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When I built my first modular layout, I had one place where I had to place a turnout right at the joint between two modules. Unfortunately I have no photos of that turnout, but....I was able to mount the turnout, and its motor on a short piece of 1/8" Masonite, which bridged the joint (with some strategically placed supports), and was "dry scenery'd " at each end. Through the several moves, before the layout was scrapped, I had no problems with the operation of that turnout.
I might think more than twice about doing that on a more repeatedly moved module, but at the once every three years rate it was fine.
We always learn far more from our own mistakes, than we will ever learn from another's advice.
The greatest place to live life, is on the sharp leading edge of a learning curve.
Lead me not into temptation.....I can find it myself!
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Thanks for the tip!
With <!-- w --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.hotrak.ca">www.hotrak.ca</a><!-- w --> modules, which are set-up and taken down every 6 weeks or so, the standards preclude having a turnout within 6 inches of the end of a module. Also, the module track must terminate 3 inches from the end, using a 3 inch piece of snap track for "robustness".
Andrew
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The Lake County Society of Modular Engineers, uses a 5" piece of flex track to join modules. The set back for the permanent track is 2-1/2", on each module.
Any "permanent" (spiked and ballasted) track is structurally stable, so, as long as a switch machine can "function" in the limited space, there's no problem with having a turnout start right at the 2.5" line.
The Masonite mounted turnout, also had the switch machine mounted underneath, which is why the supports had to be "strategically placed". The electrical connections ran through a multi pin connector.
Things like this turnout should have custom built containers, to keep them safe when being moved to and from setups.....(lesson learned the hard way. :oops: )
We always learn far more from our own mistakes, than we will ever learn from another's advice.
The greatest place to live life, is on the sharp leading edge of a learning curve.
Lead me not into temptation.....I can find it myself!
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Our joiner tracks are (most often) a 6" piece of snap track, either Code 100 (conventional modules) or Code 83 (free-mo style). We also have some custom joiners (usually curved track or other "specialty" application). These usually remain with their respective module sets, sometimes in a special storage compartment built under one of the modules.
Andrew
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I don't think about cutting a turnout. I've done it a few times. You should not cut the points nor the frog.
Wolfgang
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WT fan Wrote:I don't think about cutting a turnout. I've done it a few times. You should not cut the points nor the frog.
Wolfgang
That must be at your third street switching area, with the underpass off to the right of the picture?
So you just glue down the turnout and cut it with dremmel tool or some such thing?
Smile,
Stein
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Yes, that's the way I do it. I cut the rails with the fine Roco saw. You see pictues
here.
Wolfgang
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WT fan Wrote:Yes, that's the way I do it. I cut the rails with the fine Roco saw. You see pictues here.
Wolfgang
Hi all, the Roco saw he's referring to, is for sale under the Atlas brand in the US and other places. see : <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/product-p/atl-400.htm">http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/product-p/atl-400.htm</a><!-- m --> for example.
They used to (perhaps still do) work together on a variety of items. Roco used to produce models for Atlas too (perhaps still do). One of the best manufacturers of modelrailroad equipment (locos and rolling stock) around, highly detailed and superbly engineered etc. Unfortunately nowadays a much smaller catalog than they used to have (they went bust a couple of years ago, and now under new owners , who also own the also bankrupted Fleischmann) Of course mostly if not all models now are European based.
Be sure to visit my model railroad blog at <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.namrr.blogspot.com">http://www.namrr.blogspot.com</a><!-- m -->