01-22-2010, 05:58 PM
I've never used the A-Line re-powering kits, but I've re-powered dozens of locos. Most were fixed in place using silicone sealant, simply pressing the motor into place. I usually powered the loco immediately after putting the motor in place, just to see if there were any problems - of course, the torque of the motor will cause it to move, but it's usually easy to get it back into position.
Did you "seat" the brushes before installing the motor? NWSL suggests attaching power leads to the motor, then running it at medium speed with no load, lightly tapping the brush-end of the motor case using the handle of a small screwdriver. You can tell by the sound when the brushes are properly positioned, as it will be quieter - if it gets noisier, keep tapping until it quiets down.
If you can disconnect the driveshafts from the motor, you should be able to perform this operation with the motor in place: while it may improve the running characteristics of the motor, including making it run quieter, it's not likely to reduce the vibrations.
I almost always eliminate the flywheels when doing remotoring jobs - many of them are not properly balanced anyway, causing more harm than good, and most are too small to be of much benefit.
While some of the problem may be caused by the solid motor mounting, I'd guess that the majority is due to the flywheels. I'd suggest either eliminating them completely, or at least replacing them with ones that are properly balanced, such as those from Timewell.
Wayne
Did you "seat" the brushes before installing the motor? NWSL suggests attaching power leads to the motor, then running it at medium speed with no load, lightly tapping the brush-end of the motor case using the handle of a small screwdriver. You can tell by the sound when the brushes are properly positioned, as it will be quieter - if it gets noisier, keep tapping until it quiets down.
If you can disconnect the driveshafts from the motor, you should be able to perform this operation with the motor in place: while it may improve the running characteristics of the motor, including making it run quieter, it's not likely to reduce the vibrations.
I almost always eliminate the flywheels when doing remotoring jobs - many of them are not properly balanced anyway, causing more harm than good, and most are too small to be of much benefit.
While some of the problem may be caused by the solid motor mounting, I'd guess that the majority is due to the flywheels. I'd suggest either eliminating them completely, or at least replacing them with ones that are properly balanced, such as those from Timewell.
Wayne