Homasote implementation
#26
Ed - that will be a fun experiment indeed! Reminds me of the first time I painted a laser cut wood wall. It was a Bar Mills Trackside Jacks/Waterfront Willys kit. I did not prime the walls in any way before painting and sure enough, the acrylic waterbased paints I used made them curl. I quickly painted some water onto the opposite side and hoped for the best. Once the wall dried it straightened itself out.

This leads me to believe the test track warp may have been due to the timing - warping while wet, then the glue dries, bonding it in that position, and it can't settle back into a true, straight form. So wetting the underside may have no effect at all. Curious to see how it comes out.

Then again wood walls have long, porous fibers arranged together by nature in a long orientation. Homasote has short fibers and is dense, with the fibers oriented differently. Hmmm...

Still, was the material you used actual homasote or some generic fiber board? I'm using a ceiling tile type fiber board for my roadbed, laminating it to a 5/8" ply subroadbed/layout base with Elmer's yellow glue, then attaching the track with adhesive latex caulk. It's not very dense and doesn't hold track nails that well which is fine since I'm attaching the track with the caulk. I'm not sure how it'll do once I balast but I'm hoping/risking/guessing it won't cause any trouble.

Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
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