08-22-2015, 08:41 PM
Whether you're placing or adding ground cover or ballasting track, do so with the material dry, arranging it as necessary using a soft brush. Once you have it to your liking, use a good-quality sprayer to soak the area with wet water (ordinary tap water to which a few drops of dish detergent has been added). If your area has hard water, use distilled water, readily available at most supermarkets, or use the water collected in your dehumudifier (clean the collecting bucket beforehand 
). A more expensive alternative would be to use 70% alcohol, which should also be further diluted, but don't use your crappy hard water here, either.
Aim the first few spritzes upward, letting the mist fall so as to not disturb the light material, then, once it's dampened, you can spray more directly. Don't skimp on the wetting, as this is what ensures that the dilute glue mixture will penetrate right down to the solid base of your scenery - otherwise, the material will float in the glue or the glue will dry as a crust, with the material beneath it still loose.
Don't waste money on Scenic Cement - ordinary white glue, diluted about 50/50 with water, works just fine and is a lot cheaper - if you're doing lots of scenery or ballasting, buy it by the gallon, as it's even cheaper. You can use an eye-dropper to apply it, but a larger container which allows application by-the-drop makes the job faster and easier - try ketchup or mustard squeeze bottles (don't squeeze 'em....you only need the glue mixture to come out as drops). As the drops hit the pre-wetted material, you'll see how readily the glue spreads and is absorbed into it. Do not touch it while it's wet, either with the dropper applicator or your fingers. Depending on the depth of the material, it may take several days to dry - there should be plenty of other things you can do while that's happening.
Once the glue has dried, there should be no loose scenic material lying about, and the sceniced area should be solid enough that it will withstand careful vacuuming when it eventually begins to gather dust. This characteristic is especially helpful on ballasted track, as controlling dust accumulation on the tracks will cut down on your track cleaning chores....I clean track only after ballasting or applying scenic material near the track, then vacuum it every year or two (or three
).
If you wish to add more scenic material, either immediately of the first application has dried or even years later, simply repeat the steps as outlined.
Wayne
). A more expensive alternative would be to use 70% alcohol, which should also be further diluted, but don't use your crappy hard water here, either.Aim the first few spritzes upward, letting the mist fall so as to not disturb the light material, then, once it's dampened, you can spray more directly. Don't skimp on the wetting, as this is what ensures that the dilute glue mixture will penetrate right down to the solid base of your scenery - otherwise, the material will float in the glue or the glue will dry as a crust, with the material beneath it still loose.
Don't waste money on Scenic Cement - ordinary white glue, diluted about 50/50 with water, works just fine and is a lot cheaper - if you're doing lots of scenery or ballasting, buy it by the gallon, as it's even cheaper. You can use an eye-dropper to apply it, but a larger container which allows application by-the-drop makes the job faster and easier - try ketchup or mustard squeeze bottles (don't squeeze 'em....you only need the glue mixture to come out as drops). As the drops hit the pre-wetted material, you'll see how readily the glue spreads and is absorbed into it. Do not touch it while it's wet, either with the dropper applicator or your fingers. Depending on the depth of the material, it may take several days to dry - there should be plenty of other things you can do while that's happening.
Once the glue has dried, there should be no loose scenic material lying about, and the sceniced area should be solid enough that it will withstand careful vacuuming when it eventually begins to gather dust. This characteristic is especially helpful on ballasted track, as controlling dust accumulation on the tracks will cut down on your track cleaning chores....I clean track only after ballasting or applying scenic material near the track, then vacuum it every year or two (or three
).If you wish to add more scenic material, either immediately of the first application has dried or even years later, simply repeat the steps as outlined.
Wayne