Fluesheet's Shelf Layout

[Fluesheet]

I recently made a push to get the shelf layout off of it's temporary workbench in the middle of the basement and back to it's home on it's shelf.

The work entailed:
- Ballasting all of the remaining trackwork except Sedam Lumber and Tool (I may use a different treatment here - concrete)
- Touch up of painted rail, ties and tie plates
- Added cinder pile car stop (this was just the right size to derail cars effectively, but not stop them! It has since grown larger)



I used Woodland Scenics Scenic Cement for the first time during this ballasting phase. Comparisons:
- To diluted white glue:

• Easier to prepare (ready to go - the viscosity is correct)
  More expensive.
  Has a more flexible bond than white glue; this may make it more rugged over the long haul, especially if the layout is moved a lot
  Seems to wick about the same as diluted white glue with a drop of dish detergent in it

- To Acrylic Floor wax

• Bond is not as solid (Acrylic floor wax is the big man on campus as far as outright holding power is concerned). However, the bond is more flexible.
  Leaves no waxy spots on plastic ties

- To Matte Medium

• Leaves no residue
  Requires no dilution
  Same bonding notes as above

After I mounted the layout on the brackets, I decided to create some hand holds that I'd been contemplating for a while. As it stands, the layout is somewhat difficult to move around - it's clumsy. The fascia is strong enough to lift with, but it's not a comfortable way to carry it and since it's so deep, I can't get a thumb up on the Homasote surface, which compromises control. On the backside, the Homasote extends about 1/2" beyond the plywood base - this isn't bad, but is also makes a somewhat clumsy hold. Plus it's only a matter of time before the cantilevered Homasote fails.

For the front, I started by gluing a 1x3 (approximately) to the back side of the fascia. This also bears directly against the bottom of the plywood sub roadbed, so the lift is not transmitted through the fascia.

I started by finding and marking the center of balance of the layout, then drilled two 1" holes with a spade bit 4 1/2" apart (centered on the balance mark) and about 7/8" from the base of the fascia. This leaves the bottom of the "girder" formed by the fascia (and 1x3) intact, creates a comfortable-sized hole for my hand and leaves enough finger room on the inside for a comfortable lift. The two holes were connected with a sabre saw. Impressively, very little of ballast was shaken off - and the layout was shaking like a paint mixer! The interior of the hole was later finished off with a file and sandpaper:



Next I cut the notch on the backside. This was straightforward work with a utility knife:



The result is a nicely balanced shelf that is MUCH easier to mount and dismount from the wall. I'm very happy with the result.



End result:



If you want to see bigger images of anything I post to Zenfolio, change the last digit of the url to 4, 5 or 6 - or remove the -3 altogether for the original sized image.

The entire gallery of the build is here:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://goodman312.zenfolio.com/p802892396">http://goodman312.zenfolio.com/p802892396</a><!-- m -->

Next, troubleshooting some unexpected issues with the turnouts.

[Tyson Rayles]

Always good to see progress!

[sailormatlac]

That ballast is looking great. I never thought about using acrylic floor wax (is it Future?) as ballast bonding agent. If I'm not wrong, that would make life easier when you need to work the track work again: just need to use a little ammonia (windex) to dissolve the acrylic floor finish.

Matt

[Fluesheet]

That ballast is looking great. I never thought about using acrylic floor wax (is it Future?) as ballast bonding agent. If I'm not wrong, that would make life easier when you need to work the track work again: just need to use a little ammonia (windex) to dissolve the acrylic floor finish.

HI Matt,

Thanks for the comment on the ballast; I'm generally happy with it as well - I'm very happy with the look, though it remains difficult to wet.

You're right about the acryllic wax - it is Future (Future by Pledge is what it's called now). I learned about this application in the British model railroading magazine "Hornby's". I have some more comments on it, and ballasting thoughts in general, a few pages back (page 6 the way I have the forum set up).

[shortliner]

Matt - my, how this is coming along! Looking better than I ever would have thought for a fairly simple switching design
Best
Jack

[Fluesheet]

Matt - my, how this is coming along! Looking better than I ever would have thought for a fairly simple switching design
Best
Jack

Thanks Jack; your input into the design is still much appreciated.

I have two videos up of the layout that I shot last night:
Overview: Shows the track arrangement, lighting and a video run-by. 3:14.
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmiCe_-tgsE">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmiCe_-tgsE</a><!-- m -->

Inaugural run: Part of the first video I took after I mounted the shelf and had it running. Complete with under-my-breath epithets when I run through not one, but two turnouts thrown against me... Also has a section of Sergent Couplers in action (a topic for a future post). About seven minutes long:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFSWek0AW60">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFSWek0AW60</a><!-- m -->

Video is a pain, but fun to watch after the fact!

[faraway]

I love the videos! It is great to watch you switching slowly A fine example what you can do with a small layout!

[Harry]

I love the videos! It is great to watch you switching slowly A fine example what you can do with a small layout!

[Fluesheet]

I love the videos! It is great to watch you switching slowly A fine example what you can do with a small layout!

Thanks for the comments! I've found that my camera doesn't focus close enough to get good detail video (of the Sergents, for example), though cheap macro lenses are available. The iPhone takes great up close video, but is (as you would expect) shakier.

On a slight tangent, I was recently awarded a "Bertie" for best listener submitted item by the listeners of the Model Rail Radio Podcast. Tin Goat of this forum nominated me (for this thread). The next recording of the live show is this coming Saturday - please join! You'll need a Skype account and instructions for joining are here:

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://modelrailradio.com/">http://modelrailradio.com/</a><!-- m -->

That's me third picture down, and one of those awards in the first picture now resides on my workbench! Very cool. This forum has created an environment that makes it easy to share, and perhaps more importantly, honest criticism is given - this shelf layout would have been a LOT worse with out some straight forward comments by some members while I was designing it! (different thread)

Take care,

[Len Turner]

Matt,
I am enjoying this thread immensely! These two videos were fun to watch as were your others. I've always been into still photography although all my digital cameras have video capability. I think you've inspired me to start experimenting with a bit of video.

Your shelf layout is coming along superbly and congratulations on your Bertie!

[Steamtrains]

Great videos....Love that li'l 0-6-0, gotta get me one....
What's with the couplers..?? Seems like a lot of fuzz to get them open and closed....

[Fluesheet]

Great videos....Love that li'l 0-6-0, gotta get me one....
What's with the couplers..?? Seems like a lot of fuzz to get them open and closed....

True enough - I'm finding both the Kadees and Sergents have there strong and weak points. The Kadees are consistently easier to couple (assuming that the springs are set up correctly so that the couplers are centered) - due to the fact they are self centering and so need less fuss less of the time to get them to couple. If they are lined up, the couple as easy or easier than Kadees (The Sergents aren't self centering). The Sergents, on the other hand, are consistently easier to uncouple in my experience.

There are a bunch of caveats to both of them, but that's fodder for another thread once I get a test plan put together so both trains go through the same movements.

Love the 0-6-0's myself; the GM&O has a QSI sound decoder in it, the NYC started as a DC only locomotive that I installed a Soundtraxx Tsunami decoder into (need to put a thread up on that). The Soundtraxx has better sound and better motor control - the QSI is missing a level of polish on both, and especially on low speed motor control. Neither are as good as my 10 year old Zimo motor-only decoders. Soundwise, the QSI has one advantage - it's exhaust is properly synchronized (and the CV and scale speed read back is pretty helpful, though not at all prototypical!)

OK, enough tangents for one post!