicators, and, in this case, as wire cutters), and working on a sheet of glass or other hard, smooth surface, snick off the lengths you need: simply press down, using the heel of the blade, remembering to hold onto the piece being cut off, as it will tend to fly away. The handrail and the end stanchion (support post) can be a single unit, using pliers to form a 90 degree bend. Lay out this piece atop the drawing of the handrail, which you've taped to the balsa, as outlined in the link, then fasten it in place using pins. Cut the remaining supports, and using a small machinist's square, put them in position and secure with pins. Butt the top ends against the handrail, then, using the tip of an old X-Acto blade, apply a very small dab of resin soldering flux to each joint.
Next, wet some facial tissue or a paper towel, then rip it into small sections, wad them up and place them tightly over the main handrail, one piece between each stanchion. This will prevent heat from transferring along the handrail, allowing you to solder each stanchion in place without un-soldering your previously done work. For fine work such as this, I find it best to apply a very minute amount of solder directly to the hot iron, then touch just the tip to the joint. Using small diameter resin-core solder, the solder will transfer readily to the cleaned and fluxed joints.
You can make an even stronger handrail by using suitably-sized brass bar for the posts - drill holes through the top of the bars and thread them onto the main handrail, soldering them in place as outlined above. Brass bar stock and soft brass wire, in various sizes, is available from Detail Associates
For either type of handrail, drill appropriately-sized holes in your plastic loco, and secure the handrails using ca.
Wayne
Using an otherwise spent X-Acto #11 blade (I save them after several sharpenings, as they're useful as scrapers, glue or oil applicators, and, in this case, as wire cutters), and working on a sheet of glass or other hard, smooth surface, snick off the lengths you need: simply press down, using the heel of the blade, remembering to hold onto the piece being cut off, as it will tend to fly away. The handrail and the end stanchion (support post) can be a single unit, using pliers to form a 90 degree bend. Lay out this piece atop the drawing of the handrail, which you've taped to the balsa, as outlined in the link, then fasten it in place using pins. Cut the remaining supports, and using a small machinist's square, put them in position and secure with pins. Butt the top ends against the handrail, then, using the tip of an old X-Acto blade, apply a very small dab of resin soldering flux to each joint.
Next, wet some facial tissue or a paper towel, then rip it into small sections, wad them up and place them tightly over the main handrail, one piece between each stanchion. This will prevent heat from transferring along the handrail, allowing you to solder each stanchion in place without un-soldering your previously done work. For fine work such as this, I find it best to apply a very minute amount of solder directly to the hot iron, then touch just the tip to the joint. Using small diameter resin-core solder, the solder will transfer readily to the cleaned and fluxed joints.
You can make an even stronger handrail by using suitably-sized brass bar for the posts - drill holes through the top of the bars and thread them onto the main handrail, soldering them in place as outlined above. Brass bar stock and soft brass wire, in various sizes, is available from Detail Associates
For either type of handrail, drill appropriately-sized holes in your plastic loco, and secure the handrails using ca.
Wayne