Here is some of the pilings that I have maid. They are all 1/8 inch dowels distressed and stained with Min wax touch up stain marker. Some were tied together with regular sewing tread.
Thease will line the edge of the retaining wall.
I used the same system for a group of pilings that will protect the side of the apron from the occasional impact from a drifting barge.
My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew
At this point the head house is attached and counter weights hung. Now It's starting to look like something.You can see there is a difference in the thickness of the concrete pads that support the truss. That is so the hole structure sits level. We'll see what I get to tomorrow.
My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew
Today I wired the bridge. I pulled the rail off some code 83 flex , bent it to shape, soldered a lead to it , and glued it down with some super glue CA. Walthers supplies you with a set of code 83 switch points that fit on the bridge, one set of rails have to be notched to except them.
Here you can see the splice for both sets of rail and the hold down pins .
I left the rail on the layout side of the bridge a little long so that I could cut them into the switch that is mounted off the bridge.I have to look and see if I can find some realy thin wood to make a new deck, I realy don't like the plastic one on the kit.
My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew
Firstly, awesome work. Very well thought out and it's clear you have a good idea of what you want it to look like before you get too far into the project.
Secondly, I just saw an article in either June or July MR, I think it was by Lou Sassi, about painting and weathering a flat car deck (On30) to better resemble aged wood. May be worth a look to see if paint and chalk can do what you want before resorting to a veneer to replace what's there.
Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
Thanks guys. I know the article your talking about ocalicreek. I want to cover it more because all (or most, Can't remember) the pics I've seen have the planking running at a right angle to the track, not parallel like the model. And It's more of a general idea of the finished product, I keep changing my mind. Upnick, that's where I'm headed tomorrow.
Today I started on the rip raft and gave the apron another test fit for the photo.
My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew
Next it was on to the decking. First I stained some thin wood (I think it's pine) with a water base product called Craftsman's Blend. It's a walnut color that resembles creosote. I stained both sides to help reduce the chance of warping, covered them in a layer of wax paper and placed them between 2 books to dry over night.the next day I started to cut the wood into strips using a Dupli-Cutter.I just used the same measurement of the plastic planks on the bridge.
I then stained the cut edges and glued them in place leaving a small gap in between each plank using some CA.
This will eventually cover the whole bridge.I kept checking the rail clearance with a spare truck as I went along, making adjustments where necessary.
My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew
e-paw, I think relaying the planking as you are doing is really going to take this model up and over the top! It's hard to beat the look of real wood, especially on a nice foreground model like this where it may be scrutinized by discerning viewers. Good call!
Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
Thanks every one. The planking is coming along, I've got about 4 to 5 hours invested in that part of the bash and I'm 85% finished :o. I'll be happy to move on to another part.
My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew