The Union Pacific Elmwood Route

[nolatron]

Why is the top up on risers? Why not just down on the framing? On the plan it seems like you only have one section to be cut out for a river...the rest seems to be flat. Is there a reason I'm not seeing?

Galen

The river yes, but I also want to contour the terrain along the scenic to go below grade a little bit too at spots. Having the top on the risers also helps with mounting tortoises and other under-bench hardware as there's no cable ways or crossbeams to get in the way.

[nolatron]

Here's a rough look at how the track plan looks in real life. I printed out the plan at 1:1 scale from RailModeller, trimmed the sheets and placed it all on the benchwork. I'll go back and trim up a few sheets I missed, and then tape it all together for a better fit. But it really does give you a nice, real look at how the layout will look on the bench.



When the cleaned up plan is in place I'll use that to mark the location of the backdrop and track. I'll also use it to place structures on to see if they can fit and how'd they look. It's almost like bringing the track planning from software to real world at this point.

[ocalicreek]

The river yes, but I also want to contour the terrain along the scenic to go below grade a little bit too at spots. Having the top on the risers also helps with mounting tortoises and other under-bench hardware as there's no cable ways or crossbeams to get in the way.

Having space to mount the tortoises makes sense, as does the scenic contouring. It just appeared to be a bit excess (like L-girder for a flat-top layout :geek: :| ) I like the look of the full-size printout.

Galen

[Gary S]

Shaun, it is really taking shape. That is some excellent carpentry. Everything looks clean and tight.

[nolatron]

Once I've fallen behind on keeping my gauge friends updated on the layout.

So let's catch up!

After getting the trackplan all laid on the benchwork, it was time to cut out the river path in the benchtop with the jig-saw.



Next step will be to add some shorter risers and then re-install the cut-out portion to be the river base.

Then I started adding the supports for the backdrop. I'm 10" tall 1x2 supports (cut from a 48" stick) mounted with 2 "L" brackets. I added a some wood glue underneath too for a little added grip.

[nolatron]

One of the downsides to building a layout like this is the lack of a overhead valance for lighting, like I had on the old shelf layout. Technically, you could build up the center supports and backdrop to be taller to support one, but I was trying to keep the height down to 24 or so for portability.

I already had a bunch of T4 fluorescent fixtures, so I wanted to reuse those. I also didn't want get to crazy with mounting them because this house is a leased house. I try not to put *too* many holes in the walls and ceilings.

Since the garage door will rarely be opened, I came up with a simple plan: Use the garage door tracks. I simply laid two 48 fixtures in each track and secured them in with a velcro strap, and then two more at the front of the garage mounted to wall. A single switch (not shown) turns them on.

With this setup, if I ever do need to open the door, I can easily pull down the lights from the track and open it. The wall mounted ones are clear of the door and can stay up. I have about few more fixtures so I could even double up the lights to increase the output maybe.

I tried to take a before and after shot with the camera but it really didn't show a difference, but in person the lights really do help light up the front the garage (the other side is lit by the main ceiling fluorescent fixture).

While it won't be the awesome direct above the track lighting I had before, I think this is will get the job done.

[nolatron]

Then it was back to the backdrop. I attached the first part of the backdrop to the supports. This sheet (plus another 19 from another sheet) were installed with the glossy side facing the Marigny River side. A 2nd sheet will be laminated with its' glossy side facing the Elmwood side.
Once done attaching to the supports, it was pretty sturdy and not going anywhere.



The next step was to laminate the second sheet, and I started that this morning. I used a small paint roller brush to apply Gorilla Wood Glue to an entire 8'x1' section, and then clamped it in place. I used 1x2 garden stakes for some bracing, and small nails to push the bottom of the brace into the backdrop (like the MRR project did).


I'll let this sit for a good 24-48 hours at least before removing the clamps.

[nolatron]

With the backdrop almost done, I began working on the next phase of the layout; laying down roadbed.

The first thing I needed to do was transfer the trackplan to the plywood. I decided on a rather simple (but kinda tedious) method of basically hole-punching the center line into the plywood.

Using a scratching awl, which is almost like a giant ice pick with a tiny, pointy end, I simply poked holes through the track plan paper on the centerline of the outer track every inch or so (little further apart on straights). This resulted in a dotted pattern on the plywood I could to line the roadbed center too. I only did the outer track because the inner track roadbed will simply butt up against the outter track roadbed.


Here's a look at the first strip of roadbed glued down on the Elmwood side. I used wood glue to secure the cork down. It's actually quite tacky and held the cork in shape even on the curves without much assistance.

[nolatron]

Here's the the Car Shop kit I finished up Sunday evening (minus decals).



The brick walls were painted Roof Brown, the doors and support beams are Stainless Steel, the windows are Pullman Green, the roof is Grimy Black, and the floor is Concrete.

The rail is Micro Engineering Code 55 weather rail. Got it from some extra pieces of concrete flex I had left over from the old layout.

All caught up now! I'm continuing work on laying down roadbed, so I need to grab a few progress shots of that. But everything has been rolling along smoothly.

[tetters]

Looks great Shaun.

[nolatron]

Today I completed the mainline roadbed on the layout:



One thing I've read several times online by other modelers is the how overly wide the cork roadbed is, and I think I agree. Having the roadbed beveled right at the edge of ties seems to give you a cleaner, more prototypical looking ballast line. So once I get track curves shaped, I'll mark the tie edges on the cork and trim the edges to narrow the roadbed.

Just a peak at the concrete tie flex track as I'm shaping it out to the curves. This is where the Micro Engineering track shines.



The markings next to the roadbed are guides for masking tape that'll be used to super-elevate the track.

[Jesso]

Looking good! Can't wait to see more!

[nolatron]

Painted the backdrop using Valspar 4007-10A "Skyscape".

[nolatron]

Finished up the track for the double track truss bridge. Since the track is going to be permanent inside the bridge once installed on the layout, I went ahead and did some weathering on the track now.



After assembling the track with guard rails and side rails, I spray painted the whole thing Rail Brown. After that dried, I went back over the ties with a Floquil Rail Tie Brown pen and then finished up by cleaning the top of the rail with a brightboy. Turned out pretty well. Using the paint pens made painting the ties a breeze.

[nolatron]

A bit of progress report on the layout.

Things began rolling along will installing the bridge piers and get that all situated. I first painted the abutments with a wash of Woodland Scenic slate paint, and then used some styrene pieces to raise the bridge up to the benchwork top.



And then I noticed something....not good. Even though the bridge was even with the benchwork on both sides, it wasn't level. Something was wrong.. really wrong.

It appears I have what looks like a slight bulge in my benchwork. On the Elmwood side you can see it (how I missed it so far I have no idea), but it's not that big a deal. It actually adds a little natural looking hill in the benchwork. But on the river side, the river is cut right almost at the apex of the bulge, so I ended up with river banks at two different levels.

How much of difference?



It looks worse that it really is though. A little extra cork, a Woodland Scenic riser and then all will be well. Just a little added work, though I guess I'm just more annoyed that I didn't see this a long time ago.

So anyway.... I wasn't going to let this stop progress. Today I began securing in the first sections of the track.



I began at the bridge and worked westward, installing the switch and junction line. I'm using Latex Caulk w/Silicone for securing the track in place.