Transition over module gaps (cross posted from tips & tricks

[Engfanuk]

Gidday Steve, we use a jig not only for alignment of the bolts, but also the two outside track centres as the modules are designed to be reversible. Originally the bolts and the holes were a tight fit but even with the use of the jig, not every ones woodworking skills are equal and so now the bolt fit is not crucial (the track butt join measurements are!!!).
At the module track butt joins we use a 1/8” brass screw, about ¾”long which we drill into the end plate and once the height is set the track is soldered to the head of the screw. On the off chance that there is a small track alignment problem, a quick touch with the soldering iron cures all.
Note: the top track has yet to be soldered and the rails on both need trimming.

All the above is done with the eye to be able to set up and dismantle the modules at shows with the minimum of effort.

However as your modules do not have to fit that criteria, you could clamp the modules together and then drill through both and fit a dowel, as well as using the bolts. At the club I used to belong to, we had made a portable layout and used 3/8” wooden dowel s, and bolts, which worked well for some years, but with a change of club personnel, and with careless handling, the dowels got broken. That layout has recently been refurbished and I see they have now used about a 3/4” broom handle for the dowels. Hopefully idiot proof!!! Having helped them dismantle and set it up for the first time I would suggest that a liberal amount of candle wax be applied to the dowel s and mating holes.
Cheers, the Bear.
P.S. Like a lot of things in model railroading there is NO absolute right way!!!

Thanks Bear, that all makes sense. I'm setting up a couple of modules tonight and will sit back with a jack and coke to mull it over.