Glueing track down?

[KevinKrey]

Im pretty sure this topic has been beaten like a dead horse, but I am still confused. Ive heard from people who do and some who dont and am unsure what the best thing to do is. A lot of people say just just track spicks, or nails, while others say it needs glue. Im using mostly flextrack, and want to know what everybody says. Do I glue the track down or not?

[yellowlynn]

It may depend what you are laying it on. Whatever, I like silicon caulking. A small bead, spread a bit, and held in place 20-30 minutes, and voila! Also, to take it up, an old knife will pop it loose. I'm too old for new-fangled ways, and this works good for me.

Lynn

[Steamtrains]

That works for me too....over cork. Make sure you spread it thin with a spatula so it doesn't squeeze up between the ties. I usually let it set overnight before I mess with it....

[nachoman]

Personally, I don't like the the look of the spikes in the middle of the ties. If you spike next to the rail, that's much better. The track will be glued anyway when you ballast, and the spikes can then be removed. I haven't spiked prefab track in years. I have usually used yellw carpenter's glue. The problem is, sometimes the glue re-softens when I ballast, so I need to be careful that the track doesn't shift. Latex caulk is probably a better alternative because it won't re-soften when you ballast. Make sure you use latex caulk and not silicone caulk, though. The silicone seems to be impervious to paint and glue, and may keep your ballast from sticking properly.

[TrainNut]

Not. I use flex track nailed through cork glued with Elmers white glue into blue foam. Never had a problem yet. For me, the final step of ballasting cements everything into place.

[BR60103]

I almost never ballast my track; the last time I did we immediately sold the house and moved.
Mine is all spiked down (except one extension bit). I try to spike outside the rail -- I'm spiking directly into Homasote. I have a few places where the spikes work out and rise above the railhead.

[BR60103]

Kevin:
There are eight and forty ways/To recite the tribal lays/and every single one of them is right. (Kipling, approx)
We all have our pet ways of doing things that we have developed over the years. If it works for you then it's right for you.

[doctorwayne]

I prefer to spike the track in place - I use Atlas code 83, with spike holes at mid-tie, although you have to open the ones you wish to use from the underside. In general viewing, the spikes aren't all that noticeable...


...although they are in some photos :oops:


You can remove the spikes after ballasting, as the secured ballast will hold the tracks in place - I didn't bother. The reason that I prefer spikes is that, until you ballast, the track can be easily adjusted, or, if necessary, moved or even removed. This is important if your track becomes misaligned as it adjusts to your layout area, and as trains are run over it. I left mine un-ballasted for several months as I made adjustments - mostly minor, but I did remove a crossover which proved un-needed.

Wayne

[ocalicreek]

My grandfather used flat headed spikes/tacks/nails painted black to match the ties, tacked in the holes downt the center. Over tacking, bending the tie gave it away, but that creates problems with gauge anyway. He didn't balast, but painted the base below the track gray. He didn't use roadbed, but was able to fool a friend who could not for the life of him figure out how that track was held down, and didn't realize there wasn't balast until he looked closely. Worked for him.

I've painted tack heads ever since, and fooled freinds as well (who went home and painted theirs black too!)

Galen

[MountainMan]

With some types of sectional track, a single spot of hot glue every six inches in more than enough, and makes it very easy to remove and rebuild sections of layout. Whatever you do, leave some expansion room, though.

[LynnB]

The only time I glue down the track is if its going on foam board otherwise I use the centre hole in the ties and let the ballast do the rest.

[Sumpter250]

The reason that I prefer spikes is that, until you ballast, the track can be easily adjusted, or, if necessary, moved or even removed. This is important if your track becomes misaligned as it adjusts to your layout area, and as trains are run over it. I left mine un-ballasted for several months as I made adjustments - mostly minor, but I did remove a crossover which proved un-needed.
Wayne

The primary benefit of spiking, is the ability to make adjustments.
Once I reach the point where I can start a train running, walk away and come back after a few hours to find the train still running, I can begin ballasting, which makes the track position permanent.
The problem with "adjustments after gluing" is that in most cases, when removing even a small section of track, the sub roadbed can be damaged, which can result in a new problem at that location.
I'm getting old, and the techniques that have served me well all the years, have become "comfortable", so I'm not particularly amenable to learning new techniques to replace the comfortable ones. Gluing/spiking, each has its own "goods and evils". Choose what's "comfortable for you", and stick with it.(no pun intended)