04-09-2009, 08:07 PM
Wow! Luke, I must apologize as I've not checked in on this thread in quite a while. Lots of things to comment on so let's get started...
My last layout had a bunch of 4% grades on it. Everybody told me to keep 'em not so steep but I didn't listen as I wanted maximum relief in the space that I had. Not too long after I had my mainline completed, I chopped the layout in half, added another three feet in the middle so that I could reduce all grades to 2%. I should'a listened!
I use most of the same procedures for gluing track as you do BUT, I don't glue my track down. I start with foam, glue cork to that or my WS grades and riser (Elmers is sufficient) and then I nail the track down with the little N scale nails and that seems to be sufficient. My trains will run continuously with no problems usually (unless I have people over and I look away!) Because all I am pushing the nails into is through the ties, into the cork, and foam under that, a nail set is sufficient with light pressure. Be careful not to push the nails in too far as that will warp the ties and bring your rails closer together causing derailments. I just tore that layout up her not too long ago and I was able to salvage all of the flex track that I had not ballasted (which was most of it.) I plan to use it all on the next layout. Make sure you solder your joints for better electrical contact.
Since you seem to be revamping the plan, these comments will be moot however, for learning sake, I noticed in your video, that you had an S curve. Sometimes they can't be avoided but try at all costs as with long passenger cars like the ones you've got, it will be a constant problem area. Shortly after that, just before you entered the tunnel down on the left side, your daylight stalled. It looks to me like you've got a pretty tight radius there and I suspect that's your problem. It looked like there may have been another up towards the back on the right side of the layout. If I recall correctly, the Challenger requires a minimum 12" radius and you mentioned having 11". Again, a cause for the locomotive to stall. I accidently ran my Big Boy around a smaller radius (switch was thrown the wrong way and I wasn't paying attention) and it broke the driveline. Watch out!
Another thing to watch out for if you want smooth running trains is to really concentrate on having smooth grade transitions. I noticed in your videos that those could use some work. It was also evident that they were the cause of uncoupling problems. It doesn't take much to make these little couplers come undone and experience has taught me to keep my transitions smooooooooth!
That building you've got.... yes, paint the inside with SEVERAL coats of flat black and it will really help it from "glowing." Another idea is to put a resistor in line to cut down the brightness.
Lastly, in regards to your tunnel through the foam, I've used that method in the past (the mountain with a lift off top). May I suggest another method for you to look into. Make a newspaper mountain and then cover it with Plaster cloth. When the plaster cloth dries, remove the newspaper for a nice shell that you can reach inside of. It also saves on foam.
Well, I could elaborate for pages but I'll save you that agony. If you'd like pictoral examples of anything, let me know and I'll see what I can dig up.
My last layout had a bunch of 4% grades on it. Everybody told me to keep 'em not so steep but I didn't listen as I wanted maximum relief in the space that I had. Not too long after I had my mainline completed, I chopped the layout in half, added another three feet in the middle so that I could reduce all grades to 2%. I should'a listened!
I use most of the same procedures for gluing track as you do BUT, I don't glue my track down. I start with foam, glue cork to that or my WS grades and riser (Elmers is sufficient) and then I nail the track down with the little N scale nails and that seems to be sufficient. My trains will run continuously with no problems usually (unless I have people over and I look away!) Because all I am pushing the nails into is through the ties, into the cork, and foam under that, a nail set is sufficient with light pressure. Be careful not to push the nails in too far as that will warp the ties and bring your rails closer together causing derailments. I just tore that layout up her not too long ago and I was able to salvage all of the flex track that I had not ballasted (which was most of it.) I plan to use it all on the next layout. Make sure you solder your joints for better electrical contact.
Since you seem to be revamping the plan, these comments will be moot however, for learning sake, I noticed in your video, that you had an S curve. Sometimes they can't be avoided but try at all costs as with long passenger cars like the ones you've got, it will be a constant problem area. Shortly after that, just before you entered the tunnel down on the left side, your daylight stalled. It looks to me like you've got a pretty tight radius there and I suspect that's your problem. It looked like there may have been another up towards the back on the right side of the layout. If I recall correctly, the Challenger requires a minimum 12" radius and you mentioned having 11". Again, a cause for the locomotive to stall. I accidently ran my Big Boy around a smaller radius (switch was thrown the wrong way and I wasn't paying attention) and it broke the driveline. Watch out!
Another thing to watch out for if you want smooth running trains is to really concentrate on having smooth grade transitions. I noticed in your videos that those could use some work. It was also evident that they were the cause of uncoupling problems. It doesn't take much to make these little couplers come undone and experience has taught me to keep my transitions smooooooooth!
That building you've got.... yes, paint the inside with SEVERAL coats of flat black and it will really help it from "glowing." Another idea is to put a resistor in line to cut down the brightness.
Lastly, in regards to your tunnel through the foam, I've used that method in the past (the mountain with a lift off top). May I suggest another method for you to look into. Make a newspaper mountain and then cover it with Plaster cloth. When the plaster cloth dries, remove the newspaper for a nice shell that you can reach inside of. It also saves on foam.
Well, I could elaborate for pages but I'll save you that agony. If you'd like pictoral examples of anything, let me know and I'll see what I can dig up.