01-12-2012, 03:02 PM
Koos, this is one of the two engines I converted. The old Athearn motor is in the front. You see it is a 1:1 replacement
![[Image: IMG_1136.jpg?t=1326400941]](http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae149/faraway52/Misc-1/IMG_1136.jpg?t=1326400941)
The new motor is mounted with the Kato screws into the original Atheran holes
![[Image: IMG_1137.jpg?t=1326400925]](http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae149/faraway52/Misc-1/IMG_1137.jpg?t=1326400925)
The black motor mounts are very soft/flexible plastic (like rubber). They need to be attached to something like the PCB to keep them aligned.
![[Image: IMG_1138.jpg?t=1326400925]](http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae149/faraway52/Misc-1/IMG_1138.jpg?t=1326400925)
This is my order confirmed today for five sets of motor, bottom screws, top screws and PCB. I plan, as you mentioned, to put them on stock to convert most of the nice but noisy RTR models. It looks like the Kato motor assembly is a 1:1 replacement of the RTR motor assembly.
900040 $1.00 3 Screw 2x7mm, Round Head
900080 $1.00 3 Screw 3x8mm, Flat Head
956010 $35.00 5 Motor with Flywheels and old style Motor Mount
958036 $16.00 5 Circuit Board with White LED Lights
The PCBs are for the lazy boys... But you should get the top screws and make your own PCB and mount it on top of the motor stand to stabilize the soft plastic part. You will need the bottom screws because the Athearn screws will not fit in the Kato motor mounts. Two screws are ok. Be carefully when mounting the motor because the bottom screws shall be used to align the vertical position of the motor. Both drive transmission cams should be perfect horizontal. The noise level will increase if they are not straight aligned.
Just one remark. The Kato PCB can drive the Athearn 1.5 Volt bulbs. But you need to add an additional resistor or dim the outputs with the DCC decoder to at least 40 out of 255 (CV 60 for my Zimo decoders). In one case the front bulbs did not survive. I replaced them with an LED. That is again an 1:1 replacement.
I prefer the Kato motor solution over other quality motors and the A-line sets because they are mechanical a 1:1 replacement with very good vibration isolation and the Kato motor/flywheel assembly is very well balanced in contrast to the A-line unit.
Have fun!
The new motor is mounted with the Kato screws into the original Atheran holes
The black motor mounts are very soft/flexible plastic (like rubber). They need to be attached to something like the PCB to keep them aligned.
This is my order confirmed today for five sets of motor, bottom screws, top screws and PCB. I plan, as you mentioned, to put them on stock to convert most of the nice but noisy RTR models. It looks like the Kato motor assembly is a 1:1 replacement of the RTR motor assembly.
900040 $1.00 3 Screw 2x7mm, Round Head
900080 $1.00 3 Screw 3x8mm, Flat Head
956010 $35.00 5 Motor with Flywheels and old style Motor Mount
958036 $16.00 5 Circuit Board with White LED Lights
The PCBs are for the lazy boys... But you should get the top screws and make your own PCB and mount it on top of the motor stand to stabilize the soft plastic part. You will need the bottom screws because the Athearn screws will not fit in the Kato motor mounts. Two screws are ok. Be carefully when mounting the motor because the bottom screws shall be used to align the vertical position of the motor. Both drive transmission cams should be perfect horizontal. The noise level will increase if they are not straight aligned.
Just one remark. The Kato PCB can drive the Athearn 1.5 Volt bulbs. But you need to add an additional resistor or dim the outputs with the DCC decoder to at least 40 out of 255 (CV 60 for my Zimo decoders). In one case the front bulbs did not survive. I replaced them with an LED. That is again an 1:1 replacement.
I prefer the Kato motor solution over other quality motors and the A-line sets because they are mechanical a 1:1 replacement with very good vibration isolation and the Kato motor/flywheel assembly is very well balanced in contrast to the A-line unit.
Have fun!
Reinhard