Ten-Wheelers for the Grand Valley....
#33
Thanks for your kind words, Tyler. Goldth

Most of the free-standing details, such as the sandbox and the raised cast-on piping was removed with a mill file. I've also been known to use a hacksaw and, on occasion, a ball peen hammer with a cold chisel. Once the bulk of the detail has been removed, more finely-cut files can be brought into play to finish the job.
For the airtanks and other detail below the running boards, I used a hacksaw to remove the bulk of the material, then finished with a rotary cutting bit in a Dremel-like tool. This latter area didn't need to be especially neat, as I had new air tanks and other details to cover most of space, and once it's on the layout, that area is in the shadows. Wink Misngth

However, I did remove the locos' cabs, slicing them off with a hacksaw (I wanted to use the cabs from Bachmann Consolidations to create a "family" look), and that allowed room to operate a hacksaw under the running boards - first cut "in" just beneath the running boards, then the second cut "up" to finish the major removal. If you don't wish to remove your loco's cab, any removal work under the running boards will likely require a cutting bit.

While it's not the best method, the cold chisel can be useful for removing a major portion of bulky details, such as air tanks, but the locomotive must be fully-supported behind where the blows are to be struck - a solid whack on an unsupported area could make a mess of the whole works.

A cut-off disc in your Dremel is useful for removing smaller details, but use the face of the disc, not the edge, and with very light pressure - be sure to wear safety glasses or goggles, as a slip or too much pressure can shatter the disc.

As for casting lead weights, there's some info HERE

Wayne
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