A few boxcar upgrades...

[Sumpter250]

After all that, what more can I say! Very nicely done! One question, on the modified drop step, did you use a micro torch, soldering pencil, or resistance soldering unit, to solder in the added step?
For detail like that I usually use a micro butane torch (used to use an alcohol torch, until it got broken by movers), I use a 15 watt pencil for most of that now.
I've figured out how to hold all the pieces in place while applying heat....
mini clothes pins reshaped as micro spring clamps.

[doctorwayne]

Thanks to all for the kind words.

One question, on the modified drop step, did you use a micro torch, soldering pencil, or resistance soldering unit, to solder in the added step?
For detail like that I usually use a micro butane torch (used to use an alcohol torch, until it got broken by movers), I use a 15 watt pencil for most of that now.
I've figured out how to hold all the pieces in place while applying heat....
mini clothes pins reshaped as micro spring clamps.

Pete, for all of the soldering on these cars, I used a 25 watt pencil-type iron. The extra step was added to the stock A-Line step by first cleaning the step with 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper. I also dragged the strip of .010"x.030" brass through the paper to remove any dirt and oxidation. The six steps were pinned to a sheet of 1/4" balsa, using dressmakers pins, then, by trial and error, I made one of the steps to be added. After straightening out the bends at both ends, and working on a sheet of glass, I used an old X-Acto blade to cut six similar lengths from the barstock, bending them "by-eye" to fit. After pinning them in place, I applied a minute amount of resin flux to each joint, then touched one joint on each step with the "wet" iron. I then placed a small wad of wet tissue over each soldered joint, and repeated the process for the other end of the step.
The grabirons on the end tackboard straps were installed the same way, after the straps had been installed on the cars - wads of wet tissue were placed over both ends of both straps, where the mounting pins had been soldered in place, then the cleaned, pre-bent, and trimmed grabiron was inserted into pre-drilled holes in the straps. A little flux, and a couple of quick touches of a "wet" iron secured the grabs in place.

For small numbers of assemblies, the balsa-wood-with-pins option is an easy way to hold parts while they're being soldered. For jobs where lots of similar assemblies are required, though, it makes sense to build a more permanent jig of some sort. I have one for doing double steps (in three different widths) on headend cars:


...and another for doing roofwalk corner grabs:


...and even one for doing the bars for RPO windows:


...plus, of course several for bending handrails and grabirons, and for making built-up ladders for locos and cabooses. The ones used for soldering are made from hardwood blocks, glued together and drilled as required, while bending jigs can be wood, metal, or plastic, depending on the job and the material being used.

Wayne

[jim currie]

box looks great Doc on a side note if you ever try a restance tool you would fall in love with (I did) .
jim

[tetters]

WOW! Very nice!

[cnw1961]

I just found this thread ... I am glad that I did not miss these beauties. Wayne, you did an amazing job!

[Herc Driver]

Inspiring job! Well done.

[doctorwayne]

Once again, thank you all for the kind words.

Wayne

[Sumpter250]

Thanks to all for the kind words. a 25 watt pencil-type iron. cleaning the step with 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper. The steps were pinned to a sheet of 1/4" balsa, using dressmakers pins. After pinning, I applied a minute amount of resin flux to each joint, then touched one joint on each step with the "wet" iron. I then placed a small wad of wet tissue over each soldered joint, and repeated the process.
For small numbers of assemblies, the balsa-wood-with-pins option is an easy way to hold parts while they're being soldered. For jobs where lots of similar assemblies are required, though, it makes sense to build a more permanent jig of some sort. The ones used for soldering are made from hardwood blocks, glued together and drilled as required, while bending jigs can be wood, metal, or plastic, depending on the job and the material being used.
Wayne

It is amazing what can be worked out with a "pencil"...(the full tutorial is in Wayne's post above)
The trick here is the use of flux to transfer heat to the piece being soldered, and the use of water (in the tissue wad) to act as a heat sink to keep the solder in that joint from melting as the next joint is soldered.
The designing, and building of assembly jigs, is another art altogether, and one that is worth looking in to. Very useful things, jigs.
Thank you for that response Wayne.

[foulrift]

Wayne-Those are the most fantastic looking freight cars I have ever seen.Your modeling talents are amazing.
Bob