04-02-2012, 05:06 PM
You're absolutely right about wanting to make your detailed cars robust enough to be handled (although not mishandled). 
That's one reason why I generally try to make the inside of the car accessible, even when building resin kits. The instructions often tell you to "cement the floor in place", with no consideration that access may be needed to effect repairs at some future date. One of my favourite kits is the X-29 boxcar from Red Caboose, but, unfortunately, it's one for which the floor, sides, and ends are cast as a single piece. The separate roof is to be cemented in place, effectively sealing the car. While it's possible to affix the roof securely and yet still leave it removeable, I found it not worth the trouble. My main concern was with the weights at some time becoming loose, so I made sure to affix them securely. If the solvent-cement bond joining those styrene strips to the car's interior ever fails, so will the ones holding the car together, affording total unrestricted access. 
![[Image: X-29boxcars014.jpg]](http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b399/doctorwayne/X-29%20boxcars/X-29boxcars014.jpg)
Bernhard, if you want a single sheathed boxcar to which you can apply either grab irons or scratchbuilt ladders, the Tichy kit for the USRA single sheathed boxcar is a good choice and one which can be built with its floor removeable. If you check the link, you'll see that there are several versions of this car.
![[Image: Photosofmodelledbrakegear035.jpg]](http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b399/doctorwayne/freight%20cars/Photosofmodelledbrakegear035.jpg)
It's very similar to the Accurail car (which is based on a CNR prototype), but has a straight centre sill and a built-up underframe.
![[Image: Photosofmodelledbrakegear036M-K-TK-stylebrake.jpg]](http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b399/doctorwayne/freight%20cars/Photosofmodelledbrakegear036M-K-TK-stylebrake.jpg)
I've found that the main damage which occurs to most of my re-detailed cars is paint chipping off the grab irons, and that's something which is easily touched-up. You don't need to worry too much about matching the paint, either, as grab irons and steps were safety appliances and were to be repaired as soon as was practical. This often occurred on roads other than the one owning the car, and their shops would use whatever colour was their particular "standard". A bill for the material used, plus a flat rate for the work performed, would be sent to the railroad owning the car, too.
Wayne
That's one reason why I generally try to make the inside of the car accessible, even when building resin kits. The instructions often tell you to "cement the floor in place", with no consideration that access may be needed to effect repairs at some future date. One of my favourite kits is the X-29 boxcar from Red Caboose, but, unfortunately, it's one for which the floor, sides, and ends are cast as a single piece. The separate roof is to be cemented in place, effectively sealing the car. While it's possible to affix the roof securely and yet still leave it removeable, I found it not worth the trouble. My main concern was with the weights at some time becoming loose, so I made sure to affix them securely. If the solvent-cement bond joining those styrene strips to the car's interior ever fails, so will the ones holding the car together, affording total unrestricted access. Bernhard, if you want a single sheathed boxcar to which you can apply either grab irons or scratchbuilt ladders, the Tichy kit for the USRA single sheathed boxcar is a good choice and one which can be built with its floor removeable. If you check the link, you'll see that there are several versions of this car.
It's very similar to the Accurail car (which is based on a CNR prototype), but has a straight centre sill and a built-up underframe.
I've found that the main damage which occurs to most of my re-detailed cars is paint chipping off the grab irons, and that's something which is easily touched-up. You don't need to worry too much about matching the paint, either, as grab irons and steps were safety appliances and were to be repaired as soon as was practical. This often occurred on roads other than the one owning the car, and their shops would use whatever colour was their particular "standard". A bill for the material used, plus a flat rate for the work performed, would be sent to the railroad owning the car, too.
Wayne