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Loads more by the same guy (Tomkat) here - worth doing a search for subject = Signs and author =Tomkat too
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Worked on a second building fitting in a unique shaped lot.
The fronts are quite easy (virtually invisible from the layout front
, I prefer to proceed with fronts grabbed from Chicago buildings) but I have to find some/many details to beef up the long rear and side walls. The rear walls of the new building are covered with printed brick walls made with Photoshop from small downloaded patches of old bricks.
Ground cover must be applied carefully because the long building must be removable. It sits where I grab the segment when the door must be opened, cleaned etc.
Reinhard
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looking good Reinhard :-)
Be sure to visit my model railroad blog at <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.namrr.blogspot.com">http://www.namrr.blogspot.com</a><!-- m -->
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Spend some time adding details and weathering to the rear and side walls. The rear section of the long building got a different texture and roof.
Reinhard
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The buildings covered with Inkjet printed patterns got three layers of dull coat protection before they were integrated into the ground cover with mist, water and white glue. It worked fine on this wall
and failed on this one
The other problem is that the building should/must be removable. It resides where I grab the segment when it is moved. I intended to "break" it off the ground tomorrow when the glue has set as I do it other removable buildings made from pure styrene. The ruined Inkjet paint is a sign that the white glue is not stopped on top of the dull coat but got into the paper too. I am afraid there will be severe damage when I try to remove the building tomorrow.
Reinhard
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Steve Wrote:Live and learn .....
How true, how true
The paper of the walls is glued like concrete to the ground cover. I would cause serious damage if I remove the building.
However, next removal is likely in spring when the windows need to be cleaned or in summer when the window frames may need new paint.
I decided to do nothing! There is a good chance the building in question has been replaced due to some layout rework until spring or summer. In any case can I try to grab the segment with the building in place just risking some damage.
ps. The most offending wall got some high grass to cover the worst damaged paint.
Reinhard
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faraway Wrote:Steve Wrote:Live and learn .....
ps. The most offending wall got some high grass to cover the worst damaged paint.
That's what I would have done too :-)
Koos
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shortliner Wrote:Loads more by the same guy (Tomkat) here - worth doing a search for subject = Signs and author =Tomkat too
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?128328-Paper-and-Card-Structures">http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/sho ... Structures</a><!-- m -->
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?112211-Background-Buildings">http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/sho ... -Buildings</a><!-- m -->
I've also seen he does a lot of signs etc, but they are all aimed at the 'transition era'.
Does anyone know a good source for more modern adds and logos, such as the 1980's till today?
I know I can collect some of it through google street view etc, but sheets like these provided by 'tomkat' are much easier to work with, I also don't have any photo editing software that could help sorting out perspective or other issues with photos.
Thanks!
Koos
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Koos, You can download Gimp 2.0 to help correct perspective, its free and arguably as good as that other program that costs you lots and lots.
I find that google images or flickr can be a treasure trove for images of signs. This electoral sign was created by just cropping from a photo on flickr, it was actually rail side just where I have it Miami! <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://dlmr.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/tvnam69.jpg?w=700&h=">http://dlmr.files.wordpress.com/2012/12 ... g?w=700&h=</a><!-- m --> I know its easier to do with small signs, but it can be done on much larger images too.
Dave
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Thanks Dave,
I'll have a look at Gimp for my use. Thanks for the tip.
Koos
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Reinhard, would you be able to build a short foundation wall from styrene that matches the footprint of the paper buildings? You could put that in place when you do your ground cover and replace it with the paper building when the scenery is dry.
The printed walls and the way you have matched them looks very good. Well done as usual.
P.S. What did you use for the chain-link fence?
John
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John, the fence is part #93405 from Micron Art. I bought mine from Walthers.
"Funny" thing is that the building is made of styrene and got a paper "wallpaper". I could have set the blank styrene structure into the ground cover with glue etc., remove it easily the next day and add the wallpaper .....
The other thing I forgot to do is putting a little bit of oil at the low end of the walls. I did that sometimes when a styrene building has a very rough paint that might stuck to good to white glue.
Reinhard
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Reinhard,
When you say you gave it three coats of dullcoat protection, is this a inkjet fixative or just dullcoat? One thing Ive been doing is to set the building and then border it with small square strips of plastic, usually 2.5mm square rod or 2.5 x 3.2mm strips. When adding grass, I add grass up to the border and stop. Any adhesive from adding scenic materials stops at the border and does not seep under. If you paint it concrete gray or gray it takes on the look of structure foundation.
Also the border strips hide any gaps that may exist between the ground and structure.
Larry
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MB Klein and at least one seller in eBay offer the new Atlas Gensets with dynamic breaks. Trainworld lists them as still backorder to be expected in 2.nd quarter. Placed an order anyhow and hope Trainworld will get their batch as MB Klein did within the next days and ship via DHL express within 48 hours.
Until than my "old" Gensets are on duty
A confessed Genset lover
Reinhard