04-17-2011, 07:18 PM
The time has come to begin work on the house for San Bernardino. Actually, I have been working on it a little bit, off and on, in between “difficult breathing” days.
To refresh my memory (and probably yours, too,) I reviewed the parts and plans that I was initially given by the “project manager” at the Scale Rails of Southwest Florida model railroad club.
I next measured and cut all the walls, and laid out the window and door openings. I took them with me to the club to use the drill press in the little shop area there. (Hey, I drilled 1/8” holes all around the opening of the two windows and the door of the garage using a pin vise … there’s no way I was going to do that for nine windows and two doors!)
Using a very small set of end-cutters, I removed the un-needed material and used the Dremel with a fine carbide cutting bit to remove material to "close" to my scribed layout lines …
Next using a “rough cut” jewelers’ file, I removed additional material down to "very close" to the scribed line.
There were a few spots where I was a little careless about where the center of the drill bit was when using the drill press (hey, I haven’t used one of those beasts in over thirty years! I forgot a few things! :oops
The result was “drilling outside the lines” ...
Since I did this more than once (and you may make a similar mistake at sometime, too,) I’ll show you my method of “recovery.”
The procedure is always the same, but the thickness of the repair material depends upon the severity of the miscue.
Here, I used short piece of 0.020” x 0.080” styrene strip and a generous amount of Plastruct Plastic Weld …
Once it’s been filed back to flat it looks pretty good …
… with a little paint, no one will ever know that I had fouled up!
Of course, that has not been the only place where I have lost control (and here is an example of why I don’t use files that really remove “mass quantities of material!” There were a couple places where I got a little overly zealous with the “rough cut jewelers’ file!
The repair was carried out in similar fashion to the other, just bigger pieces …
Step One, solvent on the window opening …
Step Two, solvent on the filler piece (0.010” x 0.080” strip) …
Step Three, wait for the two pieces to soften …
Step Four, Squish with pressure …
(Yes ... this is a separate window ... one that required repairs to TWO sides of the opening.)
After allowing the area to harden overnight, a little trimming and some careful filing with a fine cut jewelers’ file and we’re almost there …
After a few more swipes with the file, the molded windows are a slip-fit ... Just as masonry windows should be.
More to follow … after I crop, resize and upload the next group of photos to Photobucket. :mrgreen:
To refresh my memory (and probably yours, too,) I reviewed the parts and plans that I was initially given by the “project manager” at the Scale Rails of Southwest Florida model railroad club.
I next measured and cut all the walls, and laid out the window and door openings. I took them with me to the club to use the drill press in the little shop area there. (Hey, I drilled 1/8” holes all around the opening of the two windows and the door of the garage using a pin vise … there’s no way I was going to do that for nine windows and two doors!)
Using a very small set of end-cutters, I removed the un-needed material and used the Dremel with a fine carbide cutting bit to remove material to "close" to my scribed layout lines …
Next using a “rough cut” jewelers’ file, I removed additional material down to "very close" to the scribed line.
There were a few spots where I was a little careless about where the center of the drill bit was when using the drill press (hey, I haven’t used one of those beasts in over thirty years! I forgot a few things! :oops
The result was “drilling outside the lines” ...Since I did this more than once (and you may make a similar mistake at sometime, too,) I’ll show you my method of “recovery.”
The procedure is always the same, but the thickness of the repair material depends upon the severity of the miscue.
Here, I used short piece of 0.020” x 0.080” styrene strip and a generous amount of Plastruct Plastic Weld …
Once it’s been filed back to flat it looks pretty good …
… with a little paint, no one will ever know that I had fouled up!
Of course, that has not been the only place where I have lost control (and here is an example of why I don’t use files that really remove “mass quantities of material!” There were a couple places where I got a little overly zealous with the “rough cut jewelers’ file!
The repair was carried out in similar fashion to the other, just bigger pieces …
Step One, solvent on the window opening …
Step Two, solvent on the filler piece (0.010” x 0.080” strip) …
Step Three, wait for the two pieces to soften …
Step Four, Squish with pressure …
(Yes ... this is a separate window ... one that required repairs to TWO sides of the opening.)
After allowing the area to harden overnight, a little trimming and some careful filing with a fine cut jewelers’ file and we’re almost there …
After a few more swipes with the file, the molded windows are a slip-fit ... Just as masonry windows should be.
More to follow … after I crop, resize and upload the next group of photos to Photobucket. :mrgreen:
biL
Lehigh Susquehanna & Western
"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves." ~~Abraham Lincoln
Lehigh Susquehanna & Western
"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves." ~~Abraham Lincoln